headlights vs. work lights

[jimmysisson]

I'm hoping to install three 55 watt work lights on my Ford 2120 cab. I want to use the tractor's headlight switch to run two front and one rear lights. I will abandon the tractor headlights themselves since the loader pretty much blocks them. The owners manual doesn't help with switch or bulb ratings (or a wiring diagram, or even the bulb numbers) so does anyone know if the switch will take the load? How can I tell how much the two standard headlights draw vs. the 55watt halogens? How much fuse would that require? Headlight fuse now is 15A. Thanks, Jim

 

[dmccarty]

Jimmysisson,

Have you looked at the headlamps to see if they have the wattage? I would guess they wattage is stamped on the bulbs. Might have to take them out to look on the back side if they are not stamped on the front.

Can't help with the switch question.

I had to take off my work lights since they kept getting hung up in trees. /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif On day I will figure out a way to mount/dismount the lights quickly so I can just put them up as needed....

Don't forget to point some light(s) backward. I did not and wish I had done so.

Later,
Dan

 

[daTeacha]

The quick and dirty solution is probably best on this one. Use relays to power your lights. They're cheap, readily available at auto parts places, and will take the heavy load off your lighting circuit.

FYI, a relay is simply an electrically activated switch that connects heavy gauge wires to your equipment while allowing light wires to and from your switches. It saves the switch from burning out while providing maximum power to your lights.

Use the search feature to find threads on here about lighting. There is a lot of information and many links that will help you out.

 

[BobReeves]

15 ams at 12 volts is 180 watts, three 55 watt bulbs will draw 13.75 amps at 12 volts. It will work but not much of a fudge factor.

Use a relay and a 20 amp fuse for the new lights.

 

[LBrown59]

<font color="blue">On day I will figure out a way to mount/dismount the lights quickly so I can just put them up as needed....
</font>
<font color="orange"> ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ </font>

Here's how.
<font color="red"> This method lets you easly remove the light bar and unplug the light wire. </font>
************

Here are some thoughts I've been kicking around concerning lights on rops.
1. Use two lights rather than 4 lights. Mount them on a light bar that will swivel the lights up and down. I install the lights on the bar in a manner that will permit the lights to be rotated 360 degrees. The 360 degrees allows you to have light to the rear and front or both to the front or both to the rear.
Use magnets to mount the brackets for the light bar to the top rear edge of the rops instead of on top of the rops or under the top of the rops. Next bolt the ends of the light bar to the brackets with one bolt through each bracket into the bar.
Tighten the bolts just enough to hold the bar in place but loose enough to move it by hand. The swiveling light bar allows:
(A) Allows adjustment of the distance the lights shine out from the tractor.
(B) Gives more clearance above the lights and more head room under them.
(C) Lessens the chance of catching the lights on something overhead.
(D) Allows the lights to flip down if hit rather than breaking them.
(E) <font color="red"> You can just flip the lights down to work under low hanging branches instead of having to remove them from the rops. However you still have the Quick/Easy option of removing the bar and lights and unplugging the trailer connector.
</font> *Advantages of the 360 degree rotation *
(A) Permits two lights instead of requiring 4 lights, thus reducing current flow.
(B) Lights can be turned both to front or both to rear. Or they can be turned one to front and one to rear. They can also be used for side lighting. Swiveling lights can provide illumination 360 degrees around the tractor.

Adjustment from one position to another is instant by hand. No wrenches or tools required.
A low profile light preferred over high profile lights.

I've been using this system of combining a rotating light bar with swivel mounted lights to install fog and driving lights on my pickups successfully for years.

More thoughts on lights.
Use a dual direction light with a clear lens on both sides that will cast light to the front and rear at the same time.

Thinking about experimenting with a hanging swing light magnetically attached to the cross member of the FEL to illuminate the bucket shadow when using the head lights.

 

[kennyd]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( The quick and dirty solution is probably best on this one. Use relays to power your lights. They're cheap, readily available at auto parts places, and will take the heavy load off your lighting circuit.
)</font>

This is the absolute best way to do this! The new relay can be triggered from you factory light switch.

 

[NY_Yankees_Fan]

Jim,

This is how I did it with help from Pineridge.

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