John Deere 4300 complete rebuild

   / John Deere 4300 complete rebuild #541  
This is just the 420 FEL....I hope your 430 uses bigger cylinder rods, Roy.

What I'd noticed (in the video) was the pivoting links attached to the rod end of the bucket dump/curl cylinders weren't there. The 430 loaders have them and loaders on larger loader have these links. On smaller loaders, the dump/curl cylinders attach directly to the bucket.
I suppose they provide a degree of mechanical advantage for heavier lifting.

I never measured the rod diameters but I would guess they're a larger cylinder. I do know it's a robust loader (had to tow my 650 lb cutter out of the shed...I use the bucket hooks and chains. I always just towed it with the 790/419 loader. With the 4400/430 loader, I was halfway down to the drive before I realized the cutter was completely off the ground. Didn't even notice any front end squat or wobbling.)

Anyway, I had thought your 4300 had the (optional) 430 loader. I was a bit surprised it had the 420.
 
   / John Deere 4300 complete rebuild
  • Thread Starter
#542  
What I'd noticed (in the video) was the pivoting links attached to the rod end of the bucket dump/curl cylinders weren't there. The 430 loaders have them and loaders on larger loader have these links. On smaller loaders, the dump/curl cylinders attach directly to the bucket.
I suppose they provide a degree of mechanical advantage for heavier lifting.

I guess you missed the whole series of posts on my FEL refurbishment, Roy.
Esp, see posts # 435-442.
 
   / John Deere 4300 complete rebuild #543  
I guess you missed the whole series of posts on my FEL refurbishment, Roy.
Esp, see posts # 435-442.

I guess I did!
 
   / John Deere 4300 complete rebuild
  • Thread Starter
#544  
I wanted to include the results of an experiment I did with mending
broken Deere green resin body panels.

I don't know what the chemistry of these panels is, but they break
easily, and I believe they get more brittle with age. Probably ozone
and/or UV radiation degrades this plastic.

The pix are of a cowl panel from this tractor. I bought one new cowl
for this tractor, but at $200, others may hesitate. In the first photo,
you can see the crack I am about to repair. I used a chunk of plastic
cut from a broken hood I have, sanded and cleaned with acetone.

The Loctite Plastix Bonder is a 2-part epoxy that worked quite well.
It is very stinky, but it seems to dissolve the plastic before hardening.

The mended crack is still quite visible, but now it is stable.
 

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   / John Deere 4300 complete rebuild #545  
Nice repair, but once plastic is damaged and cracks - it will typically continue to crack in other places.

That's why I don't like plastic parts for outdoor equipment.
 
   / John Deere 4300 complete rebuild
  • Thread Starter
#546  
That's why I don't like plastic parts for outdoor equipment.

Like anything else, there are pros and cons. I prefer steel fenders and
hoods, too, but I can see why others like how the plastic parts are
impervious to rust.

Note that JD's hood, cowl, and side panel plastic is thin (1/8") and
vulnerable, but the rear fenders are much thicker and more durable.
 
   / John Deere 4300 complete rebuild #547  
Yep, but it still don't seem natural having plastic parts that can self destruct.


Hopefully, Deere will continue to carry the replacement parts for many years. Even if you must pay with more and more body parts...:laughing:
 
 
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