If $$ are tight, you will be 99.999% good if you just order bearings that are the same as what was in there. (I didn't look close at the bearings, you might be able to reuse). The crank looked great. The ford diesel cranks were tough, but the rod bolts were known to be pizz poor. I had ARP's fitted. At the very least I would have new factory bolts put in. They stretch and get weak while looking good, then blow a hole in the side of the block when you are not expecting it.
Yeah, pull the oil pump apart. Measure the distance between the gear points and the housing at the closest. That is the clearance that determines how much oil the pump will pump. Also the distance from the gears face to the metal cover. And look for scratches, etc. Based on your crank, it should be good. I would also pull the relief spring and add a 1/8th inch washer to up the oil pressure 5-15 psi. I am of the more is better when it comes to oil pressure club!
Putting the injection pump back is cake. Except, that the #1 may not be on the comression stroke when you have the cam/crank gears lined up! Make sure you have the number 1 (closest to the radiator) on the compression stroke, static time the with the flywheel marks to 23 degrees BTDC and align the marks in the pump timing window EXACTLY! If you can't get the marks to show up, the pump gear drive in the block is backwards. I forget if it's offset away from the block or towards the block, this is coming off the cuff. But it only goes one way. The "trick" to getting it to seat on the oil pump drive shaft is to press it down with one hand and turn the crank by hand at the same time. The hex shaft will dance around in there and eventually go in. (You can actually set it in there with the oil pan off, but knowing how to do it with the pan on is nice!).
Thanks John. I'll definitely add your suggestions to my growing list. My current strategy is to take the block, head, and pistons to my local machinist/engine rebuilder. It makes sense to me to have an "expert" take a close look at the pistons - and it gives me an opportunity to ask about ringing, knurling, replacing the rod bearings and bolts. I'd assume he would be able to hook me up with a set of ARP or factory bolts. Here's my basic plan of attack:
1. Look at the pistons:
(A) If a piston is bad - project is likely over - or at least shelved until I can convince my wife (and myself) that's I should spend $750-1000 to overhaul to 0.03-0.04 pistons
. She's beginning to realize that I'm planning on keeping this tractor if I get the engine rebuilt. The only way I'm going to pull this off would be to (A) have a good engine, and (B) plan for a complete restoration towards "show" quality. This is no doubt a long-term project, but one that I would enjoy, and one my wife could get on board for
.
(2) Cylinders: If pistons look good, we take bore measurements to determine if within specs, hone, cleanup, and decide on how to proceed with ringing/knurling the pistons etc. Depending upon the final bore measurements I may order 0.03 piston rings and then custom grind to the proper ring gap. Lots of work yes, but also the only way I can be sure that I get a proper seat in the cyls.
(3) Head and Valves: I think I'll take the head and valves along to get a "second" opinion. I worked on both yesterday and with the exception of some minor pitting on the flat surface of two of the valves, the stems and seating surfaces on both the head and valves look sparkling clean, and ready to lap. Unless my guy can convince me that things won't work without valve grinding, head grinding, etc., I'll do the the lapping myself.
Does this seem like a reasonable POA? Anything I'm missing here? There have been tons of suggestions throughout this thready and I'm probably missing some obvious "must-dos".
-Pete
