Concrete barrel ballast box idea

[BMan2005]

Was looking at ballast box ideas and was thinking the ordinary route of using a 55 gal drum upright with pvc inserted for tool storage or flipping the drum sideways and using just a draw bar.

If I went the second route I found a 32" cat 2 draw bar I could use to still allow the most size for ballast weight going that way. I like the idea of not needing to use the top link & seems like I would have less worry of hanging up since the barrel bottom would be round and could roll some. What do you think, and how much weight would I have if I went this route cutting the drum at 32" filled with concrete?

 

[Wagtail]

Have you had a look at the bottom of this page.

The "Similar Threads" provide links to others who have asked this question in the past.

 

[BMan2005]

Yeah, but nothing about the size ballast I'm looking to do.

 

[Baby Grand]

You may want to first take a tape measure and draw up a sketch to ensure that:
1) You can get your 3pt arms spread wide enough to fit over the pins on the cat2 drawbar.
2) That with the arms now spread wide you have enough depth that the laid over cylinder ends don't interfere with the arms - especially when you try to put the drawbar pins through the 3pt arms.
It may be more practical to lay the barrel down fore and aft than sideways.
You'll lose some maneuverability with the increased overhang, but you'll also pick up a little more ballast effect by moving the mass center about a foot further aft of your rear axle. Mass times distance is your friend.
-Jim

 

[MossRoad]

Why wouldn't you want to use the top link?

 

[BMan2005]

You may want to first take a tape measure and draw up a sketch to ensure that:
1) You can get your 3pt arms spread wide enough to fit over the pins on the cat2 drawbar.
2) That with the arms now spread wide you have enough depth that the laid over cylinder ends don't interfere with the arms - especially when you try to put the drawbar pins through the 3pt arms.
It may be more practical to lay the barrel down fore and aft than sideways.
You'll lose some maneuverability with the increased overhang, but you'll also pick up a little more ballast effect by moving the mass center about a foot further aft of your rear axle. Mass times distance is your friend.
-Jim

Good idea

Why wouldn't you want to use the top link?

It's not that I'm against using the top link, but just simpler hook up.

I'm starting to lean towards the upright way. It will just be handy to have some tools and my chainsaw on hand by molding PVC pipe and a chain saw scabbard in the concrete.

 

[rgr33]

I cut a plastic barrel down to 35 gl, and imbedded draw bar 4 inches below the top rim. Used scrap 1/4 inch for top link hook up. The weight including steel and concrete was about 700 lbs, which is more than I needed to lift 1100 lb totes, rear tires are filled.
, Been in use for 4 years, so far so so good.

 

[MossRoad]

If your going to mold them in, be sure to include drains at the bottoms.

I made a 55 gallons barrel ballast for my first tractor. I bought some 3pt implement linkage for the arms and top link and welded them to a rebar framework inside the barrel before I filled it with concrete. I made them several inches higher than the lowest level my 3 put arms could drop to account for uneven ground. That way I could just set it down and u hook it with no trouble, same for hookup.

 

[Msamt]

Mine was non welded TSC and HD sourced entirely. I put mine too deep though (was worried about ground clearance, don't be). I bent a few top links...

 

[ns_in_tex]

This is my second barrel ballast box. Really like it.
On my first one, mounted the three point in center and added a trailer hitch. On this one, moved barrel to rear about 5" past center and added a receiver to be more versatile .
1. Construction
2. Without tool box