Properly securing a CUT for trailering

[dirtwhisperer]

Can anyone offer suggestions on ways to properly secure a CUT to a trailer for towing ? I'm thinking in terms of a tractor in the 30-40 HP range with FEL and Finish mower on a 18-20' trailer. I have towed boats in the 5000 pound range - but never tractors - I 'm thinking these are completly differnent beasts to haul and secure properly. I'm looking at using my Ford Expedition with a tow rating of about 7700.

 

[Gary_in_Indiana]

Here you go. Secure it on four points at the axles. Your attachments (chains or straps) should be secured to your trailer so that they are at about a thirty degree angle with the trailer attachment points about one or two inches outside the attachment points on the tractor. In other words, your trailer attachment points should be about three inches further apart that your tractor attachment points. Secure your implement separately, of course.

All of that having been said, I'll tell you to do what I say and not what I do because I use a different method which probably isn't as good. /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif

I have an electric hydraulic tilt bed trailer and an 8000# Warn winch with a brake. I hook a pear ring with two chains with J-hooks to it and put the J-hooks on my front axle to load it. When I have it about where I want it on the trailer I attach two straps to the rear, pull the tractor forward to snug those and put the brake on the winch. I then attach a safety chain to the front (which is my second front attachment point for safety), lower the bed and I'm off. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

I've now got it down to the point where, if my tractor is at the rear of my trailer, I can have it loaded, secured and be back in my truck pulling away in about ten minutes. /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif I love my trailer. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[Inspector507]

Gary,
A lot of us would love to have your trailer too /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[Kaliburz]

Yup, 4pt chain method. I do a modified 4 pt (GASP) /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif.; well, similar to a 4pt...... Two chains and two chain binders. One chain starts on one side of the bed, then is wrapped around the front weight frame (it's VERY secure) then to the other side of the bed and it squats the front tires.... Back chain starts on one side, goes on and around my 3pt (lowered) and it is secured on the other side; it too squats the tires when locked down. Tractor is in "park" also..... I've never lost a tractor (yet), but I don't drive like a bat out of hell either.....




OH.... by the way, for transporting equipment, I have a 81 C8000 Ford diesel w/ a semi roll back bed.....24' long. /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif

 

[Gary_in_Indiana]

<font color="blue"> "A lot of us would love to have your trailer too." </font>

Thank you, Jerry. I'm really happy with it. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif I've thought about building a wider, over the wheels gooseneck version and replacing my Tahoe with something like a crew cab short bed. The 'problem' is that this works so well I can't really justify it. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[Inspector507]

Well, now that you have all that welding knowledge /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

I just sent my payment in for 2 welding courses, Intro and Advanced. Both are only 20 hours each, but I think I'll gain a lot knowledge out of them, at least I hope. When you signed up for yours, I checked and none were offered by the local school district's adult education, or at least that's what I was told. Now I find out, this is their 3rd year for Adult welding......go figure /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif I'm gonna start next month.

 

[OkieG]

<font color="blue"> ...ways to properly secure a CUT to a trailer for towing ? </font>

This topic has been discussed before. My take is there is probably more than one way to do a good job securing your tractor. Obviously, the rear chain(s) prevent forward movement, and vice-a-versa. Positioning so there's a little positive tongue weight is a good idea. My tiedown technique is this: Four points on the trailer; two by the front corners of the trailer, two by the rear. Two points on the tractor; bumper/weight rack in front, and draw bar in back. One chain in front, one in back. Front chain connects front bumper to forward trailer tiedown pockets, and back chain connects drawbar to rear trailer pockets. Implements are attached to tractor, so I don't tie them down separately. I use a grabhook mounted a foot or two from the end of the front chain to take up slack, then back the tractor a couple inches 'til the chain is tight, then set the parking brake to keep it tight. I use a rachet tie down to take up slack on the back chain. No recommendation for "properness" is made for my technique...it's just the way I do it. A professional trucker, on another thread, suggested checking the chains after 1 mile, 10 miles and 100 miles.

I use grabhooks on the ends of the chains to catch the pockets welded to the sides of the trailer. The only really good piece of advice I have is this:

When attaching the chain "end hooks" to the trailer, drop them through the pockets and hook the hooks on the TOP edge of the pocket. That way if the chain goes slack for some reason, the ends will stay connected to the trailer. That may prevent an inadvertent, catastrophic loss of tractor from trailer.

OkieG

 

[Gary_in_Indiana]

<font color="blue"> "I just sent my payment in for 2 welding courses...I think I'll gain a lot knowledge out of them..." </font>

Jerry,

If you enjoy yours even half as much as I enjoyed mine it'll be well worth the time and money invested. Just beiing able to weld hooks onto something or even adding a tie down to a trailer is great! /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[Inspector507]

Sent the payment, but no conformation as of yet

 

[Gary_in_Indiana]

I'm more than a little concerned at a couple of posts here that seem to suggest that one chain & binder or ratchet strap on each end is sufficient. One suggested that a single chain from a point on the trailer around an axle/weight rack and back to a different point on the trailer was a modified four point attachment. It's not.

I'm far from deserving of any "Mr. Safety" title for more reasons than I'd care to discuss but we're talking about something that can cost lives here. If you have only one chain on the front of your load and that chain breaks then that loan can move backwards double the length of the other chain IF it holds under that strain. Most times that will be off the trailer.

If it's the single rear chain that breaks the load can move forward double the length of the front chain IF it holds under the strain. Usually that's onto the tongue and into the rear of the tow vehicle.

A four point tie down is just that. It's secured at four points, not just two or three. I'm sure someone can tell anecdotal tales about their chains holding up, etc., but, in the final analysis, four is certainly better than two. Besides that, in many jurisdictions, mine included, it's the law.

If you do lose a load with less than two attachment points at each end and that load breaks free and causes death or serious injury you're in for problems. At the very least you'll have to live with the fact that your laziness/lack of knowledge/arrogance caused that trauma. More than that, you'll likely be sued civilly and possibly prosecuted criminally.

If I haven't made my point yet, let me ask one question here. Would you rather have your family passed by me with my load secured properly or by someone with only one chain on the front and one on the rear if one chain is going to break or one binder is going to fail?

Sorry for the length and preachiness of this. It's just something about which I feel strongly.