mower deck ate my bracket to 3pt hitch

[jsborn]

I would Go with option 2 and 3.

Option 3 would get me the new tools and while I was practicing and learning I would need to get my tractor back in service that's where option 2 comes in.

Some where in there my wife would catch one and it might cost me a trip to the beach but that's not a bad trade.

 

[montejw]

Rats! You cancelled out my best advice!

But seriously, a welder can fix anything made of metal. It's just a matter of cost. On your part, it needs to have the old stuff taken off, then a new strap with slot milled ($) then that strap welded on.....

That part could have been TIG welded back as strong as new by a good weldor and good preparation.

 

[Soundguy]

I wouldn't even consider welding that one up.. and I can make good ugly welds myself for free.. Only way i would weld it is if I needed it to get out o fthe field i was broken down in.. then I would weld it up.. and get home.. or finish the job if it was strong enough.. then replece it... Welding something like that would be like welding a broken lug stud...

soundguy

I have a 4110 J/D and last weekend a pin feel out of the linkage to the 3 pt hitch to the left arm of the deck, while going backwards the arm went under the deck. The photos shows wat is left of the turn buckle.

Question. Can this be taken to a welding shop and fixed. Or am I better getting a new part at the tune of about 110 to 120 dollars.

It seem it is about 3/8 or so very strong steel, I think.

Any welder out there that can give me some advise.

Thank for any help or ideas. Oh I already know do not do that.

Roger

 

[MJPetersen]

Come on guys that is not so thin that you would need tig. It is almost as thick as the pen so that makes it about 1/4 in. right? Just break it off, straighten it out, clean up edge, and lay a couple of hot beads on it. I probably would also fill in the gap between the slotted pieces additionally 1/2-3/4 in with something and weld it up.

OR and better yet: It is not a precision piece and does not need to be exact with precise tolerences. You could make a whole new side if you wanted. Angle grind off the broken piece and get a piece of steel strap the right length and thickness. Drill an appropriate size hole at each end of the slot and cut it out with the angle grinder and a cutting blade. Then weld it on in place of the old and it would be just like new. Probably would not cost $10 and an hour of time.

Mike

 

[rcmike]

I think it could be welded pretty easily really. I have some just like it for my 4010 and they are thicker than that picture makes them look. I would flatten the bent up part out first though so the pin wouldn't have any problems sliding in it. You could always weld something along the joint on the outside to reinforce it also.

 

[montejw]

Come on guys that is not so thin that you would need tig....

TIG isn't only for thin stuff. The reason I mentioned TIG was because it's only about 1" across, you have better control with TIG. TIG would be a good first choice if the choice was there, but stick or wire would work too.

 

[zzvyb6]

You are not exactly correct in describing the situation. This (your) part looks familiar because I have 2 of them on my shelf, unused. This "part" called a lift rod) is actually 2 parts and one(clevis) is slightly bent and the other (lift rod) is about to break if you straighten it. This 2 part link is usually part of a mid-mount mower lift system using cams on the rear 3pt lift arms to pull these links to raise the mower on a lot of JD tractors. I'll bet you can find one from another mower in the on-line JD part system that is identical and has a separate part number (just the broken part of the 2 piece link), I'd guess its a $20 to $25 part all gold plated as such if that's what Mom insists on. As such you ought to do the following:

Unscrew the 2 piece link. Break off the twisted link, put it on you sidewalk and hammer it flat. Get the broken part welded by someone. This could be by yourself at a welding 101 class Adult Ed at the high school. Or have some kid weld it at the school shop. The part is small enough so that you could mail it to one of us and we could weld it for you no-charge (you pay Fed-Ex).

Meanwhile, use a short length of dog chain to substitute for this link until its fixed. All you need to do is measure the length of the other lift rod/clevis link. The price you quote is for the entire link, cam, pins, bolts, yadda, yadda that the tractor would need if you were adding the mower as a kit.

As I said this is the same double adjust link I have on my 15 year old 72" mid mount mower.

Don't make this a debilitating issue. If this is all that ever happens to this tractor it will be a miracle, indeed.

An a/c used buzzbox welder can fix this in 14 seconds (7.0 per side). Practice for 10 minutes and then buzz it.

Or, take it to a muffler shop, pay the guy 5 bucks to do it for you and walk away. Send it my way and I'll be happy to do it for you (U pay 2 way shipping). Meanwhile I will try to find the part number for the lift rod on my mower. It will help if you post the total length of the good link. Dimension is end to end in my assembly diagrahm.

 

[zzvyb6]

I found your link in the JD on-line part system you can use yourself. It under "Tractor mounted rotary mowers".

Your broken link rod is AM38764 and the clevis is AM38768.

If they are over $100, you'd better get a kiss with it.

Have your dealer check it for you but get a new spare and weld the old one.

Good luck.

 

[zzvyb6]

Look familiar???

 

[mechanic]

If it were mine I would remove the other one to have something to work from, straighten the broken out and reweld it. The metal is thick enough that even a stick welder would work.