1st Tractor - several questions 1952 Ferguson TO30

[JoshJ]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( By the looks of the broken wheel, to me someone has added a yoke that won't caster. It needs a bent arm from the pivot down to the axle to caster.
)</font>

Good call. If not a bent arm, then atleast something to get the center of the wheel offset from line of pivot. Perhaps a piece between the yoke and the housing for the wheel

For the 3pt, any way you can adjust it so that full down will not scalp while mowing? If not then chains would be the way to go.

Dont be discouraged, your frustrations so far seem simple. Also, dont beat yourself up trying to figure something out yourself when there are plenty of other here who have "been there" and can help you (and everyone else) out. /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif

PS Draft control is based off of forces in the top link. It maintains a constant force on on 3pt. Too much, and it will raise, too little and it will lower (Thats my best take at it). Best suited for ground-engaging work (like plows so you can maintain depth until something might break), not mowers and the like.

 

[JoshJ]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( By the looks of the broken wheel, to me someone has added a yoke that won't caster. It needs a bent arm from the pivot down to the axle to caster.
)</font>

Good call. If not a bent arm, then atleast something to get the center of the wheel offset from line of pivot. Perhaps a piece between the yoke and the housing for the wheel

For the 3pt, any way you can adjust it so that full down will not scalp while mowing? If not then chains would be the way to go.

Dont be discouraged, your frustrations so far seem simple. Also, dont beat yourself up trying to figure something out yourself when there are plenty of other here who have "been there" and can help you (and everyone else) out. /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif

PS Draft control is based off of forces in the top link. It maintains a constant force on on 3pt. Too much, and it will raise, too little and it will lower (Thats my best take at it). Best suited for ground-engaging work (like plows so you can maintain depth until something might break), not mowers and the like.

 

[chabat124]

On the RC wheel, you are all correct. The thing was in a 90 degree position with the shaft. The wheel holder was not angles at all. Someone had chewed it up pretty good with some sort of tool and did a weld with poor penetration. None of that would matter though unless it was at an angle like it was supposed to be. The wheel holder (yoke?) looked home-made with a cutting torch. Maybe whoever made it didn't realize it needed to be at an angle to trail properly. /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif

I checked what I believe was the hydraulic fluid level earlier and it was two things: Below the LOW mark and also it was milky like chocolate milk. I have not purchased a manual yet, so I don't yet know all of the in's and outs. This dipstick was directly below the seat.

How many fluids are there to check? Radiator, engine oil, and hydraulic fluid? Does the transmission have a separate oil filler/dipstick than the hydraulics?

*****attached pic of milky leakage and what I think is the hydraulic dipstick*********

 

[chabat124]

On the RC wheel, you are all correct. The thing was in a 90 degree position with the shaft. The wheel holder was not angles at all. Someone had chewed it up pretty good with some sort of tool and did a weld with poor penetration. None of that would matter though unless it was at an angle like it was supposed to be. The wheel holder (yoke?) looked home-made with a cutting torch. Maybe whoever made it didn't realize it needed to be at an angle to trail properly. /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif

I checked what I believe was the hydraulic fluid level earlier and it was two things: Below the LOW mark and also it was milky like chocolate milk. I have not purchased a manual yet, so I don't yet know all of the in's and outs. This dipstick was directly below the seat.

How many fluids are there to check? Radiator, engine oil, and hydraulic fluid? Does the transmission have a separate oil filler/dipstick than the hydraulics?

*****attached pic of milky leakage and what I think is the hydraulic dipstick*********

 

[KiotiJohn]

Milky oils mean you have water infiltration. This can definitely lead to problems of all sort. Your engine oil would be the same if it got water in it.

You need to determine where water may be getting in. Sorry if I was incorrect on your hitch model. My brother has a TO35, but I found out that his hitch is not the original, but modifed so that he can set it, then return to neutral. My old 8N had also been modified years before I bought it, and it was the same way.

If it weren't so late, I'd call my brother and ask if there is any other location you need to check, I can't remember the layout of his tractor. I don't think there is a separate dipstick, and you need to find the transmission screen and make sure it is clean.

Someone else with a TO 30 may respond and be able to tell you exactly where everything is.

You may wish to purchase this video to help you with the hydraulics on your model. This will tell you how to adjust and repair your system. I suspect that you'll find with new oil, things will be somewhat better, but that milky fluid has not been lubricating properly and may have caused some damge. Also, I think you use a heavier fluid than would be used in a modern tractor. I'll check with my brother to find out what he's using in this 35.
TO 30 video, third listing down

John

 

[KiotiJohn]

Milky oils mean you have water infiltration. This can definitely lead to problems of all sort. Your engine oil would be the same if it got water in it.

You need to determine where water may be getting in. Sorry if I was incorrect on your hitch model. My brother has a TO35, but I found out that his hitch is not the original, but modifed so that he can set it, then return to neutral. My old 8N had also been modified years before I bought it, and it was the same way.

If it weren't so late, I'd call my brother and ask if there is any other location you need to check, I can't remember the layout of his tractor. I don't think there is a separate dipstick, and you need to find the transmission screen and make sure it is clean.

Someone else with a TO 30 may respond and be able to tell you exactly where everything is.

You may wish to purchase this video to help you with the hydraulics on your model. This will tell you how to adjust and repair your system. I suspect that you'll find with new oil, things will be somewhat better, but that milky fluid has not been lubricating properly and may have caused some damge. Also, I think you use a heavier fluid than would be used in a modern tractor. I'll check with my brother to find out what he's using in this 35.
TO 30 video, third listing down

John

 

[Farmwithjunk]

The throttle sounds like a typical Ferguson/ Massey Ferguson problem. The throttle uses a friction disc, sandwiched between two CORK washers, held in tension with a spider-shaped spring/washer, and adjusted with a pre-load nut. The cork washers wear out. They don't need oil, they need NEW cork washers. They're available at Massey dealers, or can be made from 1/8" cork sheet. The "spider" washer SOMETIMES will shed a few of it's "legs" If so, replace it. When these items wear, the throttle gets sloppy. Then people tighten the pre-load nut to get it to hold in place. That makes it bind, and makes it "jumpy" when you try to move it. It'll jump in big RPM increments, rather than smooth progressive movements. Usually, the throttle lever has "free play" when the metal friction disc gets worn. (It has a key-way that hold it to the throttle lever. That keyway wears. If so. replace the friction disc also) The entire re-build will cost about $15, and take all of 10 minutes.

Get the check chains that were mentioned. The older Fergies had no signs of position control. With age, the draft control gets to where it doesn't want to stay in one spot. Also, by a little of your description, I'd guess you might have a weak "Master control spring". That is right in front of where the 3-point top link attaches to the back of the tractor. (Under the seat) It has a pre-load adjustment too.

Get on "Yesterdays Tractor" and go to the Massey site. Call out for help top "Big Dean" Austin. He's the ultimate authority on Ferguson/Massey Ferguson tractors. He's got CD's available on your tractor (Around $25 or $30 bucks?) They'll walk you through diagnosing your problems.

That tail wheel looks a lot like what comes on King Kutter mowers. You can get the part through TSC (At least the TSC nearest me has one on their shelves)

Get Big Deans CD, Get every available shop manual, owners manual, and parts manual for your tractor. Read them cover to cover. Your problems aren't too serious, and those tractors are about as basic and simple as it gets. Pick on ONE problem at a time, and start fixing.

 

[Farmwithjunk]

The throttle sounds like a typical Ferguson/ Massey Ferguson problem. The throttle uses a friction disc, sandwiched between two CORK washers, held in tension with a spider-shaped spring/washer, and adjusted with a pre-load nut. The cork washers wear out. They don't need oil, they need NEW cork washers. They're available at Massey dealers, or can be made from 1/8" cork sheet. The "spider" washer SOMETIMES will shed a few of it's "legs" If so, replace it. When these items wear, the throttle gets sloppy. Then people tighten the pre-load nut to get it to hold in place. That makes it bind, and makes it "jumpy" when you try to move it. It'll jump in big RPM increments, rather than smooth progressive movements. Usually, the throttle lever has "free play" when the metal friction disc gets worn. (It has a key-way that hold it to the throttle lever. That keyway wears. If so. replace the friction disc also) The entire re-build will cost about $15, and take all of 10 minutes.

Get the check chains that were mentioned. The older Fergies had no signs of position control. With age, the draft control gets to where it doesn't want to stay in one spot. Also, by a little of your description, I'd guess you might have a weak "Master control spring". That is right in front of where the 3-point top link attaches to the back of the tractor. (Under the seat) It has a pre-load adjustment too.

Get on "Yesterdays Tractor" and go to the Massey site. Call out for help top "Big Dean" Austin. He's the ultimate authority on Ferguson/Massey Ferguson tractors. He's got CD's available on your tractor (Around $25 or $30 bucks?) They'll walk you through diagnosing your problems.

That tail wheel looks a lot like what comes on King Kutter mowers. You can get the part through TSC (At least the TSC nearest me has one on their shelves)

Get Big Deans CD, Get every available shop manual, owners manual, and parts manual for your tractor. Read them cover to cover. Your problems aren't too serious, and those tractors are about as basic and simple as it gets. Pick on ONE problem at a time, and start fixing.

 

[Hib]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Does the transmission have a separate oil filler/dipstick than the hydraulics? )</font>

No. Tranny uses the same fluid as well as the diff.

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Below the LOW mark and also it was milky like chocolate milk. )</font>

Chocalate milk is BAD, bad like water, it needs drained and flushed.

These tractors call for a 80/90 wt mineral oil (GL1), the Massey Ferguson number is M1103. The pumps have brass parts that will corrode with the use of newer hydraulic fluids (GL3, 4 or 5). It will hold 5 gallons or more so have buckets handy before draining. There are three plugs that must be opened. Then let it sit overnight or so. It will continue draining slowly because of the water and accumulated sludge. Then rinse with a lot of kerosene.

Before draining, take the two round covers off each side of case (dipstick goes in one) look inside with flashlight while tractor is running and raising hitch. Anyplace you can see oil spraying/dripping is a leak that causes your 3pt to drop and needs fixed. DO NOT put your fingers in there while tractor is running /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif
You get yourself a repair manual and jump right in. It's not all that difficult.....just takes some time. Been there, done it.

 

[Hib]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Does the transmission have a separate oil filler/dipstick than the hydraulics? )</font>

No. Tranny uses the same fluid as well as the diff.

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Below the LOW mark and also it was milky like chocolate milk. )</font>

Chocalate milk is BAD, bad like water, it needs drained and flushed.

These tractors call for a 80/90 wt mineral oil (GL1), the Massey Ferguson number is M1103. The pumps have brass parts that will corrode with the use of newer hydraulic fluids (GL3, 4 or 5). It will hold 5 gallons or more so have buckets handy before draining. There are three plugs that must be opened. Then let it sit overnight or so. It will continue draining slowly because of the water and accumulated sludge. Then rinse with a lot of kerosene.

Before draining, take the two round covers off each side of case (dipstick goes in one) look inside with flashlight while tractor is running and raising hitch. Anyplace you can see oil spraying/dripping is a leak that causes your 3pt to drop and needs fixed. DO NOT put your fingers in there while tractor is running /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif
You get yourself a repair manual and jump right in. It's not all that difficult.....just takes some time. Been there, done it.