Got my hurricane flooded tractor to work.

[CajunRider]

4 weeks and $5000 lighter, I finally got the DK45 back and running. I worry about premature rust. I still have two heavily damaged houses to fix so time is a at a premium. I'd like to find some way that I can defer repainting the tractor to some time in the future. What would you suggest?

BTW, suggestions from this forum helped keep me from having to buy a new engine. We just had to take it apart and rebuild with new rings and bearings. Thanks to all.

 

[TheKid]

I use a 50/50 mixture of shellac and denatured alcohol for a water proofer/rust sealer. It can be brushed or sprayed and is thin enough flow into those hard to reach places. It's impervious to gas, diesel, and petroleum based solvents. When you get ready to paint, a rag with a little alcohol on it will wipe it right off.

I've got an old brake rotor and axel that has an sprinkler mounted on top of it that doesn't have any rust after 2 summers of use.

 

[beenthere]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( I use a 50/50 mixture of shellac and denatured alcohol for a water proofer/rust sealer. It can be brushed or sprayed and is thin enough flow into those hard to reach places. ....When you get ready to paint, a rag with a little alcohol on it will wipe it right off. )</font>

Sounds like a good hint to remember, but how do you get it out of those 'hard to reach' places with just a rag??

 

[BigDogues]

Seems to me a really good wash all over, inside and out, with warm soapy water should get rid of just about all of the salt residue. If possible, use a pressure washer connected to a hot water line to get all the nooks and crannies. The salt water is not going to penetrate the paint so as long as you get all of the surfaces that the sea water might stand in, like pipes or tubes, you should be fine. You can always follow up with a squirt of WD-40 on any exposed metal surfaces that you think might be prone to rust. And be sure to grease all fittings well after to push out any residue that might have gotten in there. Then give your baby a nice coat of wax and you should be fine.

 

[TheKid]

If you can't reach some places don't worry about it. You can paint right over the shellac.

 

[CajunRider]

Thanks everyone. Sound like a good wash and shellac+alcohol is in order.

 

[LBrown59]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( 4 weeks and $5000 lighter, I finally got the DK45 back and running. I worry about premature rust. I still have two heavily damaged houses to fix so time is a at a premium. I'd like to find some way that I can defer repainting the tractor to some time in the future. What would you suggest?

BTW, suggestions from this forum helped keep me from having to buy a new engine. We just had to take it apart and rebuild with new rings and bearings. Thanks to all. )</font>

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Why didn't the insurance Co. pay for any of the damage?

 

[CajunRider]

Long story.
When I bought the tractor I called my insurance agent and asked if I needed extra insurance, the answer was no. It should be covered under my current house personal belonging. When I started building my new house, I asked if I need to buy personal belonging coverage for the tractor and the advise was no because I am not living out there. Now that the tractor is flooded the answer was that by federal law the flood coverage has to be from the location of the damage. Since my flood coverage at my construction site does not cover personal belonging, I am SOL.

 

[JustGary]

I'd say the pressure washer is a great idea, and to do it several times with plenty of detergent and then power rinse. The more times the better, and from every angle possible. I think that when summer time comes and the humidity gets real bad again that you'll see more rust spots come along than you will during the winter. Do what you can now to slow the inevitable.

I also like the shellac idea to slow down the rust. No matter what you use you're just sealing in the remaining salt and trying to keep out the oxygen. I would not use WD-40 unless you plan to use it once a week. You'd have better luck with motor oil, or better yet LPS3 , a waxy, spray-on grease made to stick, seal, and prevent rust. It's good stuff.

I would strongly consider degreasing and sandblasting as much as you can when you do get ready to paint. That's really the only way to get down to fresh metal without just sealing in the salt. Prime with a good epoxy primer before painting. Do not use Ospho if you use the epoxy primer.

On the other hand, the cast parts will probably last a very long time even after the saltwater bath. Perhaps your main focus (after the pressure wash cycles) is hose fittings and sheet metal. Your houses are certainly the better investment for you (both time and money), so I think if it were mine I'd just use the shellac wash and then LPS3 on unpainted parts, then drive it until it rusts out from under me.

Good luck!

- Just Gary

 

[deerhunterf350]

Also may want to Try AMSOIL MP Heavy Duty it is a Areosol Spray Lubricant/Metal Protectant. I attached a link, this stuff sprays on thin, and when it dries it has a pretty tuff waxy film, it may be hard to remove to get clean metal for a new Paint job. May only want to use it in areas that you want to keep from Rusting , that you are not going to repaint. web page