What size beam do I need?

[rutwad]

I have ran into two situartions recently where a couple of short beams could have really helped me out. And I figure I will find myself in a similiar situation again.

What size steel beam would I need for a 14000 lb ASV RC100 to cross a 6' span. The ASV's track is 6' on the ground. Anybody know how to figure what it would take?

 

[daTeacha]

The bridge over the creek at my Izaak Walton League chapter spans about 30 or 35 feet. It's decked with nominal 4" thick heavily treated pine. The supporting beams are about 12" I beams (I never actually measured them), but I don't know how thick the steel is or what type of steel it is. We drive cars and tractors over the bridge with no problem. This probably isn't very helpful, but at least you know someone read your post.

 

[shaley]

A single W6x9 simply supported with a span of 6' will hold 14,000 point loaded, center span with a 2:1 safety factor if my calculations are right. Deflection will be about 0.25 inches. I can't say what size beam you will need. Before you take any risk what so ever, make up a sketch and walk into any professional engineers office in your area and ask him your question. Show him the sketch and explain you do not want him to certify or stamp anything you just want a guestimate. He should be able to tell you at no charge.

 

[sandman2234]

If you are ever coming to Jax, and plan on bringing your machine, I will give you the beams just to get a chance to eyeball the durn thing and see it work for 15 minutes!
Some of those really heavy duty dock plates might work for what you need if six foot will span the gap your talking about. Personally, I would opt for finding some used, or buy just one and cut it in half, so that you have a little more than 6', because the next time is going to need 7' if you cut them to 6'.
David from jax

 

[BTDT]

Is this something for your place, or are you going to haul it around with you from jobsite to jobsite? You might be able to pick up an old 18 wheeler flatbed trailer (float) cheap, if you need to cross a creek or something on your place (they are 40' long) and plenty strong, just take the wheels and axles off and make a bridge out of it. But if it needs to be portable, that's a different story.

 

[gordon21]

Rutwad: How about using some old trailer (mobile home) frame steel? It should be readily available in your area and relatively cheap. Ask local fire depts where they recently went on trailer fires.

 

[BTDT]

Rutwad: How about using some old trailer (mobile home) frame steel? It should be readily available in your area and relatively cheap. Ask local fire depts where they recently went on trailer fires.

If the frame has been in a fire, it's junk. Lost it's temper.

 

[gordon21]

Would that apply to the entire length? I have seen people use these fire leftovers to build personal car haulers, etc. If the frame was originally 65'-70' long, could you use the 15-20' at the end away from the fire? This assumes that the fire was put out before the whole thing burned up and that most of the heat was 50' away.

 

[BTDT]

Would that apply to the entire length? I have seen people use these fire leftovers to build personal car haulers, etc. If the frame was originally 65'-70' long, could you use the 15-20' at the end away from the fire? This assumes that the fire was put out before the whole thing burned up and that most of the heat was 50' away.

That would probably be ok. I don't think I've ever seen one that didn't completely burn up, but I guess if it is close to town and near a fire dept. that could happen.

 

[rutwad]

I can probably get some steel drop pieces from a local shop for not much more than scrap price. I could have used them at a job site Thursday to cross only a 20" stream. Cross-ties would have probably worked, but loading them and taking with me seemed like to much trouble at the time.

I want something to use as a quick temporary install, remove as needed at jobsites. Some steel beams approx. 8 1/2' long. Then I could have a lip welded to one end of each beam along the top with a gap just large enough to slide my bucket into. This way I could easily transport and install them. And when I finish working across the stream, hopefully I could just as easily remove them and take with me.

It may end up really looking stupid and I may not do it, but I am thinking about welding pieces vertically along the side edge extending beyond the bottom. Then I could use them as inserts to stick into the stake-body slots (can't think of what they are really called) along the edges of my flatbed truck. There when I need them, and out of the way when I don't.