Tractor paint

[ovrszd]

Is it the best product to use? No. A single stage urethane would be a better option. But base coat / clear coat is very durable, if done right. If it was coming off in sheets, it was not applied properly. I use it on every part of every tractor I do. It wears quite well on running boards, pedals, hitches, etc.. There is so much mythology when it comes to paint, it is often difficult for someone that is new to the subject to sift through all the personal experiences that people share.

Three rules to remember:

1. You get what you pay for with paint.
2. If you skip steps on surface prep, you are doomed to fail, no matter what paint you use.
3. Avoid "merical products" (there is no replacement for surface prep)

When I was 16 I asked a neighbor, who always had clean, shiny automobiles, what the best car wax was??? He looked at me dead serious and said "Elbow grease Richard, elbow grease". I never forgot that.

 

[ray66v]

Speaking of wax, automotive paints today need to be properly cleaned, but do not really benefit from wax.

Years ago, wax would seal the finish, adding additional corrosion resistance, and help protect the paint. Manufacturers all used soluble finishes, which were so soft, they could be softened up with solvents.

Today they are hard, and have such tight molecular structure, they don't need to be further sealed.

Pollution, and road grime, do need to be occasionally removed. A clay bar, does a wonderful job of this. Auto detailing clay, detail clay bar, clay lubricant, Pinnacle Poly Clay, Wolfgang, auto detail clay, meguiar's detailing clay, auto clay bar

And a finishing "cleaner"/polish, with minimal elbow grease, will usually make it like new again.

Most "wax" today is just a lot of silicone, which does little more than make it bead water. These are the "quick" products.

If you like doing that, or spending the day, trying to remove wax, which you caked all over the vehicle, and allowed to dry hard as a rock, enjoy. I'm not going to try and convince you otherwise.

Her are two retail products most people can easily get, that I would suggest:

This one, if your paint is only mildly worn, and oxidized. It's more of a cleaner, than a wax, but if you want a one step product, it's good stuff: http://www.meguiars.com/en/automotive/products/a1216-cleaner-wax-liquid/#PKg8jfQg4HYR4bGH.97

This one if it's well worn, and more heavily oxidized: http://www.meguiars.com/en/automoti...crystalreg-system-polish/#O8kAmH2ZiYBalsmT.97

Both of those, will also work wonders on the cheap paint on your tractor, if you are so inclined to want to polish it.

Put some product on a balled up rag, made from a t-shirt, and work in a circular motion. Some more worn panels, may require multiple applications initially, to bring them up to par. But, this stuff will get you there.

 

[94BULLITT]

Speaking of wax, automotive paints today need to be properly cleaned, but do not really benefit from wax.

Years ago, wax would seal the finish, adding additional corrosion resistance, and help protect the paint. Manufacturers all used soluble finishes, which were so soft, they could be softened up with solvents.

Today they are hard, and have such tight molecular structure, they don't need to be further sealed.

Pollution, and road grime, do need to be occasionally removed. A clay bar, does a wonderful job of this. Auto detailing clay, detail clay bar, clay lubricant, Pinnacle Poly Clay, Wolfgang, auto detail clay, meguiar's detailing clay, auto clay bar

And a finishing "cleaner"/polish, with minimal elbow grease, will usually make it like new again.

Most "wax" today is just a lot of silicone, which does little more than make it bead water. These are the "quick" products.

If you like doing that, or spending the day, trying to remove wax, which you caked all over the vehicle, and allowed to dry hard as a rock, enjoy. I'm not going to try and convince you otherwise.

Her are two retail products most people can easily get, that I would suggest:

This one, if your paint is only mildly worn, and oxidized. It's more of a cleaner, than a wax, but if you want a one step product, it's good stuff: http://www.meguiars.com/en/automotive/products/a1216-cleaner-wax-liquid/#PKg8jfQg4HYR4bGH.97

This one if it's well worn, and more heavily oxidized: http://www.meguiars.com/en/automoti...crystalreg-system-polish/#O8kAmH2ZiYBalsmT.97

Both of those, will also work wonders on the cheap paint on your tractor, if you are so inclined to want to polish it.

Put some product on a balled up rag, made from a t-shirt, and work in a circular motion. Some more worn panels, may require multiple applications initially, to bring them up to par. But, this stuff will get you there.

Have you ever tried Meguiars #7 glaze on oxidized paint?

before


during


after (it could have been polished for more shine but it was an old truck)


I used a all in one(glaze, cleansing polish, and wax on this one). I clayed it first of course.

 

[ray66v]

Have you ever tried Meguiars #7 glaze on oxidized paint?

Nice work.

I'm pretty sure I have.

I think I have tried all of the Meguiars products at one point.

I liked a couple of products that were professional only. This one is my favorite for oxidized, and worn paint:
Crystal Shine | Car Brite

When they used to sell it in pint bottles, I retailed a lot of Crystal Shine. If a customer had an older car, I would do a spot on the hood by hand, and every one of them bought a bottle.

 

[94BULLITT]

Nice work.

I'm pretty sure I have.

I think I have tried all of the Meguiars products at one point.

I liked a couple of products that were professional only. This one is my favorite for oxidized, and worn paint:
Crystal Shine | Car Brite

When they used to sell it in pint bottles, I retailed a lot of Crystal Shine. If a customer had an older car, I would do a spot on the hood by hand, and every one of them bought a bottle.

I try to stay away from products that are in Walmart and autoparts stores. I like the Megs stuff that is sold at autobody stores and the professional grade stuff.

Crystal shine sounds like some good stuff.

I just got some poli seal to try. Optimum Poli Seal

 

[94BULLITT]

To answer the OP's question, if you do a little maintenance on the paint it will not fade.

 

[milesaweigh]

To answer the OP's question, if you do a little maintenance on the paint it will not fade.

I don't have a problem with my Kubota because it stays inside and gets waxed at least once a year. If it stayed outside, like my car and truck, it would be pink instead of orange. Maintenance is important but it will not completely eliminate the fading.

The point is I think all manufacturers could and should do better.

 

[ovrszd]

I don't have a problem with my Kubota because it stays inside and gets waxed at least once a year. If it stayed outside, like my car and truck, it would be pink instead of orange. Maintenance is important but it will not completely eliminate the fading.

The point is I think all manufacturers could and should do better.

Yeah, mine too.

I think there was a time when Titan wheels used on Kubota's had horrible paint. Very common to see tractors with faded wheels. That must have gotten resolved by the time I bought my tractor in 2012. The wheels haven't faded.