Woods M5

[Anonymous Poster]

I am about to replace the blades on my 1970's Woods M5 cutter. I have the kit from Woods and am about to proceed. Aparently on the Woods mowers, there are easy to do. Does anybody have any tips?

[tdenny]

Wear gloves and get some PB Blaster (the TBN guys pointed me to this stuff). I bought some and it works extremely well on loosening rusty old nuts.

[JerryG]

Mowerfixer,
Great mower. I have had one for about three years and don’t think that I’ll ever trade. Raise up the back. Put jack stands under for safety. Remove top inspection cover. Turn blades to line up a blade bolt. Use ratchet and 5/8” socket to remove bolt. Knock pin out. Then reverse sequence.

[Anonymous Poster]

Thanks...it sounds too easy, compared to what others seem to be saying on the board about changing blades...I'll try it this weekend and let you know what happens. Thanks much!

[JerryG]

Mowerfixer,
It is easy. The Woods blade system is second to none. I can change my blades in about ten minutes.

[buppy69]

Where can I buy this PB Blaster I hear so much about?

Eugene

[tdenny]

buppy69,

I picked up my last can of PB Blaster at the local Schucks. I'm sure most if not all big auto parts stores will have it. The stuff is about 100 times better than WD40 for loosening these nuts & bolts.

[JerryG]

In a word----Wal-Mart-----.

[Anonymous Poster]

OK, so this afternoon, I got the bolts off and the "shim" plate things off...but the large "pins" that hold the blades on will not come loose. Tried hammering them down, but no luck. Any ideas...I'd guess these things have been on for 30+ years

[JerryG]

Never had that problem with a Wood's cutter. You really can't get a hammer to them. Let the PB Blaster soak for while then hold a short section of 1/2" or 3/4" pipe or rod in the center of the pin to hit. That way you won't burr the end of the pin.