E14 Electrical problem???

[Jerry E14]

My headlights and glow plugs just went out. The horn and starter work fine. I don't know what happened. I parked it and a few days later tried to start it and found out this problem
What is wrong with it?????
jerry

 

[teg]

Have you check for mice? Looked at the Fuse and or the wires? Oh, Welcome to TBN, by the way. This question should not be in introductions but what the hey... It will most likely be moved... and we'll help give you some ideas to try...

 

[Jerry E14]

I followed all the wiring as best as I could. I removed the whole ignition switch and inspected it for cracks/damage. Didn't see any. Of course I can't see inside of it to see if something there is wrong. It puzzles me that the starter will work, the horn works but the lights & glow plug "thingy" won't.

(thingy) My Hinomoto E14 has a round chrome button on the instrument panel with a hole/opening in the center. Inside that hole is a curled wire that glows when you turn the key (back) to the opposite direction from start.
That curly wire will not glow now and the motor will just crank and crank without kicking on. I figure it is because it needs the glow plugs to be heated up.

Again, all the wiring "looked" ok.
Ps, what is the aluminum box that some of the wiring goes to? It's attached to a panel underneath the instrument panel. I took it off to inspect it also. I noticed that the back has some sort of hard plastic stuff on it. It looks like it was poured into it. It's like something you would see in a big computer or transformer. Is this some sort of a regulator...?

Any ideas?

 

[bota7800]

Welcome to TBN

1. Pictures might help, particularly with the box question.

2. Use a multimeter to test the wires. Were the fuses OK? You don't happen to have a wiring diagram by any chance?

 

[kenstrac]

I think the box you pulled out is the voltage regulator.
You should be checking the switch with a volt meter or a test lamp.

 

[Jerry E14]

voltage regulator

I bet that's it. However, would a regular problem cause just the glow plugs & light not to work and still allow the starter & horn to operate?
Plus, why would it go out while the tractor was just sitting there. It ran fine the day before. I bought a new fuel filter and came home to put it on and discovered I could not move the tractor under my car port.

I bought it from someone I did not know and do not have ANY papers, manuals or anything. It is very small and I use it to mow & till the garden... that's pretty much all it can do. I think it has about 14 HP/12 @ pto.

I will take pictures tomorrow (it's dark now) and post them.

If I can figure out how... I am new to this.
Any advice on posting jpegs? Can I insert them from a file on my desk top? How?

 

[Jerry E14]

Ps.
There are only two in-line fuses. This tractor does not have a normal fuse box. From what I can tell the fuses are on the wire to the horn and I'm not sure what the other one goes to.
The ignition switch has 5 terminals that feed the electronics (starter, glow plugs, light switches, horn, etc)
There's no much on this simple little tractor.

PPs.
Over the last few months the battery has drained dead. I have had to charge it up before starting it. I figured it was just an old battery that I needed to replace.

Also, I did figure out that it has a Yushin Seiki ignition... if that helps????

 

[teg]

To attach a photo, just scroll down below the text box until you see "manage attachments" - view attached photos for details. Just make sure the file size is not too big (1 meg) or else, you'll have to resize them down.

 

[Jerry E14]

I am trying to attached photos of the ignition switch. I think it is the problem. If I jiggle the key the headlight come on.
However, the glow lamp will not.

 

[Jerry E14]

Here is the glow plug lamp hole and a shot of what it looks like from the under side.
No matter what I did with the key, I could not get the lamp or plug to heat.
Maybe that part of my switch has shorted out.

 

[teg]

We had an old JD cotton picker that we could not get started and it turned out to be the ignition switch... bought a generic one off the shelf and it worked fine. Got it at just an auto-parts store... worth a shot.

 

[Jerry E14]

Thanks Teg...
Please keep in mind that I am not "electrical" minded.
I presume that the five terminal/leads on my starter switch are there for specific functions.
So far, the only thing I have found close to a switch that looks like mine, only has four posts.
How in the world will I know what can be combined? I'm afraid that I might short something out.

Any ideas on this?
Or better yet, does any one know where I can find a switch like mine? (5-terminals)
Now that would be great.

Thank you friends.

 

[teg]

shoot neither were we... we were trying to hotwire the picker but it would always cut out. We pulled the old ignition switch out and it matched right up... lucky for sure since it was just a universal / generic switch. We just replaced wire for wire. You can call these guys... they maybe able to help... but it's just a guess.

West Kentucky Tractor Parts

 

[OKnewguy]

You might go over and search in the Chinese section. Some of them have replaced theirs with an old ford switch. If I remember right, you have to make sure your switch has all these positions for things like glow plugs and such. You should be able to find the ford # over their.
Good luck, Dave

 

[ampa]

I bought an ignition switch from a Kubota dealer for my ISEKI it has the 5 terminals you need...... check your old switch with an ohm meter no need to be an electrical tech to perform this test....first take the positive off the main battery and remove the wire/terminal connection....then turn the switch to the glow plug the correct terminal should lined up with the key turned hard left...no ohm reading means the contacts are burned...you mentioned the battery self draining....I had the same problem while back....I blamed myself for this..as I replaced the old idiot lights with mini gauges and wired a small direct feed wire from the regulator to a semi ground connection by mistake....I know things happen...to trace a direct short take the positive battery cable off and with the key switch in the off position see if you can see a slight spark best to test this in a sort of dark area...as mine was not like a huge arc but I could hear and notice it....rewired it up proper and everything is fine now..... like the alternator is charging normal and no more battery drain....your glow plug indicater can be checked with an ohm meter as well... the ignition switch turned to glow plug heater sends dc voltatage to the indicater and the glow plugs....I think you also mentioned no headlights as well....hmmmm all points to a bad ignition switch as the accessories run off the ignitions switch..but also note you should have a fuse for all accessories not too sure on a fuse for the glow plugs...I think the glow plug indicator is some what like a fuse...someone correct me if i'm wrong.......hope this info helps....Ampa

 

[Jerry E14]

Thank you very much... I will certainly try these suggestions.

I dropped by the local Ford tractor place today. Parts man shook his head when I said Hinomoto... from that point on he was no help... Jerk!
Anyway, a kind man (farmer) in the store over heard my question... said he had a similar problem with his tractor and by-passed the heater position on the ignition switch with a spring loaded toggle switch.
He said he wired it through where the glow lamp connection was and manually toggled his glow plugs... said "its still workin". Form what I gather he wired from one post on the ignition to the other with the toggle in between.

Should I attempt this?

 

[teg]

I would... but you should see my lawn mower I finally put a second toggle switch on after I had to by pass the ignition switch... for a while, I just held two wires together until it started... it's ugly, but it still works.

 

[kenstrac]

MF and Allis both used Hinimoto tractors in the early days try an AGCO dealer.

 

[ampa]

The spring loaded toggle switch mentioned is sometimes called a momentary switch....I use these type on my electronic equipment...when it comes to a tractor....I prefer the ignition to be keyed otherwise you might find your tractor missing maybe someone may figure out how its started and take it for trial run......although I never caught anyone around it my 42' Craftsman plough runs off an electric winch....our house lot is not fenced and open to the public.... last year I had it hooked directly with a fuse to the battery.... I normaly leave the plough parked in the up position.... my tractor although it's doubled chained to a couple of trees with extra heavy duty gauge chain....it sits outside all year round....I'm thinkin' maybe the neighbour kids were playin' around with it like it was a new toy..... I now have the new Kubota key switch and the key must be inserted and turned on to even use the horn.....you perhaps have a huge barn to keep your tractor safe....anyhow like the fellow before me said....go for it....if you hold the toggle switch for too long in order to warm your glow plugs you chance burnin' them out without out the heater inducator coil wired in series...I know someone one mentioned the glow plugs are only 9 volt DC and the tractor runs off 12 volts...the heater protects the glow plugs by allowin' only 9 volts to your glow plugs...maybe I missread and your leavin' the heater and just gonna' use the toggle switch....the Kabota switch cost me about $35 cdn...whatever route you go I hope you get her up and runnin' again.....take care Ampa

 

[mostly_gas]

Thanks Teg...
Please keep in mind that I am not "electrical" minded.
I presume that the five terminal/leads on my starter switch are there for specific functions.
So far, the only thing I have found close to a switch that looks like mine, only has four posts.
How in the world will I know what can be combined? I'm afraid that I might short something out.

Any ideas on this?
Or better yet, does any one know where I can find a switch like mine? (5-terminals)
Now that would be great.

Thank you friends.

Jerry, Can you trace all the wires? To be able to use the 4 post switch, you would need to know what all the wire functions are to know if you can double up some wires. As a guess you just need to run the glow plugs through a toggle switch.
My Ford 1700 has a 5 lug switch and is likely to be close enough to work for you.