Post Hole Digger on a Sub-compact Tractor

[newbury]

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I know this is an entry level device and there are functional limits due to the small size of the tractor, etc. But is there a trick to reliably drilling holes straight down? Or do you just keep taking new "bites" until you get it?

Twenty four of my holes are for a deck. They need to be fairly precise and straight, in line with the posts and supporting beams. If I have an auger wandering around outside of the "target" it might create problems I don't want to have?

Why do your holes HAVE to be precise and straight? They are HOLES. Use sonotubes and fill back in around them. After I had drilled a few I learned to get the angles right, my first were a little large.

 

[Tractorable]

Echo those calling to be careful with augers. I knew a gal who got her arm caught in an auger. Wasn't pretty, and she lost most of the use of her arm.

 

[Teachu2]

I have used my neighbor's Countryline auger on a compact tractor. Used my FEL to apply down pressure. Worked OK.

I bought a Gas Powered Earth Auger, and it has worked GREAT! Easy for me to handle, very controllable, fast, easy to position. If I need a bigger hole, I drill three in a triangle and use a manual phd. Easy on the surrounding landscape, as well. I also used it to start trenches for a sprinkler system, and to drill under an existing landscaping timber for a water line.

 

[CincyFlyer]

Why do your holes HAVE to be precise and straight? They are HOLES. Use sonotubes and fill back in around them. After I had drilled a few I learned to get the angles right, my first were a little large.

Because if you are putting in dozens of posts with concrete, it goes much more quickly if you don't have to make the hole larger or do other work to get the posts in line and the right distance apart. And if you are simply using fill to wedge them, the tighter the fit, the better.

 

[Erik M]

Ask around, there is usually someone with a Bobcat and an auger with downforce that will make short work of all your holes for a modest fee.

 

[skipmarcy]

I usually start my holes with my hand post hole diggers - just enough to get the sod off/out, maybe 2 inches deep or so. This keeps the auger from dancing around trying to get it started. My Craftsman 6" diggers work excellent for my 9" auger and do pretty well for my 12" one too. Takes a little practice to get the right angle on the auger while sitting in the seat but you can get the hang of it pretty quick. Plus you have to remember to stop and back up just a little every now & then to keep it straight.

 

[plowhog]

I don't have a compactor other than driving over dirt with the tractor tire. So if I drill a hole twice as wide as I would otherwise need, I'm mixing lots of extra concrete to fill it.

That's a great tip about hand starting the first few inches .... hmmm this might work out yet!!

 

[Mattt2778]

I have a mahindra emax 25hst and a countyline phd with the 9" and 12" bits. I've dug over 100 holes with the phd without issue. The one thing I've both read and experienced is that the tip on the county line augers is aggressive. You really have to be careful and quick on three point to keep it from over running or else you'll need to grab a monster pipe wrench and a cheater pipe. I know that the three point phd get a bad rap but as a contractor who's dug 100's of deck footing holes by hand they are an awesome value, and once you figure out the tricks to operating them they work quite well. I recently dug 50 3' x9" fence post holes in under two hours, of those I was throwing baseball sized rocks throughout and only had two that required a digging bar and clam shells. I should note though that even though the emax is considered a sub compact by most standards it does have a full category 1 three point and not a limited so there's no requirement for a specialized sub compact equipment.

 

[DieselBound]

Ask around, there is usually someone with a Bobcat and an auger with downforce that will make short work of all your holes for a modest fee.

OR, RENT! I recently put up some fencing, requiring about 100 holes (I went 3 1/2' deep). Soil type has a lot of say in how your holes can be dug. Precision DOES matter. Starting out with proper aim means that deviations will be less likely to screw you up: I was hand-tamping my posts and with well-centered holes that meant I could readily get my tamper all around the posts (yes, one can knock walls down, which I had to do plenty of, but that takes a lot of time and energy).

Ample down force allowed me to push through roots and rocks. Also can lean and overdrive, forward or to the rear, to force the bit to catch and correct past (usually under) an object.

Wheeled skid steer. Augur that is 2x the size of the posts.

Oh yeah, CALL BEFORE YOU DIG! I had had a garage built and needed to locate existing utilities, so I'd already had, recently, all noted. When I went to do my fencing I figured I was good. My equipment rental guy told me to have them out again, as should I hit something then it'll be on THEM to deal with any repercussions. I heeded his word: I was fortunate in that my post spacing that I'd laid out was well clear.

 

[Phillip w]

I used a post hole digger on a allis Chalmers d-15 and it all worked out. I've also used it on my allis Chalmers 185. I will grant that we have 24-30 inches of prime top soil/farm ground so that helps. The weight of the digger does the trick. The lower you 3rd member on your tractor the higher it seems to lift the anger. It seems like the d-15 may have raised the augur just as well as as the 185. What ever you do becareful around rotating machinery. And CALL before you dig. I drilled into an underground 240 volt electric line. I figure being on the tractor and the fact the line was fused probably "saved my bacon". It was still an inconvienice and expensive mess.