The Saga of the Stuck Clutch, Part II

[joebarbera]

I've had stuck clutch issues with my Kioti LT 2554 before, but this time it is seriously stuck, probably rusted.

1. I can stall the engine with the brakes or drive the bucket into the ground, but that will not break it free.
2. I pulled off the inspection plate and confirmed the throw out bearing is operating.
3. Adjusted all the free play out of the pedal.
4. Sprayed the heck out of it with a penetrating oil and let it sit over night.
5. A local mechanic suggested putting a heat lamp inside and letting that sit over night, with the intention that things will expand and break free. Says it is a trick he uses in his shop all the time. Didn't have a heat lamp, but I did stick in 75 watts worth of outdoor Christmas lights. No help.
6. Tried again with 180 watts of Christmas lights.
7. I drilled out two unused mounting holes on the side of the case to get better access for the oil to get to the actual clutch surface. Curiously, from one I can see the reflections of my Christmas lights, the one closest to the engine does not light up. I really do no know what void I penetrated.
8. Extended the clutch adjustment all the way for maximum throw, then strapped it down to exert maximum pressure. Left it this way overnight with about 225 watts of Christmas lights. Next morning still stuck, so I drove it around the field for awhile with the clutch still strapped down. Probably did not make the throw out bearing very happy.

Sooooo?. I'm turning to you fine gentlemen for help.
Got any ideas?
Got a diagram that shows exactly where the clutch surface is? Maybe I can drill a hole and get WD40 to the right place.
Anyone got the split the case section of the service manual on line?

The field mowing and firewood hauling is getting backed up!

Joe B.

 

[kenstrac]

Split the tractor and take the clutch apart you have sprayed oil in it so if you do get it unstuck the clutch will probably slip and your not doing the clutch springs and fingers any good byadjusting it like you did.

 

[NewToy]

I've had stuck clutch issues with my Kioti LT 2554 before, but this time it is seriously stuck, probably rusted.

1. I can stall the engine with the brakes or drive the bucket into the ground, but that will not break it free.
2. I pulled off the inspection plate and confirmed the throw out bearing is operating.
3. Adjusted all the free play out of the pedal.
4. Sprayed the heck out of it with a penetrating oil and let it sit over night.
5. A local mechanic suggested putting a heat lamp inside and letting that sit over night, with the intention that things will expand and break free. Says it is a trick he uses in his shop all the time. Didn't have a heat lamp, but I did stick in 75 watts worth of outdoor Christmas lights. No help.
6. Tried again with 180 watts of Christmas lights.
7. I drilled out two unused mounting holes on the side of the case to get better access for the oil to get to the actual clutch surface. Curiously, from one I can see the reflections of my Christmas lights, the one closest to the engine does not light up. I really do no know what void I penetrated.
8. Extended the clutch adjustment all the way for maximum throw, then strapped it down to exert maximum pressure. Left it this way overnight with about 225 watts of Christmas lights. Next morning still stuck, so I drove it around the field for awhile with the clutch still strapped down. Probably did not make the throw out bearing very happy.

Sooooo?. I'm turning to you fine gentlemen for help.
Got any ideas?
Got a diagram that shows exactly where the clutch surface is? Maybe I can drill a hole and get WD40 to the right place.
Anyone got the split the case section of the service manual on line?

The field mowing and firewood hauling is getting backed up!

Joe B.

You have pretty much done everything you can from outside the tractor. One thing you may try is the heat thing again. I can't see the xmas lights throwing off that much heat. Maybe a heat gun or something, who knows? If it keeps you from a split job you're ahead of the game.

 

[MikeD74T]

There's an old time method that predates WD-40 & aerosol cans, squirt it with kerosene. It should penetrate the rust & free the clutch. Won't cause excessive slip & doesn't need to be cleaned off.
The splines on the shaft may be stuck. Plug holes & flood the bellhousing with kerosene if possible. My old dozer has grease fittings on the clutch hub to ensure it slides. MikeD74T

 

[dqdave1]

I have heard that you can pull the starter and if you can get an air chiesel in there and make some "vibrations" with it ; clutches become unstuck.

 

[Scotty370]

Gotta be one seriously rusted spline! How long did this sit around? Are you absolutely sure the Throw-Out bearing yoke isn't broken? You're probably looking at a teardown, with all that lube in there. How often do you grease your brake shoes/pads? Same effect! ~Scotty

 

[KubotaSam]

Gotta be one seriously rusted spline! How long did this sit around?

When a clutch rusts and sticks so it won't release it is not the splines that rust. It is the surface of the clutch disk bonding to the face of the flywheel and/or the clutch presssure plate.

 

[Soundguy]

save the xmas lamps for the tree..

can you pull the starter and take a drift and hammer a bit inthere.. the vibrations help.

leave her blocked for a few days.

put in high gear and then just set on her and manually bump the starter over.. leave that clutch blocked while you do this.. just keep bumping.

I broke free the stuck clutch onmy naa after it setup 7ys with no use..

I tried the driving in figure 8's stomping outside brake.. etc.. etc..

once you get her free, hose the inside down with brakleen and then slip the clutch a bit like taking off in high gear.. re adjust the clutch, and from now on. block her when not on her. once a clutch starts sticking. it will likely always stick.

I have 2 fords that will stick if not blocked.

I wouldn't run out and split just yet to change that clutch.. besides..as most mechanics know.. an oil clutch becomes grabby.. it doesn't slip! penetrating oil is light.. and with the adition of the brakleen.. will likely flash and disipate and boil off after all that gets nice and hot in there... might get decades out of that clutch before it's ready to come out.. might not too.

soundguy

 

[psj12]

I had to fix one for a guy that finally broke it loose on his JD. When he did break it loose it pulled a piece of the clutch lining off the disk and it then required a new clutch. The flywheel and disk didn't seem to have all that much rust on them and I replaced just the disk, TO bearing, and lightly sanded the flywheel and pressure plate. Everythig worked fine since then.

 

[MikeD74T]

Gotta be one seriously rusted spline! How long did this sit around? Are you absolutely sure the Throw-Out bearing yoke isn't broken? You're probably looking at a teardown, with all that lube in there. How often do you grease your brake shoes/pads? Same effect! ~Scotty

When a clutch rusts and sticks so it won't release it is not the splines that rust. It is the surface of the clutch disk bonding to the face of the flywheel and/or the clutch presssure plate.

Your combined experiences may be somewhat limited, however I've personally experienced both. My old Cat D7 has zerks on the clutch plate splines to ensure release. I've also experienced it not stopping because the splines weren't lubed. It's not that cool to be on an 18 ton machine that refuses to stop. I'm not saying it's likely that spline sticking will happen on a tractor but it's not out of the realm of possibility.

Soundguy's right about oil being grabby which is why old timers used kerosene, it penetrated & has low lubricity. MikeD74T