dummy
Platinum Member
- Joined
- Jul 31, 2001
- Messages
- 735
- Location
- Southern Maryland
- Tractor
- Ford 1220, John Deere 770, Case 580E and Allmand TLB-35
Across the way in Indian Head. Be happy to help out. Check your PM.
Backhoe Moving Your Tractor With Backhoe
- Thread starter RobS
- Start date
TC18guy
Silver Member
Don,
what model year is your tractor? I thought mine was an '02, but I don't have the safety switch in the seat.
what model year is your tractor? I thought mine was an '02, but I don't have the safety switch in the seat.
I guess it"s an '03 -- I got it one year ago April. It has a 12LA loader, and I don't think they were available on the '02 models. If I want to leave my seatr with the engine running, the transmission has to be in neutral and the parking brake has to be set. I'm not sure if the PTO must also be disengaged -- I think so -- but I have never tried to get out of the seat while the PTO was still engaged.
DiskDoctr
Platinum Member
Rob,
I don't know the size of your machine, but on our Case 580K (good sized backhoe), we move with the hoe quite often.
Some advice if you do so.
1. Leave the parking brake ON. If you have to reposition your hoe to get another bite, the tractor won't roll backwards. Also, if you have to move the hoe in a hurry for stability, the tractor will stay where you put it /forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif
2. Obviously, lift the back wheels off the ground with the hoe. We normally have them lifted by the stabjacks anyway, so just drop the hoe, raise the stabilizers. The wheels should only be about 2 inches off the ground. There are some serious stability issues, and you wouldn't want to invite a tip.
3. When digging, always have the front bucket on the ground with at least slight down pressure, but don't lift the front wheels completely (unless using to level for dig). Don't forget to lift the front bucket before pushing. Again only a few inches, for the same stability reason.
4. Using the hoe...Small steps are better. Straighten the bucket all the way or close, raise it above soil and use your extension arm (the cylinder between your main lift and your bucket right in the middle of the hoe) to position your hoe about no less than halfway extended. Let me say this another way. If your hoe is in an upright "A" shape, then move the extension arm to place the bucket and extension arm just a bit further extended than straight below the end of the extension cylinder at the tip of the "A". Extend it just a bit more to be sure.
IMPORTANT: If your hoe bucket is closer to the tractor than directly beneath the top end of the extension cylinder, the position will be extremely UNSTABLE when lifting the stabilizers. (We've done it, but you have almost NO CONTROL over left/right tilt of the tractor) Extended beyond this point gives some left/right stability and control.
5. When moving, extend the arm some, then lower the hoe as necessary to keep the wheels about 2"-3" off the ground. You can reposition the hoe as many times as you like. If you try to move t0o far, most people have problems with the arc of the swing, then have to play too much with up/down.
If pulling the tractor back, don't retract the arm beyond the center point mentioned above.
HINT: When backing into a dig spot, it may help if you extend the hoe about 3/4 of your reach for your working reach/depth, about 3"-4" off the ground and *gently* back the tractor until the hoe is where you want it. Watch the hoe doesn't contact the ground or go too high. This is also low stability, but usually okay if on level, flat ground and helps reduce the need for repositioning.
Good luck, and be careful.
-JC
PS- Forgot the disclaimer: Always follow the instructions in your manual and never operate your equipment in a manner contrary to what is recommended therein or in a manner not recommeded therein. The above is what "I" do and how it can theoretically be done, and is not in any way a recommendation or inducement for anyone to attempt to repeat or reproduce said acts... etc, etc, etc.
I don't know the size of your machine, but on our Case 580K (good sized backhoe), we move with the hoe quite often.
Some advice if you do so.
1. Leave the parking brake ON. If you have to reposition your hoe to get another bite, the tractor won't roll backwards. Also, if you have to move the hoe in a hurry for stability, the tractor will stay where you put it /forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif
2. Obviously, lift the back wheels off the ground with the hoe. We normally have them lifted by the stabjacks anyway, so just drop the hoe, raise the stabilizers. The wheels should only be about 2 inches off the ground. There are some serious stability issues, and you wouldn't want to invite a tip.
3. When digging, always have the front bucket on the ground with at least slight down pressure, but don't lift the front wheels completely (unless using to level for dig). Don't forget to lift the front bucket before pushing. Again only a few inches, for the same stability reason.
4. Using the hoe...Small steps are better. Straighten the bucket all the way or close, raise it above soil and use your extension arm (the cylinder between your main lift and your bucket right in the middle of the hoe) to position your hoe about no less than halfway extended. Let me say this another way. If your hoe is in an upright "A" shape, then move the extension arm to place the bucket and extension arm just a bit further extended than straight below the end of the extension cylinder at the tip of the "A". Extend it just a bit more to be sure.
IMPORTANT: If your hoe bucket is closer to the tractor than directly beneath the top end of the extension cylinder, the position will be extremely UNSTABLE when lifting the stabilizers. (We've done it, but you have almost NO CONTROL over left/right tilt of the tractor) Extended beyond this point gives some left/right stability and control.
5. When moving, extend the arm some, then lower the hoe as necessary to keep the wheels about 2"-3" off the ground. You can reposition the hoe as many times as you like. If you try to move t0o far, most people have problems with the arc of the swing, then have to play too much with up/down.
If pulling the tractor back, don't retract the arm beyond the center point mentioned above.
HINT: When backing into a dig spot, it may help if you extend the hoe about 3/4 of your reach for your working reach/depth, about 3"-4" off the ground and *gently* back the tractor until the hoe is where you want it. Watch the hoe doesn't contact the ground or go too high. This is also low stability, but usually okay if on level, flat ground and helps reduce the need for repositioning.
Good luck, and be careful.
-JC
PS- Forgot the disclaimer: Always follow the instructions in your manual and never operate your equipment in a manner contrary to what is recommended therein or in a manner not recommeded therein. The above is what "I" do and how it can theoretically be done, and is not in any way a recommendation or inducement for anyone to attempt to repeat or reproduce said acts... etc, etc, etc.
theonlybull
Gold Member
- Joined
- Sep 6, 2003
- Messages
- 307
dick doctor has conveyed the message of how to do it quite well, but when you run a larger machine, like the 580, you often move with the hoe. it's possable to cross ditches, trenches and go up/down banks with them, providing you have the correct experiance.
i've even seen these machines loaded into the backs of dump trucks with just the tailgate removed. althought i do not suggest anyone try it with thier hoe attachment, these larger machines were built to be able to support thier own weight for such manouvers
personally, i have no problems moving our hoe with the hoe. backwards, forwards, left or right.
i've even seen these machines loaded into the backs of dump trucks with just the tailgate removed. althought i do not suggest anyone try it with thier hoe attachment, these larger machines were built to be able to support thier own weight for such manouvers
personally, i have no problems moving our hoe with the hoe. backwards, forwards, left or right.
lrunge
Silver Member
I think that was DiskDoctr. Not sure he would like the handle you gave him.
JimR
Elite Member
My old 1952 Ford 8N was always horsed around using the backhoe that was on it. I was always getting mired in mud in the back yard woods with it. That backhoe got me out everytime. I would just lift the tractor right up out of the mud and swing the back end over. I also used the backhoe to lift the tractor up over my brook so I could straddle it to dig it out. This was a frame mounted backhoe that I had on it and modified greatly with C beams from the backhoe base all the way up to the front of the tractor using cross braces at every joint. I wish I had some pictures of it now.
Henro
Super Member
- Joined
- Jul 4, 2003
- Messages
- 5,977
- Location
- Few miles north of Pgh, PA
- Tractor
- Kubota B2910, BX2200, KX41-2V mini EX
<font color="blue"> dick doctor has conveyed the message of how to do it quite well </font>
<font color="green"> I think that was DiskDoctr. Not sure he would like the handle you gave him.
</font>
/forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
<font color="green"> I think that was DiskDoctr. Not sure he would like the handle you gave him.
</font>
/forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
chucko
Veteran Member
now were is that pic of a guy loading one into a railcar?