MF GC2300 w/ Nimco Controller Leak

[Bedrock2300]

I have a MF GC2300 with a front end loader. The controller for the FEL is a Nimco Controller.
If you are on the tractor the right valve stem is leaking. This is the second time this has happened...
The first time was covered under warranty, I won't be so lucky this time. Are there repair kit for this? Should I look at possible replacing the controller with a different one.

Thanks
Dan

 

[Bedrock2300]

I have attached pictures where it is leaking from

 

[irvingj]

Mine has a bit of a leak --somewhere-- in there, but I've never bothered to track it down. It's small, so I just stuff a rag under/betweem hoses to help keep oil off the floor. I'll be interested to see what you find; did the dealer elaborate when you had it repaired under warranty?

 

[massey driver]

I have attached pictures where it is leaking from

Hey guys just seen this post and fixed mine last fall before it got cold. I ended up taking it apart and on the upper end [the end you show in the picture] inside the valve body there's a o-ring that should be changed, went to regular hardware store with the old one.Bought 3 of them.Ok I changed that one no problem.The other end is a bit different as there's actually a packing right behind the washer thats held in by the detent cap spring.Mine was leaking there as well.So after digging all the old packing I was able to put a o-ring in there.Now its a bit different as that washer has a shoulder on it so its got to fit back the same way it was taken off.I did mine and it hasn't leaked so far.Cost of 3 o-rings $ 1.25. The hardest part of the who;e thing was taking the joy stick controls off[the small ball and sockets]There's also some oil leakage when you pull the spool valve out of the control.I did mine right on the tractor just had to take one of the bolts out of the mount brace so that I could lower the valve down a bit in order to let me work on it better as I had my cab on. Larry

 

[Bedrock2300]

Thanks.... I think I will attempt this in the morning. About how long did it take you? Did you have a manual?

Thanks again
Dan

 

[massey driver]

Thanks.... I think I will attempt this in the morning. About how long did it take you? Did you have a manual?

Thanks again
Dan

Hey there Dan no manual [would have been nice] just jumped in and did it.As for the time frame not sure what to say,worst part was taking apart the balls and sockets on the joy stick.Top o-ring is inside about 1/2 " or so where the lower one is on the outside used to be a packing type of material it was very hard and brittle.Actual time even with going into town was about 1/2 day. Guess the first time doing one takes longer don't want to screw anything up so took my time.Larry

 

[Bedrock2300]

Thanks again... I will keep you updated on the PROGRESS!

 

[irvingj]

Good ol' Larry! Thanks for the info. How many hrs were on your tractor when you did this? I sorta figured it might be an o-ring. Mine's leaked --just a bit-- almost since day one.... I've gone through the manual a number of times, but I don't recall seeing a blow-up of the joystick control; I'll look again.

Hey, Bedrock- any possibiliy of some thousand-word pics when you do yours? Guess I'll get into mine sometime when I have some time... and it's WARMER!

 

[massey driver]

I was thinking about whats needed to do this valve in the middle of the night[couldn't sleep] So here goes hopefully this will make it easier.Once you have the cap [detent end off,and the ball socket on the joy stick end apart] this is what you'll need to do.The control rod has to slide into the valve body from the top down[from the joy stick end] only push it in far enough so that you can see the inner o-ring.There's also a wiper ring thats in front of the o-ring.Just remove the o-ring ,remeber to have everything clean,the o-ring has to be put back in the same spot,behind the wiper ring.Oh yeah hang onto the valve rod as it likes to keep sliding on through the valve.Once you have the new o-ring in place push the valve rod back up into the valve. The lower end is a bit different as once you get all the packing out of the bootom of the valve.[Oops forgot to mention that you need to take the spring off the bottom of the valve rod first before doing this step. Once you have the old packing cleaned out of the bottom of the valve body you have to actually put the new o-ring over top of the valve rod and push it into place and into the cut out on the bottom of the valve body.Keep the new o-rings lubricated with oil.Its got to be done this way as you won't beable to slide the rod all the way through from one end to the other with the new o-rings in place due to all the cut out grooves in the valve rod.Its really quite easy to do. Hopefully this will help,by the way I couldn't find anything in the manuals either so just jumped in and did what I needed to do. Larry

 

[Bedrock2300]

Oh, I will definitely be taking pictures and post them.