Planning a custom ballast box

[CADplans]

CADplans, that's an interesting datum to consider. It is considerably more awkward, further back, and unbalanced than what I have planned, but point made. Thanks.

AND it is WAY less weight than your original plan of 1,600 pounds.

These tractors have an aluminum rear end.,,, it looks fragile compared to my IH with cast iron.

 

[Musdalen]

No, my original weight estimate is 1170#, plus the carrier frames weight. 1600 is the lift capacity of the FEL.

 

[Musdalen]

After listening to you guys, doing some materials estimations, getting some info from Sakrete, and a few other details, I am thinking I'll reduce the size a bunch and end up with a concrete block that weighs around 733# plus the weight of the carrier frame and 4x6 treated timbers that will hold it up. All told, it will probably be around 850#. I'll make it a bit shorter which will keep the weight a bit lower too, and leave room on top for a tool box or crate.

FWIW, Sakrete Cement Mix is about 128# a cubic foot. That is a bit less than the industry standard 150# cf that I was working with originally. But that number comes from Sakrete so I suspect it is right.

I found that Theisen's Farm Supply had 2" hitch receivers for about $20 that will work perfectly for what I have in mind. I just need to see what I have in 4 x 6 timbers and plywood and then buy some hardware and I'm good to go. Mixing up the cement will be a PITA though. It is 5.7 cf of cement and I'll have to mix it a bag at a time in something, not sure what.

 

[CADplans]

Mixing up the cement will be a PITA though. It is 5.7 cf of cement and I'll have to mix it a bag at a time in something, not sure what.

Dump the Sakrete in dry,, sprinkle with water,,,
I guarantee it will set up. no mixing necessary.

The state builds retaining walls with bags of Sakrete.
Stack them, and forget them. Rain hardens the wall.

 

[Musdalen]

That idea has occurred to me. It is exactly how I set fence posts when I need concrete. However, in this case, I intend to remove the plywood from 3 of the sides so I would like it to be a little more "solid" on the surface and I think mixing with water prior to pouring and then using a stick to get the air out as I go, will work best, though I'm sure I'll get a few voids.

 

[s219]

Where did you find that number from Sakrete? Seems odd to me that they would be so different. I wonder what they are doing different -- maybe they call for more water?

When I looked into this, I found most concrete mix runs 160-165 #/cu.ft dry. It gets to 145-150 after being mixed with water and curing.

Now I suppose you could get the final density back up by using less water. If you have a 60# sack of concrete mix, that's 60# no matter what. Find the recipe from some other concrete mix (which supposedly gets to a proper 145-150 #/cu.ft) and use that instead.

What about Quickcrete, what density do they spec?

 

[olPete]

I made a couple of weights for my aerator from "readicrete" and they turned out a fair bit heavier than I calculated, unsure if that's relevant or not
I sprayed some detergent on the inside of the mold before pouring, and put some in each barrow I mixed, they turned out smooth enough.
They are about 600 pounds each
Half of a plastic drum plus a 2" raised piece to locate the weight in the frame

 

[CADplans]

then using a stick to get the air out as I go, will work best, though I'm sure I'll get a few voids.

Do you have a air chisel? this video SHOCKED me,,,,

Look how dry the mix looks, then watch the chisel do it's magic,,, at 1:09 minutes in the video.

 

[s219]

Do you have a air chisel? this video SHOCKED me,,,,

Look how dry the mix looks, then watch the chisel do it's magic,,, at 1:09 minutes in the video.

Wow that is cool!

 

[Musdalen]

Slick! I've been trying to think of a way to vibrate something enough to matter, but I don't have an air chisel or hammer. I wonder what he had for a release agent?