Ballast How best to get WWF in tires, by the gallon

[Midniteoyl]

So, I found -20 WWF for $1.50gal and bought 124gal to refill my tires. This saved me anywhere from $100 to $225 over buying it in 55gal drums. However, I now realize that I have no idea on how to get the WWF into the tires

I need to get fluid back in as I recently found that they were filled with plain water, then one was drained, and the other was partially drained (or never fully filled) prior to my owning it, leading to rusting of the rims. As I dont have the ~$1000 to purchase tires and rims at the moment, I figure refilling will hold off further rusting until I can.

So, anyone have a good, cheap, way to fill the tires through the valve stem from gallon jugs? Can I use a cheap 12v transfer pump such as this one? Amazon.com: ABN 12 Volt Oil Fluid Diesel Extraction Pump 8 Amp 1 Watt: Automotive or even Amazon.com: Amarine-made 12v Diesel Biodiesel Kerosene Pumpcast Fuel Oil Transfer Pump 175w 11gpm: Automotive ?

Any ideas or comments appreciated..

 

[Henro]

I used a cheap pump that cost several dollars and was driven by an electric drill. It worked fine.

Put the valve stem at the top Position and pump the fluid in from a 5 gallon bucket. Stop occasionally and release the air pressure from the valve stem and then continue. When you reach the point where the fluid comes back out of the valve, rather than just air, that is the time to stop.

Years ago, probably 12 years ago, I posted a thread here with pictures showing how I did it. Good luck finding it though ...

Actually very easy to do this.

Bill

 

[k0ua]

I used a cheap pump that cost several dollars and was driven by an electric drill. It worked fine.

Put the valve stem at the top Position and pump the fluid in from a 5 gallon bucket. Stop occasionally and release the air pressure from the valve stem and then continue. When you reach the point where the fluid comes back out of the valve, rather than just air, that is the time to stop.

Years ago, probably 12 years ago, I posted a thread here with pictures showing how I did it. Good luck finding it though ...

Actually very easy to do this.

Bill

This pretty well describes it. I used the simple fill valve attachment available at tractor supply and other locations.

I would also recommend jacking up the tire so that it just barely rests on the ground so the the bead will not be broken by the tractor weight on the tire and the fluid filling the bottom of the tire will not escape. You want some tire contact, but just a little. As you let the air out of the tire, you want to leave just a little air pressure in the tire, not so much your simple drill pump won't pump into this head pressure, but enough so that the bead will stay seated. I installed a ball valve in series with my fill valve adaptor so that air would not be forced back down my hose thru my pump and bubble back into my fluid bucket. That way when you are busy refilling your fluid bucket, you can close the inline valve (simple garden hose valve) then when you restart the pump you can open the valve to let fluid flow back into your tire.

When the pump labors against the head pressure in the tire, shut off the pump, Close the inline valve, then use the burp valve on the fluid adaptor to let some of the air out of the tire again. As you might expect as fluid is added to the tire the remaining air in the tire will become pressurized to the point that the little fluid pump will not pump any more fluid into the tire. All this make sense?

 

[Deere Dude]

This pretty well describes it. I used the simple fill valve attachment available at tractor supply and other locations.

I would also recommend jacking up the tire so that it just barely rests on the ground so the the bead will not be broken by the tractor weight on the tire and the fluid filling the bottom of the tire will not escape. You want some tire contact, but just a little. As you let the air out of the tire, you want to leave just a little air pressure in the tire, not so much your simple drill pump won't pump into this head pressure, but enough so that the bead will stay seated. I installed a ball valve in series with my fill valve adaptor so that air would not be forced back down my hose thru my pump and bubble back into my fluid bucket. That way when you are busy refilling your fluid bucket, you can close the inline valve (simple garden hose valve) then when you restart the pump you can open the valve to let fluid flow back into your tire.

When the pump labors against the head pressure in the tire, shut off the pump, Close the inline valve, then use the burp valve on the fluid adaptor to let some of the air out of the tire again. As you might expect as fluid is added to the tire the remaining air in the tire will become pressurized to the point that the little fluid pump will not pump any more fluid into the tire. All this make sense?

Good advice. I was a rookie and still am, but not as much.

I had my tire off the ground a couple inches while filling through the valve stem. As the tire started filling it became distorted just enough to break the bead, then I had a mess.

 

[Midniteoyl]

All this make sense?

Pretty much the way I imagined it.. So, no problem using a drill pump or even maybe the fluid transfer pump with the 30% methanol solution?

How fast does the drill pump empty a bucket?

 

[k0ua]

Pretty much the way I imagined it.. So, no problem using a drill pump or even maybe the fluid transfer pump with the 30% methanol solution?

How fast does the drill pump empty a bucket?

It has been a while since I have done it. but if I remember it was about 2 gallons a minute. Not terribly fast, but it was fast enough.

 

[Midniteoyl]

It has been a while since I have done it. but if I remember it was about 2 gallons a minute. Not terribly fast, but it was fast enough.

Thanks :thumbsup: