3-Point Hitch Ford 5000 Rear PTO spins even when not engaged

[tcweb]

Hello, I've searched the forums, and can't seem to find a similar post, but please let me know if I missed something.

When I disengage the PTO on my ford5000 (rear, running an 84" landpride brushhog), the PTO shaft still spins, although slower.
You can clearly hear it spin up when you engage it. My guess is that this can be adjusted, but I'm kind of new to PTO in general.

Is the rear PTO controlled by a clutch, or is it hydraulic?

I can live with it as-is, but I'm sure it's a safety issue, and it would be nice to know that the massive blades aren't spinning when I disengage the PTO.

Love this tractor, it is a workhorse!

Thanks,

-Tom

 

[RickB]

Your PTO clutch is an Hydraulically engaged multiple wet disc style clutch. Depending on the built date of your 5000, the PTO brake is an hydraulically engaged pawl or brake band. Either your pawl is worn out, or your brake band is broken. Again, depending on your build date, the repair will require removal of the lift cover or a rear split to access the clutch.

 

[tylertown]

The tractor in the picture looks about a 71 or 72 I just went through this mine has a non adjustable shoe style brake the band didn't start until 72 or 73 later I think...
Most likley your snap ring has come out of your clutch pack and it allowed the main spring to not have enough force on the piston in the clutch pack to press the fluid back out when u disengage it so that means the fluid is staying in for longer keeping the clutch discs togeather and causing it to continue to spin after you disengage it.

I have pictures if u need them.

Take lift cover off and under the draft control the bracket that you hook your top link to, fold it down remove that cover and slide the shaft out the back of the tractor and remove the screw by your left foot step with the nut and when u take it out I bet the spring has pushed the snap ring an thrust washer into the clutch hub.

 

[tylertown]

that's the spring that supposed to be still in the clutch pack.

If this is a newer style with the band you can take the lift cover off and adjust it from the top to apply drag. But I'd pill the clutch pack first and make sure it hasn't come apart because then adjusting it would be pointless.
Let me know if you need anything further. (Be careful with the lift cover. Get a shop crane it's HEAVY)

 

[ovrszd]

Good information guys!!!!!

Definitely use a "lift" of some kind for the 3pt cover. I removed mine by hand but used a cherry picker to put it back. Heavy and awkward.

 

[RickB]

The tractor in the picture looks about a 71 or 72 I just went through this mine has a non adjustable shoe style brake the band didn't start until 72 or 73 later I think...
Most likley your snap ring has come out of your clutch pack and it allowed the main spring to not have enough force on the piston in the clutch pack to press the fluid back out when u disengage it so that means the fluid is staying in for longer keeping the clutch discs togeather and causing it to continue to spin after you disengage it.

I have pictures if u need them.

Take lift cover off and under the draft control the bracket that you hook your top link to, fold it down remove that cover and slide the shaft out the back of the tractor and remove the screw by your left foot step with the nut and when u take it out I bet the spring has pushed the snap ring an thrust washer into the clutch hub.

Nothing in that picture identifies that 5000 as anything other than one with late style sheet metal. If you think it's a 71 but not a 74, I'd like for you to tell us why.

 

[tylertown]

Nothing in that picture identifies that 5000 as anything other than one with late style sheet metal. If you think it's a 71 but not a 74, I'd like for you to tell us why.

RickB I don't want to be a jack@$$ please don't take it that way, your correct the sheet metal is of a later model tractor.

Look at the hub and hub cap the cap is not cast iron like the later models, with a thicker hub flange. The early model also has lug nut studs with a flat spot on them so they dont spin when puttin lug nuts on or taking them off. Later models late 72 and up had splined lug nut studs. If had been replaced why would they put an early hub on a late tractor when the later parts are more avaliable

f you look under the foot rest there is no spin on hydraulic return filter (early model design.) It's inside the rear-end. That's your main sign that by having new sheet metal and no spin on filter it's between the change dates 71 or 72. If I am wrong I'll say it.

Again not wanting an argument just telling you what I know tends to set the years apart by appearance

 

[tcweb]

It’s a 1972, actually. (I was given incorrect information from the original owner)

 

[tcweb]

long time since I first posted this...I really want to get back to addressing the issue. Does this require splitting the tractor, or can it be done easier?
Sorry the pics above are helpful, but I'm not sure exactly how to go about checking the spring and re-seating (or replacing it) if needed.

-Tom

 

[tcweb]

View attachment 526754 that's the spring that supposed to be still in the clutch pack.

If this is a newer style with the band you can take the lift cover off and adjust it from the top to apply drag. But I'd pill the clutch pack first and make sure it hasn't come apart because then adjusting it would be pointless.
Let me know if you need anything further. (Be careful with the lift cover. Get a shop crane it's HEAVY)

I know that my clutch is getting worn - need to really push it all the way down to keep a few gears from grinding when going into gear. I only put 50-60 hours per year on it, so I've been hesitant to do the clutch until it really needs it.

So please forgive my ignorance, but...how much of my tractor would I need to take apart to check what you mention here?