Spring pins - argh!

[canoetrpr]

A recent repair job that caused me to drop my oil pan introduced me to the world of spring pins. I had to undo the propeller shaft to get the oil pan off.

Much of the headache with said shaft were the three spring pins that needed to be tapped out and back in again when removing / reinstalling. It does not help that I did not have the right tool for the job. I ended up using the combination of a large punch and a hex key.

I replaced one of the pins because it had come damaged with my effort to remove it.

I reused the other two. One went in fine. I am having a HECK of a time getting the last one - which holds one end of the propeller shaft cover in place. The other end (front axle end) is held in place with a bolt which secures the cover to the oil pan.

I suspect that the pin that is giving me a grief (driven in half way) was probably damaged - one of its ends might be flared - which is why it giving me trouble coming out the other side.

Thought I'd ask those of you who have been around equipment how you deal with spring pins:

- What do you use to tap them out?
- Do you re-use them or buy new?
- Any other general tips for tapping them out and re-installing them?

For the one that I can't get in, I'm going to invest my efforts in getting it out now and picking up a new one when the dealer opens tomorrow.

 

[Cocre]

Use a pin punch to tap them out. A pin punch is similar to a center punch but it does not taper nor does it come to a point. They are flat faced and come in various diameters. You can see one here http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Punch_(engineering) .

You can reuse them, but they are cheap so in a critical application you may want to just buy new.

The most important thing is to align things as best you can before you drive the pin in. Take the properly sized pin punch and make certain it slip fits through all pinned parts assembled prior hammering the pin in. If it won't go through you have something turned 180 degrees off most likely.

 

[Willl]

At home I use a good quality drift pin driver and some good solid blows.

At work I also use a good pin driver, but its mounted in a air chisel gun. Makes quick work out of it.

Always use a hard steel, FLAT tipped drive tool.

NEVER use a nail, screw or any soft metal, it will form a point and drive itself inside the pin and force the pin open making it tighter in the hole.

 

[two_bit_score]

I thought you were always supposed to replace them with new. Guess I was wrong.

 

[kennyd]

At home I use a good quality drift pin driver and some good solid blows.

At work I also use a good pin driver, but its mounted in a air chisel gun. Makes quick work out of it.

Always use a hard steel, FLAT tipped drive tool.

NEVER use a nail, screw or any soft metal, it will form a point and drive itself inside the pin and force the pin open making it tighter in the hole.

This is good advice! I use these Roll Pin Punches and have never had a problem.

 

[kidr]

I usually start the pin with a bolt or something.when the pinis partway out I grab it with my improvised slide hammer.I took out the adjusting screw from a vise grip and substituted a short length of threaded rod with a sliding weight.Works good for cotter pins too.

 

[Scotty370]

All good responses! When putting in the re-used or new pins, I'd make sure the lead edge has a slight bevel around the circumferance. Roll it, ever so lightly, on the side of a grinding wheel. ~S

 

[Bird]

Use a pin punch to tap them out. A pin punch is similar to a center punch but it does not taper nor does it come to a point. They are flat faced and come in various diameters. You can see one here http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Punch_(engineering) .

You can reuse them, but they are cheap so in a critical application you may want to just buy new.

The most important thing is to align things as best you can before you drive the pin in. Take the properly sized pin punch and make certain it slip fits through all pinned parts assembled prior hammering the pin in. If it won't go through you have something turned 180 degrees off most likely.

When I was working on air tools, there were lots of roll pins (or spring pins, if you prefer) and I had a set of 4 Matco pin punches that usually handled anything I found. And I routinely reused the old pins.

 

[RickB]

Pin punches or roll pin punches are a necessity for roll pins or spiral pins. But I ALWAYS use a starter punch (tapered) or other devise to move the roll pin initially if it is at all possible. Once the pin moves at all, a pin or roll pin punch will finish driving it out. A rusted in or otherwise stuck spiral pin can easily ruin a high quality pin punch.

 

[Skyco]

I usually start the pin with a bolt or something.when the pinis partway out I grab it with my improvised slide hammer.I took out the adjusting screw from a vise grip and substituted a short length of threaded rod with a sliding weight.Works good for cotter pins too.

Now that is a dang good idea converting the vise grip to a slide hammer