Repainting rusted headers??

[BMXER10]

The headers on my Kubota is getting rusted badly over the years. I tapped on it with a hammer lightly and its definitely not anywhere close to rusting through. But im concerned because the rust is causing the bolts that attach it to the block to rust. Its only about $30 for new bolts and gaskets so Im going to order them up.

My question is should I be careful removing the old bolts? Any specials precautions? I dont want to break a bolt in the block.

Are high temp paints that come in a can any good? I imagine I would need to get the header sand blasted to remove the old rust.

Everything else under the hood is in excellent shape.

[Patches]

I use "VHT" brand,available at most specialty speed shops. You must remove all the current rust possible, and it will take multiple "coats", as there is very little pigment in the coating,compared to most other high temp. paint, but you'll be happy with the results and it wears well, if your equipment is kept under cover. I've used it on my wood burning stove also, and have had that much hotter than a diesel exhaust manifold. No burn off or flaking

[john_bud]

Is the oil filter really 3 years and 4 months old? Might be time to change.....

If you go to a commercial paint store where they mix and sell automotive paint, you can get them to mix up some high temp paint. Have them do it for brushing. Different solvent mix. Or you can go to Eastwoods site and get high temp brushable. I've used the stainless paint and it's pretty good, but you HAVE to thin it down and use many coats or it will not stick.

You do need to get it clean. Sand blast is best. Harbor freight sells a needle descaler that works pretty good. Or a wire brush 4" or 5" in an angle grinder. Get all the oil off then coat.

[Wayne County Hose]

I would send it out and have it ceramic coated, like they do with automotive headers. You take it off, send it out, and you never have to touch it again. If memory serves me correctly, there is a company in Connecticut called Jet Hot that does a great job.

I would be careful removing the old bolts, but I just changed the exhaust manifold on my 1950 Allis-Chalmers. Some of the bolts were a pain, but they all came out.

[Skerby]

i would leave it alone, aint worth the money, just cosmetic.. if that's not an option "I" would see if the new paint that converts rust to a solid and halts further corrosion is a high temp cover or not.. i'm not sure if it's 3m or rustoleum who makes it.. it that isn't a good choice i'll simply leave the header ON if the bolts, after wd40'ing them over a few hours, didn't loosen them up, and then wire brush as much as i could reach maybe portable sandblaster too and cover adjacent material w/ cardboard, then shoot them with a high temp aerosol can from walmart's auto section.. good luck.

[Scooby074]

Sand blast it. Wash with lacquer thinner. Then pain with por-15 manifold paint. High Temperature Paints-POR-15 Inc. or use the VHT paint Patches recommends, both are good products.

[BMXER10]

Originally Posted by john_bud

Is the oil filter really 3 years and 4 months old? Might be time to change.....

Thats an old pic actually... I changed the filter recently.

[Skerby]

after thinking about it here's what you should really do.
remove the exhaust manifold, send it out to be scanned so a new one can be
manufactured in heat resistant composite materials using the latest nanotechnology built up molecule by molecule, then have it sent to eqypt to be rightfully encrusted with jewels from the tombs of such great gods as isis and osiris, returned to have the remaining exposed composites garnished with gold electroplating and finally installed back on your kubota for future generations to behold, entrusting it upon your demise to the great institution which is the smithsonian.... good luck with that.

[Iron Horse]

Why would you bother ? They are cast iron not steel . It will out live you the way they are . I have never in my days seen a cast iron manifold rust through .

[Skyco]

I've never seen one rust through either but I did have one that rusted enough to leak where it sealed to the head. The factory method had no gasket, direct metal to metal which worked for 10 years until it started leaking. When I removed it the formerly machined sealing surface was all rusted up enough to leak, fortunately it rusted before the head. Bought a new manifold and a metal gasket designed to reseal to a used head, fixed it right up. This was on my 96 Powerstroke 7.3 in a F350.