Broken Bucket Joystick Support

[spencer200]

I am surprised you had to wait for that part. They break so often we stock 3-4 of them all the time.

 

[jinman]

<font color=blue>everytime I look down and want to see what my oil pressure is and all I see is an "idiot" light </font color=blue>

Well Mike, the laugh is on both of us on this one./w3tcompact/icons/laugh.gif The "D" model also has an "idiot light" for oil pressure. We do have a temperature gage, but no oil pressure gage. ...and I agree with you, you should be able to order a deluxe model tractor with a gear-shift tranny. I love my hydro, but in a different application, the standard tranny would be an advantage. I haven't heard of any plans for that in the Boomers. I guess you can get a "D" model TN series tractor that way since they don't have a hydro model. Maybe New Holland wants people to step-up to to the TN to get those features. /w3tcompact/icons/hmm.gif

 

[mikim]

I had a tough time deciding between the 45 and TN65 - but there were a couple of things that turned the tide against the 65. The fuel tank is under the deck, near the ground, and I'd have punctured that in no time clearing my woods. The hyd filter was also a problem on it. It stuck out in harms way and I think I remember that if you had a loader frame on it - you had to remove that to change the filter?? something ... I can't quite recall now - but anyway - I'm real happy with my 45 - just wish it had a full complement of gauges.
mike

 

[Kent]

My fix for broken 16LA joystick

I too was shocked at this pathetic welded rod/plate combination NH used (after it broke off!). I figure they did it so that the button wires could be routed through the inside of the handle (why not use a solid rod and expand the plastic housing for the cable?).

Anyway, here is my fix: 1) I cut off a 6" or so piece of electrical conduit (9/16" ID) and jammed it over the rod end. A very tight fit! 2) I drilled a hole big enough for the wires under the joystick "head" (that round thing that fits in your hand) and routed the wires outside the plastic handle (you have to cut them, which I did, or re-solder them at the switch). 3) tapped two holes in the conduit to hold the screws (which I think are metric, which I replaced with standard #10 because my taps are all standard). 4) wrapped the lower part of the handle with electrical tape to cover the wires.

Appearance/functionally it isn't bad for me (to have the wires outside the plastic case) because my 4-in-1 switch is tie-wrapped to the joystick handle and has wires running outside anyway. So I don't notice the wires coming out of the underside of the ball (hand never went there anyway).

I should slather some silicone around the hole where the wires come out....

The result is that the joystick is much more solid than before! So I probably won't bother to have it replaced with the (inferior) original version.

By the way, mine was overstressed by an afternoon of using a rock-picking bucket, where you really abuse the loader by bouncing the rocks around to sift out the soil.

 

[AnneReynolds]

Same problem, same tractor, same loader, about the same time. Had a man remake the part out of steel and never had a problem since. Stupid engineering. Still have the tractor -- Did yours come with a New Holland electrical gremlin too?

 

[skyhook]

I don't think you'll get an answer, thread is 13 years old.

 

[AnneReynolds]

Yeah, I just felt like venting. More like a demon than a gremlin.....