Hand throttle setting - faster clutch wear? - gears only, no Shuttle Shift

[DK35vince]

My manual says to avoid feathering or riding the clutch - not exact quote. With PTO driven equipment the engine is supposed to be up to speed during operation, and therefore stopping and starting would require clutching at higher RPMs.

I always throttle down to start and stop, or forward/reverse even with PTO driven equipment engaged with a geared tractor.
Doesn't hurt the attachments a bit. Been doing it that way for decades.
So much easier on the clutch and the machine is so much less jumpy. No need to have it throttled up to forward/reverse, start/stop.

 

[marchanna]

Definitely a good case for throttling it down. Absolutely, it would be easier on the clutch, but I'm not sure it is outside the normal expected operating parameters of the clutch. The only PTO attachment I have right now, is a flail mower, and it would be a very awkward task to throttle it up and down every time I had to stop, especially in the tight and tricky areas. I'm always in low range when mowing, so I don't find it very jumpy.

 

[DK35vince]

IMO using the foot throttle vs the hand throttle for throttling up and down for start/stop-forward/reverse makes things much easier.
Especially in tight and tricky areas.
My hand throttle only gets used in large open areas where I'm going a 1 speed for longer periods of time.
80% of the time I use the foot throttle for better control. For loader work, snow plowing, mowing around trees/building, rototilling my garden, Etc.

 

[marchanna]

IMO using the foot throttle vs the hand throttle to throttle up and down for start/stop-forward/reverse makes things much easier.
Especially in tight tricky areas.
My hand throttle only gets used in large open areas where I'm going a 1 speed for a long time.
90% of the time I use the foot throttle for better control. For loader work, mowing around trees/building, Etc

Agreed, but when you're mowing at the same time, you want to keep the mower at a fixed speed. Follow what I'm saying?

When I do loader work, I usually use the foot throttle.

 

[DK35vince]

Agreed, but when you're mowing at the same time, you want to keep the mower at a fixed speed. Follow what I'm saying?

When I do loader work, I usually use the foot throttle.

I follow what you are trying to say.
But finish mowing and brush mowing in tight tricky areas I always use the foot throttle to slow down/speed up, forward/reverse as needed and it mows just fine.

 

[marchanna]

Fair enough. My flail mower needs the rpm to cut though.

 

[LouNY]

I set the hand throttle to the minimum engine rpm I need or want, when I'm hauling wagons I'll throttle down with the hand throttle when stopping use enough to come out with the clutch then when in high gear hand throttle up to engine rpm desired. I only use the foot feed to over ride the hand throttle when desired the hand throttle is the main. In a flat barn just moving along I'd be throttled down to 1000-1200 rpm, I sure don't want some one playing with the foot feed when their feet should be ready to clutch and brake.

 

[Texasmark]

I think you have enough answers to not need my contribution for #2 option, but here it is. Just ensure that the operator doesn't "ride the clutch" and let it all the way out after disengaging and keep foot pressure off it.

 

[goeduck]

Right, the clutch pedal is not a foot rest.

 

[mike69440]

My opinion is that a clutch should always be engaged at as low an RPM as possible. I have both wet and dry clutches and I treat them the same, clutch at low RPM, then increase the RPM for the use.

Very true. Slipping and riding a clutch will take it out quick.
I know I must take a toll on the wet and dry clutches of my GST L39 when plowing snow, forward and reverse at load and up to 2200 RPM, over and over again and again.
I'm pretty good letting the wet clutch take the majority of the slippage, but the machine will stall if you don't slip the dry just a bit when reversing in 10 or 11th gear. I do come to a complete stop before reversing. Not looking forward to having the clutches replaced eventually. The tractor has 2200 hours. and clutches seem fine. (I hope!)
I have a 600 HP mustang with 90 K, Factory clutch. We ran a Mazda +300K on the original OEM clutch. My 20 year old F-150 has clutch since original defective one was replaced under Ford warrantee. I've not had a recent vehicle that has not worn out before needing a clutch. I can only hope the same for my tractors.