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#291 (permalink) | |
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Elite Member
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: South Central OK
Posts: 2,765
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Quote:
HF has a circular saw blade sharpener now too. Someone buy one, use it, and report back how well it works. Pat
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Never wrestle with a pig (however titled) as you just get dirty and the pig has all the fun. |
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#292 (permalink) |
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Platinum Member
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: New England
Posts: 828
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here is a link to it
Harbor Freight Tools - Quality Tools at the Lowest Prices interesting I have bought some of the carbide cheap blades fro HF and had good luck Even though they are carbide, I was about ot somewhat sharpen them with the angle grinder, enough to cut scrap wood for the wood fire. It had a diamond blade, so would that sharpen the carbide blades?
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silenced1206 |
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#293 (permalink) |
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Gold Member
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Virginia
Posts: 268
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1) HF Steering wheel puller with tray $9. 1987, Excellent. Tray has disintegrated.
2) HF SDS Rotary Hammer Drill $60 +-?, extra bits $9.99. Works great after heavy usage so far 2 yrs. 3) HF axle puller (solid slide and rail), not hollow pipe type, $19? Late 80's. Threads on slide approximately 50+% depth of attaching axle/ bearing accessories and stripped after moderate usage. Recommend rethreading and using graded nut.
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He who is full loathes honey, but to the hungry even what is bitter tastes sweet. |
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#294 (permalink) | |
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Veteran Member
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Ozark Mountains in Arkansas
Posts: 1,618
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Quote:
Would you be able to sharpen your saw blades with a regular blade sharpener I thought those were special blades. |
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#295 (permalink) | |
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Elite Member
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: South Central OK
Posts: 2,765
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Quote:
Bedlam, diamond tools are what you use to make/sharpen carbide tools. Pat
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Never wrestle with a pig (however titled) as you just get dirty and the pig has all the fun. |
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#296 (permalink) |
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Veteran Member
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Grants Pass, OR
Posts: 1,146
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Diamond is great for sharpening anything that is not iron or steel, which includes carbide.
Do not use diamond on iron or steel. Hot iron dissolves carbon (which is what diamonds are made of). I know you have heard of carbon steel, which is just steel with carbon dissolved in it. You will wear out your diamond tool in no time at all. About the only practical exception is diamond knife sharpeners, which never get hot enough for the knife blade to attack the diamond.
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40 Acres on a hill - fantastic view. JD 110 TLB, 4-n-1, 12" bucket, 18" bucket, Addington thumb, rock bucket (doubles as root grapple) |
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#297 (permalink) | |
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Platinum Member
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: New England
Posts: 828
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Quote:
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silenced1206 |
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#298 (permalink) | |
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Veteran Member
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Ozark Mountains in Arkansas
Posts: 1,618
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Quote:
You have the blade that stops before cutting flesh can you sharpen that with a regular circular blade sharpener |
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#299 (permalink) | |
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Elite Member
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: South Central OK
Posts: 2,765
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Quote:
This includes the typical 8 inch dado sets. You have to change the brake cartridge back and forth between the 10 inch and 8 inch when you change back and forth between a 10 inch blade and the dado set. Changing the brake cartridge adds a minute or three to the blade change but is pretty simple and straight forward. It is really easy to change the blade and also easy to change the brake cartridge. So far I have not touched the blade but did have an "incident" where a taper jig (aluminum) touched the side of the blade. Suddenly there just wasn't a blade to be seen. Faster than your eye can follow the blade is stopped and retracted below the table. The blade is toast and embedded in the aluminum brake mechanism after an emergency stop. Luckily it was the blade that came with the saw and I had used it a lot so no big deal as they don't give you the worlds best blade for free with the saw anyway. So as far as I know, sharpening a blade for this saw is the same as for any other standard table saw. Pat
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Never wrestle with a pig (however titled) as you just get dirty and the pig has all the fun. |
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#300 (permalink) |
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Veteran Member
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Ozark Mountains in Arkansas
Posts: 1,618
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I am going to post this for Pats benefit but it occured to me there might be others who are interested so I will post it here. The guy I work with has a harbor freight bender. Pat asked me if he had any tips on using it and this is what my friend told me he does. Do not let the metal move once you start bending it. If the bender pulls it into the bend it will mess up your results. If he is bending solid stock he just uses a vicegrip or something like that and clamps it to the stock next to the die. If he is using tubing he drills a hole in the tubing next to where he is going to make the bend. He puts something into the hole so that the tubing cannot be pulled into the die and then makes his bend. I have seen the BMW replicate sidecar he made for his bmw with tubing and this bender and the sidecar looks like the original complete with all the various bends at the nose among other places.
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