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  1. #1
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    Default Ford 9N and 12 volts

    I am looking for a solutions for my dad's 9N. He installed a 12 volt battery and is concerned about the extra 6 volts to the ignition system. I did find some info to install a ballast resistor on the ignition coil. I also suggested a 12 volt solenoid for the starter and snutz (sp) for gauges and such.

    Any insight on what I covered or didn't cover is appreciated.

    Thanks,
    Dan

  2. #2
    Elite Member George2615's Avatar
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    Default Re: Ford 9N and 12 volts

    The 6 volt wiring is usually heavier gauge and will handle 12V. The starter will spin a lot faster but probably won't last long at 12v. Any good alternator / generator shop can probably rewind it to handle 12V. Of course any lighting should be replaced with 12V bulbs as well. The ballast resistor for the coil is fine or that can be replaced with a 12V coil. The stock generator won't put out enough to keep it charged but a simple one wire 12V alternator or 12V generator can be adapted to fit the brackets. Don't know what gauges you have but a ballast resistor will cut the voltage to them but they won't be accurate. Basically, everything that was 6V can be replaced with 12V items.

  3. #3
    Platinum Member KYErik's Avatar
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    1963 Ford 4000, 1943 Case SC, Case 530CK backhoe

    Default Re: Ford 9N and 12 volts

    True- the 6 volt starter might not last as long running it with 12 volts, but I've been running 12 volts through my 1943 Case's 6 volt starter for the last 30+ years and its still cranking fast and fine. Even if I am slowly frying it, it looks like it might outlast me.

    If you are gonna spend lots of money having the starter rewound to 12 volts, you might as well hang on to the money for awhile and wait till the starter dies- but that's just my opinion.

    I think I do have a 12 volt coil though.
    "Attitudes are contagious; is yours worth catching?"

  4. #4
    Epic Contributor Soundguy's Avatar
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    Default Re: Ford 9N and 12 volts

    I collect and restore fords..got plenty of them.. including a 2n that is essentially the same as a 9n, and it is 12v.

    the 6v starter works FINE on 12v, and lasts nearly as long as when run on 6v, spins faster.. just don't grind on it forever.

    9n/2n don't use starter solenoids.. they have a mechanical interlocked start switch.. the big thumb button on the tranny presses a jiggle stick thru an interlock plate.. this stick manually actuates a high current switch that is mounted to the back of the steering pedistal.. no need to change it... it is actually overrated once you swap to 12v.

    lamps need to be changed.

    if you keep the oem 6v coil, then you need the oem ballast resistor plus another .5-1 ohm of resistance.. stock resistor like an 8ne10306 will be good for about .5 ohm.. or you can use radioshack 271-130 .47 ohm resistors.. note.. 2 might be needed.. there are plenty of different variety of 6v and 12v coils out on the market right now.. I've seen as much as 2 - 2.5 ohms of extra ressitance needed on the cheap overseas coils that only have .8/.9 ohms of primary resistance..

    alternately, you can get a 12v front mount square coil AND run the ballast resistor with them.. the 12v coils are unfortunately only happy on 12v.. not on 14v where charge votlage is at ( way to go china! ).

    Easiest way to make sure you have enough primary resistance for your coil primary is to install an ammeter inline with your ignition coil.. bump the engine over till points close.. shoot for 3-4a of primary current.. if you get in that range.. you are good to go for long breaker contact and coil life.

    yes, you can get a genny rewound for 12v.. or you can hang a delco 10si/12si alt on it.. if so.. get a 3 wire job.. charge wire to the bat side of the old cutout relay... #2 terminal jumped to the charge stud, #1 terminal run thru a 194 marker lamp to the coil side of the ignition switch.. or you can use a diode like a 1n5408.. or anything 1a/50piv or better. 3a/200piv is reccomended... install with the marked side of the diode ( cathode ) towards the alternator.. run negative ground

    soundguy

  5. #5
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    Default Re: Ford 9N and 12 volts

    Thanks for the replies guys!!! I will forward this info to him.

    Soundguy,

    Ironically, my father is in Central Florida too. He is looking for some other repairs he needs. Can you recommend some good repair places? It would be great to be there to "wrench her up". Just a little hard since I am up by Lake Superior.

    Thanks again guys,
    Dan

  6. #6
    Epic Contributor Soundguy's Avatar
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    Default Re: Ford 9N and 12 volts

    There is an awesome tractor mechanic in north ocala.. Ray harris ... him or the Nh dealer is the only place I'd take my fords to.

    soundguy

  7. #7
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    Default Re: Ford 9N and 12 volts

    Thanks for the reply Soundguy. I will forward the info on to him.

    Dan

  8. #8

    Default Re: Ford 9N and 12 volts

    I just watched an episode of "Two Guys Garage" this morning. The host had a 8N that he worked on. Pretty much did what you are asking about. Show was very informative. Would be great for you to watch. I think that the show is aired on the "Speed" network. By the way, greetings from Foxboro, WI (17 miles south of Superior). I went and ckecked, show re-airs Wed 3/19 3PM EST and Sat 3/22 10:30 EST.
    Last edited by Northstar9126; 03-16-2008 at 12:52 PM.

  9. #9

    Default Re: Ford 9N and 12 volts

    One other option would be to very carefylly tune the engine and drop in a nice new 6 vot battery.
    Our '42 Ford 2N starts on the 3rd or 4th revolution without fail.
    Can't improve much on that.

  10. #10
    Epic Contributor Soundguy's Avatar
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    Default Re: Ford 9N and 12 volts

    Quote Originally Posted by HarryVanderpool
    One other option would be to very carefylly tune the engine and drop in a nice new 6 vot battery.
    Our '42 Ford 2N starts on the 3rd or 4th revolution without fail.
    Can't improve much on that.

    That approach works great on a good engine that just needs a tune up. Unfortunately.. as compression gets a tad low.. the 'easy' way to keep the tractor working is to go to 12v, vs re lining the cyls, and putting in new rings and a valve job, and bearings all around.. etc.

    soundguy

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