TuffTorq K46 Repair Guide with Pictures

   / TuffTorq K46 Repair Guide with Pictures #161  
Hello, all!

I'd like everyone's take on a slightly different but related matter concerning the K46. I'm about to take delivery of a Husqvarna 24V42LS with a K46 and Hilliard auto-locking diff. From the perspective of present owners, and especially those of you who've actually dug into and revived damaged K46s, what should I, as a new owner, do to prolong the life of my new transaxle?

What would you guys do?

I too have a low hour (35) K46 Deere X300, 4 year warentee so I'll be carefull no to void it. Changing ther oil to synthetic 5-50 can be done with no visable evidence. Keep the trans clean and cool can help the most. Would like to add the drain plugs but then the warentee would get voided. Just hope Tuff Torque (especially Derrick) is in business in 10 years when I might need them:)
 
   / TuffTorq K46 Repair Guide with Pictures #162  
Great thread guys !! I am now inspired to tackle my own!

Could someone post pics of the damaged parts? I assume there must be some damage to the sealing faces of the pump or motor?

I can get a john deere with the k46 tranny (real cheap) however it doesnt move! :)
 
   / TuffTorq K46 Repair Guide with Pictures #163  
I rebuilt my K46 TuffTorq transmission following the guide posted by LotsofGreenGrass - and other blogs on the subject. It is not a "simple" procedure but it is doable and saved me at least $1000. Thanks LotsofGreenGrass! I replaced the cylinder motor, cylinder pump and filter as well as installed a drain plug (now I think I need two after viewing the prior post diagram of placement for drain plugs). I also installed a transmission cooler that I will post my pictures of how I did this. The transaxle is fully restored and back to 100% power.

As for what to do to keep this problem from occurring if you have the same sealed transaxle (K46)? Even though my service manual mentioned nothing about it you need to:

1. have the transmission serviced - change the oil at least once a year - perhaps every 50 hours of operation.
2. keep the cooling fins on the transaxle clean after each use so the transaxle can cool. I power spray mine now after each use after learning the hard way.

I have a lot of hill to climb and sometimes I pull heavy loads of wood and rock so that is one reason I went the extra mile and installed a transmission cooler. I found a cooler that is small enough to be mounted directly above the fan on the transaxle, installed a small D.C. pump on the rear of the chassis and tapped a hole for a brass fitting to allow the pump to circulate oil from the bottom of the hydrostatic compartment into the "fill hole" with another brass fitting and a rubber grommet to seal the fitting and return line.
I installed the switch next to my drive switch in the console. This cost me about $200 but is worth the extra peace of mind
 
   / TuffTorq K46 Repair Guide with Pictures #164  
Could you please post the details of the parts you used for this mod? This sounds like an excellent idea.

Did you consider adding a filter of some sort? Do you think that something like an inline fuel filter would work? The type of fuel filter used in my wife's old 325iX could be a good candidate since it's on the largish side, made of steel, and uses hose fittings at the I/O.
 
   / TuffTorq K46 Repair Guide with Pictures #165  
I rebuilt my K46 TuffTorq transmission following the guide posted by LotsofGreenGrass - and other blogs on the subject. It is not a "simple" procedure but it is doable and saved me at least $1000. Thanks LotsofGreenGrass! I replaced the cylinder motor, cylinder pump and filter as well as installed a drain plug (now I think I need two after viewing the prior post diagram of placement for drain plugs). I also installed a transmission cooler that I will post my pictures of how I did this. The transaxle is fully restored and back to 100% power.

As for what to do to keep this problem from occurring if you have the same sealed transaxle (K46)? Even though my service manual mentioned nothing about it you need to:

1. have the transmission serviced - change the oil at least once a year - perhaps every 50 hours of operation.
2. keep the cooling fins on the transaxle clean after each use so the transaxle can cool. I power spray mine now after each use after learning the hard way.

I have a lot of hill to climb and sometimes I pull heavy loads of wood and rock so that is one reason I went the extra mile and installed a transmission cooler. I found a cooler that is small enough to be mounted directly above the fan on the transaxle, installed a small D.C. pump on the rear of the chassis and tapped a hole for a brass fitting to allow the pump to circulate oil from the bottom of the hydrostatic compartment into the "fill hole" with another brass fitting and a rubber grommet to seal the fitting and return line.
I installed the switch next to my drive switch in the console. This cost me about $200 but is worth the extra peace of mind

Be careful not to introduce air into the oil by pumping it too high in the case , the return line should be below the level of oil at all times.

Also make sure that the pump would not starve the pickup for the transaxle itself.
 
   / TuffTorq K46 Repair Guide with Pictures #166  
Update on my K46....It is still working very well ! I monitor the temp of the transmission with a infared temp gun and have compared it with my neighbour's X300 which happens to have a large opening (frame removed?)underneath the seat to allow for more air to escape ? Both axles after approx 1 hr straight use resulted in 120-130 degree F case temp.....Keeping it clean of debris is a very good idea....I too would like to see the oil cooler addition ! I have been researching the external oil pump and found some from race application motorcycles but....they were quite expensive.....My Thank's to all to have post on here !
 
   / TuffTorq K46 Repair Guide with Pictures #167  
Both axles after approx 1 hr straight use resulted in 120-130 degree F case temp

At those temps the oil will last a very long time without breaking down , almost a lifetime hence the "non-servicable" design! The addition of an oil cooler would just be adding unneccesary complexity to a system that is working perfectly.
 
   / TuffTorq K46 Repair Guide with Pictures #168  
Thermal breakdown is only part of the picture, unfortunately. The other part is contamination from wear particles. The only provisions for dealing with this problem are the minimal filter at the pump input and the magnet(s). Neither is a great confidence-builder, since the mechanical filter isn't able to catch very small particles and the magnets will capture only ferrous particles. A real filter capable of 20-30u filtering would probably make a big difference in longevity. Maybe that's worth the added complexity of an external oil circuit, maybe not. If there were an obvious choice of 12V pump and inline filter, I'd seriously consider (adding and) using the two drain plugs on the lower case to circulate filtered oil. Adding these parts would also make oil changes a whole lot easier since the entire task could be performed using the external oil carrying components without need to access the openings on the top of the unit.

On a related matter, those of you contemplating an oil change ought to look at Amsoil's 15W-50 racing oil: Dominator Synthetic 15W-50 Racing Oil (RD50)
Impressive stuff, especially the 4-ball wear test. Note the extreme parameters on the test compared to the 4-ball tests on other products. After about 10-15 hours of break-in on my new K46CR, I'm switching to this.
 
   / TuffTorq K46 Repair Guide with Pictures #169  
Thank you all for sharing your experiences/experiments. It is clear that the damage most of you found is consistent with oil film breakdown. This happens due to (over)heating linked with quality (old) oil.
The queston was raised on a class action suit. Surely the manufactureres have encouraged (known) failures by:
1) Using not the best quality oil.
2) Not recommanding regular (annual?) oil changes.
3) Not recommanding regular cleaning of the debris accumulating on the transaxel that stops it being cooled effectively.

In the development program the sensativity to overheating must have been very well known and dimetioned seeing the ventilator that's mounted.

In doing not issuing service requirement they appear to have created a lucrative aftermarket for parts and services.
I wonder how much this premeditated aftermaket is worth: any idea's?

From some of the comments made this is not a JD unique issue.


My 3 cents
 
   / TuffTorq K46 Repair Guide with Pictures #170  
There are two basic approaches to engineering/economics of this kind of equipment. There's the commercial type of equipment that's made with long-term longevity in mind, aimed at professionals who won't balk at a $12,000 mower because it's a principal tool in making their living and reliability/uptime matters a lot. Equipment designed for these customers is generally built for the long run with good serviceability and support because there would be no market for it otherwise. The engineers and marketers know that it's worth putting that extra margin of strength and durability in it because they know it will pay off in the long run with a good reputation and a loyal customer base.

Then there are the penny-pinching homeowners who whine about every dollar something costs. Those generally aren't the people reading and posting in this thread, but they are BY FAR the largest population in this market segment. For this market, the engineering/economics dictates that the equipment be cost-engineered to hit the market price point(s) and to make it through the warranty period. There's little thought given to longevity and serviceability because 1) the customer base has no loyalty other than price, 2) homeowners don't take care of their equipment, so why add extra cost by making it serviceable, 3) anything put into the equipment that makes it last longer than the warranty period is foregone profit.

Case in point: how many homeowners buy Scag equipment? Not many, I suspect. Take their ZTR line for example. In the low-to-midrange equipment, what hydros do they use? The ZT-3100. They could (actually, they did briefly on their low-end ZTR, but only for a year or two) use the ZT-2800, which is identical except for the gear construction. The 3100 has real steel gears, the 2800 has powder gears. But since they understand their market and they're not morons, they choose the more costly parts because they know that their market demands that and in the long run, it will pay off with reputation and customer loyalty.

Unfortunately, we're caught in the middle. Not to say that we're cost-oblivious, but I believe that most of us here understand what we're buying and would be willing to pay an extra hundred or three for a more robust hydro and thicker steel in the frame than we find in what's offered to us. My recent tractor shopping was a little exasperating since I was constrained by the size of deck (storage limitations), and my aversion to flimsy stamped-steel decks - too many tree roots to hit. Plus, due to some slippery and irregular ground conditions, I was determined to find some kind of limited-slip or locking differential. A ZTR was not an option because of towing my Cyclone Rake over the inclines that are everywhere around the house. That narrowed the selection to basically one choice, and it has a K46. I'd have been a whole lot happier paying a couple of hundred more for something sporting a K66 (as long as it had the locking diff), but that's not an option in smaller machines.

So I'm resigned to making the best of a compromise situation. That means as a minimum yanking out the transaxle every 100-200 hours for an oil change with premium oil. It may mean adding in a real filter at some point after warranty expiration. It's not an ideal situation, for sure.

BTW, TT does not actually have their head in the sand. Read what they say about maintenance here: https://www.tufftorqservices.com/EnvEEdefault/FlatHTML/TechInfo/ttcoil/pdfs/OIL CHANGE FREQUENCY.pdf
 
 
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