Best way to pull axle case studs?

[ammodram]

Hi all

This weekend I tried to pull the hydraulic/trans filter on my recently acquired Kubota L245DT. The filter cap is located on the left side of the transmission case, just forward of the rear axle case.

It soon became painfully obvious that I could not get in to access the filter. It turns out that the original owner of the tractor (prior to the guy I bought from) had devised a clever way to mount the subframe for the aftermarket FEL on the tractor.

Besides two plate brackets bolted to each side of the block up front, he also rigged an I-shaped, welded channel-iron bracket that fits up under the transmission case and is secured to the sides using two of the lower bolts and studs that hold the axle case to the transmission case.

A picture is attached.

This thing fits like a glove. Only problem - he forgot to cut a window to allow the hydraulic filter to be removed! So I have to remove this contraption and have it cut so that the filter can be accessed in the future!!

The bolts holding the homemade bracket on were easily removable, but the studs are presenting a challenge. Because of the thickness added by the bracket, there is not enough thread to fully "double-nut" the stud. Plus, there is not much room to turn a wrench inside the channel iron.

A friend suggested welding a nut on the studs, pulling them, and replacing. I would have to rent or borrow a welder and get somebody to do this for me, as I have never welded.

Before trying this, I wonder if I should try a stud-puller like this one from Harbor Freight? Harbor Freight Tools - Quality Tools at the Lowest Prices

Do these cheapo stud pullers work? Any other techniques or recommended products? I would love to get the studs out with the threads intact, but failing that, I could go ahead and get a replacement.

I should probably replace the studs with bolts anyway - so that removal is easier in the future.

All suggestions and tips would be most appreciated!

Thanks
Matt

 

[wushaw]

I don't know about the chepo ones but the name brand units work just fine.

If you can get two short nuts that will work also or cut one in half or hack away at two to get the size you need.

 

[ammodram]

I don't know about the chepo ones but the name brand units work just fine.

Well, I thought about paying $25 for a KD tools extractor Amazon.com: K-D Tools 1708 Stud Extractor: Automotive

or $40 for a set of extractors
Amazon.com: 8 Piece Metric and SAE Stud Removal Kit (KDT41760): Home Improvement

But, for a one-time use, I thought I'd at least try the Harbor Freight version for $3.99.
Harbor Freight Tools - Quality Tools at the Lowest Prices

Anybody used these? Comments on "brand name" vs. Harbor Freight? Do they work on stubborn studs going into cast iron housings like this transmission case situation?

Thanks
Matt

 

[TCBoomer]

For me, I'd go for the KD one, I doubt the 3.99 one is worth even that. I have a couple from Snap On and they work like a charm. Just be sure to soak the studs with a penetrating oil prior to removal. In fact it might be best to soak the studs the day before and then again when you remove them.

 

[ammodram]

For me, I'd go for the KD one, I doubt the 3.99 one is worth even that. I have a couple from Snap On and they work like a charm. Just be sure to soak the studs with a penetrating oil prior to removal. In fact it might be best to soak the studs the day before and then again when you remove them.

TC Boomer - do you use the universal one, or ones that fit particular sizes of studs?

-Matt

 

[TCBoomer]

Mines just like the KD one you posted a link for. But the difference is that it has replaceable inserts that allow for different size studs. One advantage to that style is that the more effort you apply, the tighter it grabs. It does appear that the KD tool will cover 1/4" to 3/4" so you should be fine.

I've used the other version and was not impressed. It seemed like once it started to slip, it lost it's grip. Sometimes you could drop to the next smaller size and it would work, but not always.

 

[CATMAN]

If your stud removal method fails, have you considered taking a hacksaw to the channel iron right above the horizontal channel iron piece(cut off that vertical ear). You probably only need to cut one side(maybe). Once removed, then add a 4" wide X 1/4" thick X 6"-7" long piece of flat steel to the "upper" piece inside the channel(Have someone weld it on for you). Drill the "stud hole" thru the new additional flat steel, then during remounting, drill three 1/2" holes in the flat steel(lower portion) and the old channel iron(lower portion) in a trianglar pattern and use bolts/washers/nuts to hold the assembly together. It will be easy to remove in the future, also. I know for myself, if that stud didn't come out relatively easy, I personally would look into different methods and not take the chance of screwing up that stubborn stud. Just a secondary idea.

 

[ammodram]

Update on this problem I was having. All a stud extractor did was flatten the threads of the axle case studs a little! I had to clean them up with a die.

What I ended up doing was removing the 4WD shifter and the brake rod and brake cam lever, so that I could get an angle grinder onto the offending channel iron without damaging anything else.

The attached photo shows the cuts I made to create an access port to get to the hydraulic filter. Turned out to be much easier than trying to cut off the subframe or remove the studs. I hadn't immediately realized that I could pull the shifter off by driving out a roll pin that held it on.

The hydraulic screen was not that dirty, but did have a good number of metal shavings on it. Replacing the old gear oil with Kubota UDT made the hydraulics much smoother!

Thanks for the suggestions!

-Matt

 

[tommu56]

ammodram

I know you are done but ti remove a stud in that position I woild run the nut on and cross drill it and pit a pin in to lock nut and back out.

I havea also dirilled in the interface of the nut to stud straight in and put a pin in there and backed it out

tommu56

 

[Soundguy]

What about the thin 'pal' type nuts..

soundguy