X300 oil change.

[bmg88201]

I have an X300 with a 17H Kawasaki and am getting ready to put my mower to bed for the winter. I was wondering if anyone has tried full synthetic motor oil in their mower. Currently using Valvoline 10-30W conventional but was just curious about switching to a synthetic motor oil.


JD dealer stated he could not discourage or recommend synthetic.

Thanks for any comments,

 

[tomplum]

If it makes you feel good, do it. I personally don't use full synthetic in my L&G, though I use good oil and one is a semi-synthetic. Synthetic oil is all over the map as far as quality. Chances of having a lubrication related failure in this engine if maintained as it should be is about nil.

 

[bmg88201]

Yeah, I was just curious, I will probably just keep using Valvoline 10-30W conventional in my mower, I change my oil at the end of every mowing season any way. Valvoline is a good oil and have used that brand in everything I own my entire life. "If it ain't broke, don't fix it."

Thanks for the input.

 

[Randy Gann]

I purchased a new Toro Titan Z turn last summer. Dealer warned me NOT to use normal automotive oil. The allowable levels of Zinc and Phosphorus were reduced by about half in 2010 and that’s after they had already been reduced in years previous to 2010. This reduction lowers the thermal conductivity and anti-wear properties of the oil. Air cooled engines are impacted by this change much more than water cooled engines because air cooled engines depend on the motor oil to carry heat to cool the engine. Current API specification for automobile engines is API SN. Briggs and Stratton air cooled engine oil is API SJ - - which was the automobile spec for oil back in 2001. Back in 2001 the automobile oil contained more zinc and phosporus and was OK for use in a small air cooled engine.

 

[bmg88201]

Thanks for information, I am wondering if the JD brand oil that came in my mower new was API SJ. Next time I am at my JD dealer and I'll look at a quart of their oil and see what the API designation is for curiosity's sake. I appreciate your advice and response. But I just changed my mower oil this am with good ole Valvoline 10-30W. I am sold on Valvoline products, conventional and synthetic. Valvoline actually refines their own oil directly from crude ( Ashland Oil Co ) and is only sold under the Valvoline brand. Gastrol, Penz, Quaker State and several other name brands buy their oil already refined from the major suppliers and then add some additives and even dyes to designate their brand and then package it and sell it.

I really enjoy this forum,

Thanks again for the post.

 

[arits74]

I have an x300 mower and use regular Valvoline 10-30 and have never had a problem.this is the first real mower I have had and its miles ahead of any of the cheaper mowers I have had.i also use valvoilne durablend in all my vehicles.

 

[bmg88201]

Just like the commercial says "People who know, use Valvoline" :dance1:


Glad you like your mower,

 

[Milo]

I use Shell Rotella T6 synthetic 5w-40 in my X310 and almost all my motors. Always felt that lawn mower engines have a hard life and benefit more than most from top quality oil.

 

[arits74]

i feel like if you pick a good oil and stick with it you'll be fine.i worked for a guy on the farm when I was a kid that put straight 30 diesel oil that he got at the co op in everything he owned.a lot of that equipment is still running today.

 

[crazyal]

I think you'll be fine no matter what you use as long as you check the level and let the engine warm up some before revving it up to start mowing. That being said for how much extra it will cost I would probably just go to your local Kawaski dealer and pick up some K-Tech oil. I think it's a synthetic blend but it's probably the best formula for the engine.