Removing Rusty Parts

[gerlacr]

I am in the process of replacing the rear axle bearings and oil seals on my Yanmar 1500D. Sitting in flooded rice patties all these years has really rusted up many parts. The problem is the rear wheel axle hub (correct terminology?) that slides onto the splines of the rear axle. I managed to get the first side off with a lot of WD40, hammer whacks, a gear puller and application of heat to the hub. The second side has not moved a bit even after applying all of the previous techniques. Any suggestions out there from the vast universe of experienced and crafty experts.

[RanchMan]

Hmmm. Sounds like you got a bit of a jam on your hands. From your description, it sounds like the old AMC 20 axle assembly on Jeeps.

I like WD-40 for lots of stuff, but for removing rusted-together stuff, I use <A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.gunk.com/autocat3.asp?pic=L112>Liquid Wrench Super Penetrant</A>. I'll admit, sometimes it has taken multiple applications over several days, but it does seem to work a lot of the time.

Not sure what type of gear puller you are using, but there are some pretty heavy-duty ones out there. Perhaps seeing if you could find one with a lower pitch thread (e.g. more pressure exerted) may help.

Last thing I can think of is if you can remove the axle shaft/hub assembly from the axle housing/differential as a unit, you could use a couple of things to remove the hub from the axle shaft. You could use a press (12 or 20 ton - like they sell @ Harbor Freight for $100-200). You could also try using dry ice and to cool the axle shaft. Once it's cooled use the press or gear puller. It's kindof the torch thing in reverse. Course, this works a lot better for putting two tight fitting things together since you don't have any temperature transfer when the items are separate, unlike when they are together, but it's worth a shot.

Course, if the hub is stuck that well on the axleshaft, I'm a little curious why you wish to remove it. [img]/w3tcompact/icons/hmm.gif[/img] (do you need to remove it to get to the bearings?) I'll admit, I don't know anything about Yanmars, just a thought.

Hopefully some of these ideas will help! Good luck!!!

[TBone]

<font color=blue>I like WD-40 for lots of stuff, but for removing rusted-together stuff, I use Liquid Wrench Super Penetrant.</font color=blue>

Like Ranchman, I used to use Liquid Wrench but about two months ago someone on this board was talking about PB Blaster and how good it was. I bought a can and have used it twice on some rusty farm equipment. I tell you, it's the best $2.99 I ever spent. It seems to work quicker and better than Liquid Wrench to me. I bought mine at Auto Zone but I think most of the auto parts houses stock it. GOOD LUCK!

TBone

[TBone]

I forgot, they also have a website: <A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.pbblaster.com>http://www.pbblaster.com</A>.

TBone

[RanchMan]

I'll have to give that a whirl sometime.

[SimS]

TBone is right, PB Blaster works great. Kroil aerosol is a good one also. I have used WD-40 and Liquid Wrench but PB Blaster and Kroil are in another league. Kroil is hard to find in retail stores, but some of the auto parts stores carry PB Blaster. Advanced and NAPA for sure. Good luck.

SimS

[gerlacr]

I'm leaving right now to get some PBBlaster from Autozone. I'll report back tomorrow or Sunday. Thanks for all of the help. You guys never disappoint.

[cowboydoc]

If you have one I use a cutting torch. I don't cut it off but I heat it up and then pull it off.

[neilw]

Another vote for PB Blaster. The stuff works great.

[gerlacr]

Success. The hub is finally off. It took an overnight soaking with PB Blaster , more heat and allot more hammer whacks to get it loose, but it worked. Thanks for the help.