What size beam do I need?

[riprap]

Originally Posted by BTDT

If the frame has been in a fire, it's junk. Lost it's temper.

Do they actually use a high strength tempered steel for these frames ? I would have thought it was just basic Hot/Cold rolled A-36 type stuff.

In any case, since you never know what you have when buying scrap, you should simply design your part assuming it is a soft low carbon steel and will work without going past the yeild strength of such a material - say 30Ksi. Assuming your steel is not heat warped excessively for your use, I dont see the risk in using material that has been in a fire.

If you are counting on the strength of a 50-60ksi alloy, you also need to be considering the effects of welding, surface treatment, etc etc.

[MarkV]

Just a thought here. I made a small bridge that spans about 8’ out of the ramps from a vehicle lift. This was the kind of lift that had a large center cylinder and the ramps plus the center mount form a large “H”. I’m not sure what the loading specs would be but a mechanic friend tells me he has had some large trucks on his without any noticeable deflection. The ramps are normally 16’ long so they would have to be cut to the size you needed. I like the idea of making side boards for your truck out of temporary ramps.

MarkV

[patrick_g]

I have a friend about a mile from me whose driveway crosses a creek that makes his bridge over 30 ft long. He built it with frames from old mobile homes. It is the best and strongest DIY bridge I have ever seen. It doesn't mind any of his equipment or the 18 wheeler used to take his calves to auction.

Old mobile home frames are a good source of steel but I would be leary of any that were in a fire or that are very heavily corroded.

Pat

[Ford960]

I going to stick my neck out a bit and add my ideas to this question.

Make the bridge as a trailer that you haul your machine on, then when you come across a stream that you need to cross use the machine to put the trailer wheels in the stream and just drive the machine over the trailer from one end to the other. If the stream isn't deep enough then the trailer/bridge will just teeter on the wheels as you travel from on end to the other.
I would imagine that your ASV has enough power to move, position, and drag the trailer back out of the stream.
The best hitch type would be a pintle with a removable tongue jack.

Just a thought.

[MrJimi]

how about you go to your local steel supplier and buy a serious piece of channel 20 feet long and have it cut in half, it comes 20 feet long and ask about the strength of the steel and get it a little wider than your tracks
just another idea and tell the guy what your machine weighs with your attachment and he can let you know what size will work, I am expecting a huge piece
In my garage for the second floor, I bought a 16 inch H beam, it weighs 31 pounds per foot and it real strong, here is picture of it

Jim

[sandman2234]

I have stripped out several mobile home trailers that went thru fires. 4 have been made into trailers, one for a dozer (used 4 ibeams for that one) and one was used to haul my 40' container the 2 times I moved it myself. Both times it was transported loaded with all types of junk.
Since heat goes up, most of the time the frame makes it thru it alright. If it is a total loss, the embers piled under it might do some damage, but I think it would have to be a total burnout to cause that much damage.
Overbuild it and test it with twice the weight your ever plan on putting on it and then let it go to work.
David from jax

[Robbie Hegwood]

Hey Rutwad

I also have used railroad ties to make a bridge. They are realitively easy to move and fairly strong. Matter of fact I even left the bridge for future access.

My only real input is heavily consider having to move and deal with whatever you choose.....Yourself. Can you load/unload easily and get it into position over any terrain??? Also about slots for your bucket, that's not a good idea. It will either bend your bucket, bend your cylinders(seen that happen) or wind up being to heavy for your machine. It would be better to drag to location and then maybe use your bucket or by then maybe your grapple. that's what I used and it worked great.

Just my .02 cents. As far as using them as side rails that is a good idea. good place to haul them also. You would have th space them up a bit for your tractor tie downs. Robbie

[NewToy]

Originally Posted by MrJimi

how about you go to your local steel supplier and buy a serious piece of channel 20 feet long and have it cut in half, it comes 20 feet long and ask about the strength of the steel and get it a little wider than your tracks
just another idea and tell the guy what your machine weighs with your attachment and he can let you know what size will work, I am expecting a huge piece
In my garage for the second floor, I bought a 16 inch H beam, it weighs 31 pounds per foot and it real strong, here is picture of it

Jim

MrJim, You need to get after that garage. Is your tractor in there somewhere?

jOHN

[MrJimi]

Yes, John, Its just to the left of that picture and I'm not fortunate enough to own a tractor, I own a Case 1845 C skidsteer almost a tractor
Jim

[NewToy]

The skidder is a very versatile piece of equipment. My FIL has a couple of Bobcat's that we can borrow for chores around the house. They sure come in handy. My wife can operate them much better than I can. I have that herky-jerky thing going on when I'm at the controls. If the work requires the machine be any closer than 6' or so to the house my wife takes over. She has a very smooth touch and can really make me look silly. She has alot more seat time than I. There is a bit of a learning curve in the proficient operation of those rascals. Take care MrJimi!

John