JC-jetro
Elite Member
Bill_C said:I
My vote is to bite the bullet and do the job right.
I second that, Brian Mo this is what you will see with your 1100. The pics are for 1700 or bigger brother to your 1100.
JC,
Bill_C said:I
My vote is to bite the bullet and do the job right.
brianMO said:Has anybody used any liquid head-gasket repair? I am skeptical of the results but facing a $111.00 head gasket, and lots of hours of labor to repair my ford 1100. Bars makes a product, as well as, many others. Any testimonies out there you want to share.
Soundguy said:The tubes in your rad are HUGE compaired to the intended pinhole or smaller sized gaps that most 'sealers' are designed to seal.
Big difference in a 1/4" crossectional tube.. or say.. a hole between a pin or human hair sized..
Gotta keep perspective in this..
soundguy
skipmarcy said:Was just at the radiator shop a couple days ago with a friend, they had probably 7 or 8 old cores from tractor radiators laying there. A couple of them that were reasonably "clean" had flue widths of about 1/16". Then you had the ones that were scaled-up, all you had were pinholes left for flow. A sealer would very easily further plug more. I have seen many automotive radiators over the years thus clogged with all types of quick fix gimmicks.
Yes that would make sense if I were planning to fix the clutch but I'm not. I made probably the biggest blunder of my life buying that machine and have already spent way too much money trying vindicate myself. I don't believe it would survive being split apart any way. Of the four bolts per side that attach the forward frame to the engine block, only one on the left side still has threads to bite in the block. The rest of the holes are stripped out. I figured I'd run it until it broke apart, it's just the clutch went first.Soundguy said:If you tear it down for the clutch.. why not braze the block.. would be better than jb.. etc.
soundguy