Bush Hogging Rates

[sparkkky]

Above quote was from Okla. State Univ. custom rate page and it is a average of the Pro's like Indy and the wannabe's like Indy talked about.

And most of these posted prices are on the low side. Just finished a wildlife Dept. cost share program, and up to a couple years ago if you did your own manuel work you got to get back half of $6.00 per hour, we got credit for half of $12.50! /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[sparkkky]

Indys experience is why I am glad that its against the law for someone without a license to charge for wiring, not that it stops it but it slows it down.

SPEND MOST OF MY DAYS CLEANING UP AFTER DO IT YOURSELFERS ITS SURPRISING MOST NEIGHBORHOODS HAVE NOT BURNED DOWN!

Yes, I was shouting!

 

[bdog]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( I go after work that requires valid insurance, paying taxes, and just being a legitimate business. For that niche, I'm about the cheapest game in town. )</font>

No offense Indy, but I have insurance, I pay taxes, and I have a legitimate business. Trust me you have much more experience at this than I do, and you we even grateful enough to give me advice when I was starting out,but that does not mean that the new guys starting are not doing things legal. I am new to this tractor business but I am not new to business. I

Someone else mentioned the "pros" and the "wannabees" . Cmon guys we are talking about shredding here. It is not rocket science to mow some weeds. Sure experience helps and with that you get much better on the business side of things, but shredding is shredding. I am sure Indy has several guys that work for him as from what I can tell he has a large operation. I hope I can acheive that someday, but for now, as a small owner operator I would think that I do a better job than an hourly worker working for someone else as it is my business and name on the line.

 

[Bob_Young]

I'd rather charge by the acre; for the reason stated plus the fact that there would be no pressure to run "balls out". It's a new rig and I don't push it too hard on my own fields. On a strange field where "who knows what" is hidden in the grass, I'm even less inclined to hammer it. I'll probably leave the FEL on and use it as a trash detector.

How do you determine how close to cut? Do you ask the landowner what he wants or do you simply set the hog at a height unlikely to scalp or bottom out? Rocks are a big issue around here as well.

Thanks to all for the inputs.
Bob

 

[sparkkky]

Quote

Someone else mentioned the "pros" and the "wannabees" .

Sorry that came from being a electrical contractor and was more directed at people that think if you use 22Ga speaker wire and it works it must be ok!

Todays last job was a women that took out her switch with a short in a new fixture she just tried to hang that tripped a breaker and also unhooked her neutral to the lights in the kitchen.

Next was correcting the wiring to a three way the husband had replaced with the switch leg stabbed into a traveler hole and a traveler leg stuck in the hole thats for removing the wire, and the other traveler hole empty.

Most 3/W's I see that handy persons (hired or just plain helpful) replaced with single poles with the third wire to ground. /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif

 

[Indydirtfarmer]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( </font><font color="blueclass=small">( I go after work that requires valid insurance, paying taxes, and just being a legitimate business. For that niche, I'm about the cheapest game in town. )</font>

No offense Indy, but I have insurance, I pay taxes, and I have a legitimate business. Trust me you have much more experience at this than I do, and you we even grateful enough to give me advice when I was starting out,but that does not mean that the new guys starting are not doing things legal. I am new to this tractor business but I am not new to business. I

Someone else mentioned the "pros" and the "wannabees" . Cmon guys we are talking about shredding here. It is not rocket science to mow some weeds. Sure experience helps and with that you get much better on the business side of things, but shredding is shredding. I am sure Indy has several guys that work for him as from what I can tell he has a large operation. I hope I can acheive that someday, but for now, as a small owner operator I would think that I do a better job than an hourly worker working for someone else as it is my business and name on the line.

)</font>

After looking back at my post to make sure of the facts, I failed to see where I mentioned you, or anyone else in particular as "non-insured, non-tax-paying, or non-legit business"....

And no, it isn't rocket science, no, it doesn't take an MBA to run a successful business.

I'm not sure why you take my comments so personally. They sure weren't intended that way.

After 31 years of operating a successful mowing business, I do feel like I've learned a few lessons that MIGHT help someone else thinking of doing the same.

 

[irnivek]

Yep. Do good work, it takes good equipment, and stand behind it, maybe there will be enough money to replace the beat up equipment in a few years. There will always be the ones working for "beer money;" extra money on their income. I find $20/acre, $55.00 and hour is as cheap as I care to go, carrying excavating insurance. I can "lose" money playing with my kids and my tractor doesn't get beat up.
Indy, I am in Fredericksburg area, just moved to S. Indiana. Hope I'm not stepping on your toes, but it looks like I won't drive your prices down too much.
Kevin

 

[Indydirtfarmer]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Yep. Do good work, it takes good equipment, and stand behind it, maybe there will be enough money to replace the beat up equipment in a few years. There will always be the ones working for "beer money;" extra money on their income. I find $20/acre, $55.00 and hour is as cheap as I care to go, carrying excavating insurance. I can "lose" money playing with my kids and my tractor doesn't get beat up.
Indy, I am in Fredericksburg area, just moved to S. Indiana. Hope I'm not stepping on your toes, but it looks like I won't drive your prices down too much.
Kevin )</font>

I never mind some competition! Grrrrrrrrrrrrr!

Seriously, You're just about on the fringes of my "territory". And there's plenty work to go around. I get calls all the time for work in your area. Most is what I consider smaller jobs. (5 acres and down....plus a lot of garden plowing/tilling) I'll send you a Personal Message with my phone #. I can't give a good price on jobs that size, that far from home. I'd be glad to refer them to someone else, rather than just saying no to a paying customer....

Oh yeah....Welcome neighbor! (I actually live in Louisville, but we farm not too far from Hanover Indiana)

 

[Indydirtfarmer]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( I'd rather charge by the acre; for the reason stated plus the fact that there would be no pressure to run "balls out". It's a new rig and I don't push it too hard on my own fields. On a strange field where "who knows what" is hidden in the grass, I'm even less inclined to hammer it. I'll probably leave the FEL on and use it as a trash detector.

How do you determine how close to cut? Do you ask the landowner what he wants or do you simply set the hog at a height unlikely to scalp or bottom out? Rocks are a big issue around here as well.

Thanks to all for the inputs.
Bob )</font>

I usually cut as short as conditions will allow. Most of my contract work with state/county/local governments, and several commercial accounts will specify a cutting hieghth. On ground that's not been mowed recently, or that I've never mowed, I won't cut much shorter than 4" to 5". (several regular jobs I do see as tall as 8") In any event, I won't scalp.....Just too rough on equipment.

 

[slowzuki]

I noticed someone mention using the loader as a landmine detector for the hog. I've tried it and found with the loader blocking the view, anything it hits I have run over with my tires and sometimes the hog by the time I get stopped.

I've found affording the best possible front view reduces the number of rocks or fence posts I run over. This means taking the bucket or whole loader off.

Anyone else find this?