Replace bush hog blades

[RMEADOWS]

I've abused my bush hog to the point I need to repalce the blades (the are so dinged up they are out of balance). IMy Ag-King bush hogs blades are connected to the stump jumper. stump jumper to center shaft. To get the blades off, you need to remove the entire stump jumper, no access holes.

How in blazes do you get it off? I got the center bolt off and I can not pull off the plate! There is no place to hook up a puller, and a pry bar bends the plate.

I'm tempted to drill my own access holes..... if no one can help.

 

[Bird]

Roger, I'm not familiar with that brand of brush hog, but it sounds like the Howse I had. After removing a very large cotter pin and the nut from the spindle, I had to make my own puller using a short piece of heavy channel iron and two 5" C clamps. If I'd kept it, I think I'd have cut an access hole in the deck (like my Bush Hog brand came originally with).

 

[emeryc]

Roger, I have used Birds method before, using a strong back and removing it from the shaft. however, both of my bush hogs have a hole drilled throught the top deck, so I can use a 1- 11/16 socket with breaker bar. Works real good for me. Hope this helps out...Emeryc

 

[TBone]

Roger,

Save yourself a lot of trouble by having an access hole cut in the deck so you can come in from the top with a socket and pullhandle. Why they don't all come from the factory that way I'll never know.

If you ever do need to pull off the stumpjumper, I have found it easier to turn the brush hog over on its back so you can get to everything easily.

TBone

 

[tdenny]

RMEADOWS,

I had the exact same problem last week. I took out the cotter pin and then finally was able to spin off the very large nut on the spindle. Lo and behold the stump plate wouldn't budge. I ended up sharpening the blades with a hand held grinder. This worked pretty well but I went out and hogged a couple of acres of small alder trees and grass and hit several rocks etc, during that time. I am positive I need new blades at this point.

I am glad you asked the questions though because I never even thought of drilling access holes in the top of the deck.

As far as blades go - Pieter at First Choice mentioned to me that they had access to about every kind of blade imaginable for brush hogs. When I'm ready to get my new blades I'll call him to at least point me in the right direction.

 

[BB_TX]

If you can, stand the cutter up on it's side so that you can get free and safe access to it. Using a pry bar, have someone apply pressure to the stump jumper (preferably from 2 sides) while you tap on the center shaft with a heavy hammer. Be sure to use a piece of brass or other soft metal between the hammer and the shaft.

 

[JimMc]

I've used the hammer persuasion method with great success. But, I learned the hard way to loosen the nut on the shaft and leave the nut on the spindle. That way when you mess up the threads, you straighten them out somewhat when you finishing removing the nut. The best success comes from the gear puller / hammer combo.

 

[Bird]

Jim, you're absolutely right about loosening the nut, but leaving it on. I backed it off flush with the end of the spindle. It not only keeps you from messing up the threads, but also keeps the whole works from falling on you if you're under it./w3tcompact/icons/laugh.gif