muffler bolt holes stripped out

   / muffler bolt holes stripped out #1  

beaner68

Member
Joined
Aug 29, 2008
Messages
48
Location
winslow arkansas
Tractor
farmtrac 300 dtc
i have a 028 wb stilh (hope i spelled that right)the bolt holes on the muffler stripped out on me today thinking i might try to heli coil the holes is this a good idea or does any body have a better idea
 
   / muffler bolt holes stripped out #2  
Helicoils are a good idea, I don't have a better one
 
   / muffler bolt holes stripped out #3  
You have to drill to a larger hole to install the helicoils so why not just drill and tap the holes to the next larger size bolt or stud? Another thing that can be done is to drill all the way through both sides of the flange, if it is accessable, and use nuts on the back side. Be sure to use extreme high temp anti-sieze on the threads of whatever you use.
 
   / muffler bolt holes stripped out #4  
Great advice by psj12.. I've found in small holes.. if you have already stripepd them.. that they may be marginally too small anyway.. and that the helicoil pulls out.. sometimes a larger hole and new standard threads ar ethe ticket.. other times.. as was said.. if the rear of the flange is accessable.. a nut/bolt works..

soundguy
 
   / muffler bolt holes stripped out
  • Thread Starter
#5  
i took is to my local stihl dealer they said they could tap it out and it would be between 25 to 30 dollars to fix so i let them fix it. its a old saw so parts are hard to find
 
   / muffler bolt holes stripped out #6  
the retap is what i would have tried first.. etc.. more surface area than original.. so should be stronger..

soundguy
 
   / muffler bolt holes stripped out #7  
There were at least two muffler designs for the 028. The early design had a muffler support bracket that came out of the side of the muffler and was bolted to the saw on the left side. I have seen a lot of problems with this design, and that is most likely why the newer 028s have the two lower screws holding the muffler cover on threaded into the crank housing. With the early design, the muffler casings would sometimes crack and also if the support bolt would come out, it could cause stress and also allow the bolts in the cylinder to come out.

If it is just a simple matter of the bolts being stripped, I like to use a helicoil. The threads of a helicoil are much stronger that just a tapped hole, especially in aluminum. There are many times when they are used in factory applications such as rocker stud holes on alloy cylinder heads, etc.

I have one 028 here that is far beyond any normal repair because it has been drilled and tapped oversize already and a very large bolt was used to repair the one hole. The other hole is halfway packed with JB weld or some other brand of glue. There really is no room to get to this area once the muffler in on, so on this saw as a last chance repair, I'm going to take a couple of bolts and weld flags on them. I figure if I can get the bolts in place from behind and fasten the muffled housing on with locking nuts and loctite, it may give the saw a new life. Once the bolts start to rotate, the flags will rest on the cylinder cooling fins and prevent the bolts from turning.

As far as the parts getting hard to find, the early muffler housing is no longer available so a used one will be needed if the support is cracked or missing.

Ken
 
 
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