Looking for suggestions for TS electrical problem

[wushaw]

Originally Posted by George2615

Like Vic said, use a test light. Disconnect the negative battery post and connect a 12V test light )or a voltmeter) between the post and the cable. With the tractor key off the light should not be lit. If it is then you have a circuit drawing current. Pull out tractor fuses one by one until the light goes out. That will be the circuit draining the battery. Just remember to put the fuses back in the right places later.

A volt meter is not good for this test since since you can get 12v but no current draw. It takes amperage to light up a light bulb.

A test light is the best method for checking for a draw when ya go to pullin fuses and wires.

[yankeerider]

Coupla suggestions:

Make sure the top of the battery and connections are clean. Batteries can discharge themselves over a period of days through dirt on the top.

If that voltage measurement with the ground cable removed was terminal to terminal, you've likely got a bad cell in the battery. Should have 12 volts with no load. (I'm assuming the 14 volts you measured "under load" was actually with the engine running.)

If none of these answers make sense, borrow a multimeter with DC current measuring capability. Connect it in series with the battery when everything is off and see if there's any flow. Trying to diagnose light current drains using voltage measurements can be difficult.

[fishpredator07]

Yes, 14.x was with the engine running.

I used a test light this time and didn't get a light from the negative cable to the post with the key off. In light of that, here's my assumptions:

1) not a bad alternator because I was getting 14.x across the posts with the engine running and i'm not running the tractor long enough to drain the battery with a bad alternator.

2) not a short cause I'm not getting a light on the tester with the negative cable disconnected and testing in sequence between the neg cable and neg post.

Agggh.

Guess I'll check the voltage across the posts again, but think I did that already and it was at 12.x.

Posts are clean.

Think I should be focusing on the battery itself?

Thanks.

[Willl]

A way to find out for sure would be to disconnect the fully charged battery, wait a few weeks, then reconnect and turn the key.

[wushaw]

Get a hydrometer ( any parts store will have them ) and check each battery cell electroylite level.
Put battery on a trickle charger over night before checking.
Also you should have like 13.2 volts in a 12v battery.

[fishpredator07]

Checked the water. One cell was almost empty. The others were all over the map on the hydrometer readings. Topped them off and charged it up yesterday. 13.2V. This morning, 12.6V and with the hydrometer one cell was null and void. 2 were fair and 3 were good. Will be taking the battery back to the supplier this evening. Thanks for the advice, I've learned a bunch. Hopefully this does the trick.

[wushaw]

A hydrometer is a very good tool to have on hand to check the health of a battery.

[fishpredator07]

parts store confirmed the battery was bad and I'll get a free! replacement. I'll pick that up and install tonight.

Over the course of the next few weeks to a month I'll know if that was truly the root cause of my problems but seems like it. Meanwhile, I can start going after my hydraulic problem....Thanks all!

[Sully2]

Battery voltages ( 12V and 6 V) and electrolite specific gravity should be...;