TuffTorq K46 Repair Guide with Pictures

[BATTY54]

I had to remove mine again to check the oil level. But at over 2 quarts you should have put in enough.

 

[DonH63]

I had to remove mine also to check the oil level. It only took a little more fluid. Been about 5 hours and still running strong. Definitely faster and stronger then before. Climbs hills without any loss of power.

 

[MD83Z]

OK...here is a pic of the scratches in my trans pan....I don't remember removing the final gear #62 so I'm not sure how it got out of place. Oil was full of aluminum and center case #24 was scored up. Now back together with $300 of pump motor and center case....Operates like new, but I plan to drain and check oil after a first mow.

 

[MD83Z]

This is on a K46AC Scotts L2548...probably 6 or so yrs old I will post the hrs.
It was slow in reverse so I changed the oil...I guess the pan didn't seat properly.

 

[joebob]

I thought I would just mention how I got my Scotts 2554 working again. I believe it is the K66 transmission. Three years ago the tranny went out. I changed the belt and fluid (turns out the fluid needs changing on a periodic basis - not that the owner manual ever said this) with no change. A new transmission from JD $1700 w/o installation. In my efforts to come up with an alternative, I came across a guy who rebuilds these for $400. But instead of a new cylinder/piston?, he has the original milled down. New oil and filter and whatever he else he needed, the tractor ran better than when it was new. I was impressed with the fix.

Rock; See my post. Look up Joebob I had the parts milled.

 

[joebob]

Here we go again! My Deere L110 w/ a k46 quit moving again. Found out the cap (#15) w/ the rubber top that I foolishly repaired had come open & let lots of crap in. I had the parts surface ground again, (this time I had to grind the motor & pump faces also), it had bits of tiny sticks & grit in it, & buggered up the surfaces again. I reassembled it, bled it, & it would'nt move. Gave it up for the day, thinking I might have to take it apart again. Next morning, started it up, & it moved, what a relief. I did'nt prime anything, cuz it was'nt necessary the first time. I guess you have to be really persistent W/ the bleeding. Don't know why a lot of you guys are still spending hundreds on parts when a $25 (in this case) repair is such a good fix. The scraches are very slight, & only .001 to .002 has to be taken off. One thing, make sure washer (#39) dos'nt stand proud of cyl. surface if the cyl. has to be ground also. LT166, don't know why your repair did'nt work. must have something else wrong. Don't throw your parts away guys.
Cheers
Joebob

 

[denver of the east]

lt166 tell us some more about the gear change. what gear did you change and what ratio did you go to? Did tuff torq help you with everything you needed? Is it still working well?
Thanks
I have about 30 hours on my rebuild and seems to be holding up well

 

[evo803]

Here is a question for lotsofgreengrass........Do you know if the replacement parts are upgraded or redesigned from the original parts or are they the same? Has Tuff Torq indicated that they believe the failure is mainly due to the oil or was it a combination of issues? I am actually wondering, after my rebuild this past weekend what I have. Do I have a somewhat improved unit or do I have the exact original unit (except a different filter and added magnets) with different oil? I am wondering how long to expect this to last. Is it now a tranny, with occasional oil changes, that will last 10 years? The truth is my L130 is decent lawn tractor outside of the tranny issues. It is well built and is otherwise holding up great. I like that if I need something for it the local dealer has the parts in stock. I owned a Yardman for 13 years and it did fine until it died. the exception was when I needed a part like a spindle and I had to wait a week or so for the part to come in and the truth is the parts were...well...cheaper. Also the Yardman was a rust bucket. I paid entry level money for it (much less than entry level JD) so I was satisfied with the overall outcome and no knock on Yardman is intended.

The thing that gets me is when the JD dealer or others on here say "if you want a real JD you need to buy a x3... or some other upgraded model". My tractor was sold as a JD by JD with the JD colors and labels. It is a real JD. If JD wanted to enter the market at a lower price point they should have done 1 of 2 things. Release a tractor under a different brand or stand behind the lower priced JD's like they would with the other models. They are hoping that people see the JD colors and make a purchase in trust that this amazing company has developed a product in a range that they can afford which ton's of people did. They should be willing to stand behind their product like it was a "real" JD.......

I hate being made to feel like I am lessor of a person or tractor owner because I simply can not afford $2500 or more to cut 1 acre of grass on a moderate slope.

lotsofgreengrass....you are terrific for helping us out with the rebuild tips and support!!!

Rant over

I think you have champagne & caviar taste onCheeto's & cheetos budget. Do you really think it's a real JD when you can get them at Big Box Stores. You should have known given your yard size and moderate slope that maybe the cheapest, bottom of the barrel k46 was not a good choice if you are wanting 10 yrs out of it. The yardman lasted 13yrs that really confirms that JD needs to make so much on each unit and will cut any and all corners on parts and design to ensure they achieve that price point.

That tractor is the one you buy just get the job done until you save enough money to get the proper tool for the job. Then you trade it in on a nice Simplicity. IMHO JD charges a premium for there stuff ,unfortunately it is just not worth that premium anymore .

 

[klem]

Just wanted to report back after a month or so. The draining and refill with synthetic 5w50 worked very well. My lawn tractor is taking the hills again and has plenty of torque. So, in my case, the replacement part/rebuild process was not necessary. But I know where to turn when it's time for the overhaul. Thanks again for all the help from the folks at this fine forum.

 

[crazyflyboy30]

Hey all I have a Husqvarna LGT26K54 26-HP with a TuffTorq K46aw I have only 5.8 hours so far I am big on full synthetic oil so got some 3 qt.s 5w50 Syntec will pull the TuffTorq out and do the old flip and fill with the Syntec is there more I can do? Super cooler?