Bush Hog blades hitting deck

   / Bush Hog blades hitting deck #1  

jb1390

Gold Member
Joined
Aug 27, 2010
Messages
432
Location
Southeastern CT
Tractor
Mahindra 3550, Hitachi 120-2
I bought a 6' bushhog off of craigslist a couple months ago. It is a small-name brand manufactured in pennsylvania. In general it seems to be pretty well built, with channel steel for side structure, and 2.5" box tubing for frame rails above the deck. I've run a few styles of blades with it - the original blades had a slight bend in the corner, which provided a slight updraft. I used these blades for some heavy brush cutting the first day I had it, and I noticed a ring of dents starting to appear around the deck - which I figured was due to the blades throwing debris upward into the sheet metal. I changed the blades shortly afterward to a flat style, that I use for heavy brush cutting. The ridge did not seem to get worse, I probably put about 20-30 hours on it through briar patches and other brush with the flat blades.

I recently mowed 13 acres of pasture - which is 99% grass, with the remaining 1% being weeds and rocks. I installed a set of high lift blades, which worked very nicely for lifting the grass up where weather/tire tracks had laid it over. The cut was great - but I noticed the ridge getting worse- to the point that there are a few small holes all the way through the deck. I did hit a fair number of rocks while mowing. I was also running at pto speed or slightly higher - which would make the blades less prone to swing when hitting an obstacle due to high centripetal force.

From what I've read, the blades should never hit the deck, unless something is wrong - but I can't find anything obviously wrong. There is probably 3" or so of clearance between the high lift blade and the deck, and very little slop <.010" in the spindle pin. The blades are not bent, and the stump jumper is in great shape - verified to be good using a dial indicator. The blade bolts are also in good shape - pretty tight, with just enough clearance to allow the blades to turn. When I push hard on the blade, I can make it bend - everything else (including gear box mount) is tight.

My only theory is that when I hit low, angled rocks, it deflects the blades enough to push them up into the deck. Close examination indicates that the blades are actually touching, and it's not just debris being thrown into the deck. This particular mower has lower sides than some (like a woods) - which would likely make it more susceptible to the blades hitting due to lower clearance. The high lift blades also sit closer to the deck than flat ones. It seems like the easiest fix is to add some thicker material to the bottom of the deck - so that when the blade hits it doesn't matter. Also, pull the rocks out where possible - though hitting rocks is par for the course with a bush hog. I could also move the gearbox and extend the sides - though that seems like significantly more effort than adding some wear plate to the underside.

Anybody else run into this kind of issue?
 
   / Bush Hog blades hitting deck #2  
Obviously something is moving. Everything may feel "tight" when you check it by hand, but at full speed things can move around. I suspect that there is enough play in the bolts that hold the blades on, and enough wear in the pivot holes on the blades, that they can move up just enough to hit the bottom-side of the deck. You might need to pull the blades off for a closer inspection. Maybe just go ahead and replace them, and at least eliminate that potential cause. Good luck.
 
   / Bush Hog blades hitting deck #3  
If you are in fact bending your blades by pressing on them by hand, I have to wonder if you are using the correct blade. No way I can bend my blades with just hand pressure. I might get a bit of flex in where they bolt on to the stump jumper, but not bend the blade itself.
 
   / Bush Hog blades hitting deck #4  
There's no way you should be able to bend bush hog blades by hand. Mine are about 3/4 thick.
 
   / Bush Hog blades hitting deck
  • Thread Starter
#5  
Obviously something is moving. Everything may feel "tight" when you check it by hand, but at full speed things can move around. I suspect that there is enough play in the bolts that hold the blades on, and enough wear in the pivot holes on the blades, that they can move up just enough to hit the bottom-side of the deck. You might need to pull the blades off for a closer inspection. Maybe just go ahead and replace them, and at least eliminate that potential cause. Good luck.

They are brand new blades. The bolts are very tight on the blades, with no apparent wear.
 
   / Bush Hog blades hitting deck
  • Thread Starter
#6  
If you are in fact bending your blades by pressing on them by hand, I have to wonder if you are using the correct blade. No way I can bend my blades with just hand pressure. I might get a bit of flex in where they bolt on to the stump jumper, but not bend the blade itself.

There's no way you should be able to bend bush hog blades by hand. Mine are about 3/4 thick.

The blades are 1/2" by 3" blades - pretty standard size. If the blades are not held in place, no way I could bend them - but when bolted to the stump jumper and the deck upside down, I can deflect them with some force. Nothing else seems to move, just the blade. A quick FEA analysis suggests a 1/2" x 3" steel bar that is 2.5 feet long (very similar to blades)will deflect 4.5 inches with 500 pounds of force. The clearance to the deck with high lift blades is less than that - and I think hitting a low rock could easily apply hundreds of pounds of upward force on the blade.

I should also mention that I did remove the blades, and they are not permanently bent. Also, rotating them around and checking side clearance indicates that everything is correct.
 
   / Bush Hog blades hitting deck #7  
How wide is your cutter? I'm guessing the blades are more likely about 18" long. They are also very likely harder than the steel bar in the test.
 
   / Bush Hog blades hitting deck
  • Thread Starter
#8  
How wide is your cutter? I'm guessing the blades are more like about 18" long. They are also very likely harder than the steel bar in the test.

Just went and measured - they are a tad over 30". The cutter is 6'.

Modulus of elasticity doesn't change much among steel types. Yield strength varies significantly. Yield strength is what determines when a part will stay permanently bent - modulus of elasticity determines the "spring rate". Modulus of elasticity is what is used for FEA - I'm very confident that the analysis is correct - though the amount of force that could be applied to the blade while mowing is a guess. I'm thinking that around 300+ pounds isn't unrealistic though - which would be enough to get the blades to touch.

Standard flat blades have a couple more inches of clearance, which is why I think they did not cause dents. It seems like the landpride, woods, etc mowers that I've looked at have much deeper sides than mine, and hence more tolerance to blade bend etc with no contact to the structure. Also on the woods, the structure is underneath the deck - so a little bit of contact would hardly be noticed, and would not be apparent from above.
 
   / Bush Hog blades hitting deck #9  
Measure your exact clearance between. The blades and deck.

3" don't sound like it's anywhere close to enough. The cutter is probably not built for....or spec'd to run lift blades.

If they are a common size, you night be able to find some lift blades with more offset.
 
   / Bush Hog blades hitting deck #10  
Reinforcing the deck by welding plate on the underside could conceivably make the problem worse, since it would reduce clearance. Like LD1, I suspect the unit isn't intended to be used with the hi-lift blades.
 
 
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