Setting a turning plow

[JerryG]

<font color="blue">Are you sure that isn't the left rear up on the 6" block, simulating the right in the furrow? I use the procedure you describe but am sure I raise the left wheel.</font>
It is the left side tire./forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif It’s been a bad week already and it’s not over yet. /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif The tractor has to tilt to the right. The reason that I always tell everybody to use a block is because if they don't do it this way first they will think that there is no way that it could be the right amount of tilt. I just crank my arm adjustment to where the points are off the ground a good amount when it is sitting on the ground. I have done it enough that I know where to stop the crank at.


<font color="blue">In addition, some plows have an adjustable cross beam that the lift arms connect to, that can be rotated to 'steer' the plow in the direction you want it pulled.</font>
Yes, some do. Mostly older plows with more than one bottom had that adjustment. I don’t see how the new plows without this adjustment can be made to work right. I know that most older Massey and John Deer plows can be set up to do a good job and pull easy. I have a MF model 66, three bottom that works fantastic and pulls very easy. A good 3 bottom plow that is setup right is easier to pull than a poorly setup and built 2 bottom.


<font color="blue">I've never taken into account the wheel width but I believe they are narrowed up all the way.</font>
The point of the front bottom needs to cut into the previous furrow. To make it do this, you need to have the right wheel set at the right distance out.

<font color="blue"> Would a longer landside or slide whatever you call it on the rear bottom help any? </font>
I don’t see how it would help any, but it might.

 

[challengertn]

" The point of the front bottom needs to cut into the previous furrow"

Are you saying the back end of the front point needs to stick out into the furrow?

 

[beenthere]

Plowing right, no part of the plow bottom should be in the path of the old furrow it is covering, IMO. Leaving a bit of attached roots at the furrow's left edge will aid in 'turning' or rolling the new cut over into the furrow.

Important to plowing with the 3pt is for the draft control to be working right, and for the top arm to be hooked in the right linkage for the draft control system to function. I'm not remembering what your tractor has for draft control, but it may be having some effect on controlling the depth of the 2-bottom plow.

 

[JerryG]

<font color="blue">Are you saying the back end of the front point needs to stick out into the furrow?</font>
No, the front tip of the front plow bottom.

 

[JerryG]

I didn't mean to say for the plow to be in furrow, but for the point to cut the edge of the furrow.
<font color="blue"> IMO. Leaving a bit of attached roots at the furrow's left edge will aid in 'turning' or rolling the new cut over into the furrow. </font>
In some soils with certain plows, that might be necessary. In most soils, I prefer to cut it out without going into the furrow. I am sure there are many different ways that people set up plows. Even ground speed makes a difference with where I like the plow set.

 

[challengertn]

I think that there is a problem with the draft because the lift is constant manual operation trying to keep it at the right depth. I think the adjustable front bar could be the culprit on the taking of too much land because it is straight up and down right now. The tractor also steers hard due to the pull of the plow. The plow no longer has the rolling landside if that is the correct term. Several years ago it was retro fitted with newer bottoms and coulters due to the price and availability of the fitted points. It is a 2 12" bottom plow with 14" points. JerryG, I know I'm just misunderstanding you because the way I read it you would have the front plow traveling out in the open furrow made on the previous pass not turning anything over.

 

[challengertn]

JerryG, I just read your last post and I understand now. It's getting late so I'm going to bed. I'll be back tomorrow. Thanks, Gentlemen

 

[DDT]

Just a though I use. If you are on level ground the plow should be level side to side and front to back while in the ground.
I use a 6" block to but also the front tire to. This way your tractor is level front to back and yout top link adjustment will be closer to right.
Just shareing how I do it, This can get confussing.

 

[teddydo]

I tell you these turning plows are great tools. When used with expertise you can choose to build a terrace waist deep if you like. When set right and the right speed you can turn ground and do little disking, in some ground just harrow after turning. It will simply take a little effort and time to learn what you want but it will be worth the effort. I prefer turning over chiesling groung anytime, you can hide corn stalks easy. Sometimes I disk lightly before turning. Some around here have big tractors with small turning plows and pull them thruogh the ground just any way but you can tell by looking at the workk they aren't set properly. I am glad this topic got started........teddy /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif

 

[challengertn]

Once again I want to thank all of you who answered this thread. I must admit when I posted this question on this site I was skeptical about what kind of answers I would get on a compact utility tractor site. I didn't know how many people still used a turning plow and especially with the smaller tractors. You've proven that there was nothing to worry about except honing my own skills which I can't wait to try when this bad weather subsides. I hope all of you have a very Merry Christmas and next year will be a good one for you.