Page 42 of 72 FirstFirst ... 323940414243444552 ... LastLast
Results 411 to 420 of 713
  1. #411
    New Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Posts
    15
    Location
    Etna, NH
    Tractor
    L130

    Default Re: TuffTorq K46 Repair Guide with Pictures

    After months of self-debate, I finally decided to try the Change The Oil Only diet and avoid the pump/motor surgery as much as possible on my L130. I ordered just these parts, and bought Castrol Edge 5W50 oil from the local AutoZone:
    1. 187Q0399940 DRAIN BOLT KIT 2 0.87 1.74
    2. 1A646083050 FAN WHITE 1 7.51 7.51
    3. 168T2024250 VENT VALVE 1 6.18 6.18
    4. 168T2036300 SEALING CAP 30 1 2.42 2.42
    5. 168T2025220 FILTER 105 1 10.21 10.21

    I was pretty disappointed at the $16.05 UPS Ground charge for such a small order, since it would have fit inside a $10 USPS Priority Mail Medium Flat Rate Box, although I would have much preferred "free" Amazon Prime shipping.

    I got the vent valve and sealing cap on the advice of a previous post. I broke the vent valve while removing it, so I'm very grateful! The sealing cap stayed intact, but I replaced it anyways since the rubber had already developed an outside surface crack. The magnet had a nice collection of metal bits, but didn't strike me as overly concerning for an old machine with 374 hours.
    -2012-10-23-813-1-a

    I didn't use the filter as I decided to drill and tap the bottom case in situ and didn't feel like cracking the case and sealing it up again. And this would be a good exercise to see how little work I can get away with. Thankfully I already had an M8x1.25 tap in my toolbox so that saved me at least $6.
    -2012-10-28-831-1-a-2012-10-28-833-1-a

    Overall it took me about 3 hours to remove the transaxle, drain the oil, add the two new drain holes, fill with new oil, replace the damaged fan, and reinstall the transaxle. A snap ring tool was needed to remove the fan. Although I had to replace my fan anyways, it really needs to come out to gain access to the sealing cap.

    When I first drove it, it was slow moving, but gradually regained its speed after a few minutes of driving back and forth. I won't really know how effective the oil change will be until we get hot weather again next summer, since I took off the mower and installed the snowthrower in preparation for whatever Sandy decides to bring to NH.

  2. #412
    Bronze Member RBLapham's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Posts
    74
    Location
    Ohio
    Tractor
    John Deere X300

    Default Re: TuffTorq K46 Repair Guide with Pictures

    Quote Originally Posted by wactbn View Post
    -2012-10-23-813-1-a
    I hope you cleaned the cooling fin's they look pretty plugged up. Keeping it clean is a prime reason it will last longer.
    Deere X300, Cyclone Rake Commander Pro, Plug aerator, Murray plow on X300

  3. #413
    Silver Member evo803's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Posts
    133

    Default Re: TuffTorq K46 Repair Guide with Pictures

    Quote Originally Posted by wactbn View Post
    After months of self-debate, I finally decided to try the Change The Oil Only diet and avoid the pump/motor surgery as much as possible on my L130. I ordered just these parts, and bought Castrol Edge 5W50 oil from the local AutoZone:
    1. 187Q0399940 DRAIN BOLT KIT 2 0.87 1.74
    2. 1A646083050 FAN WHITE 1 7.51 7.51
    3. 168T2024250 VENT VALVE 1 6.18 6.18
    4. 168T2036300 SEALING CAP 30 1 2.42 2.42
    5. 168T2025220 FILTER 105 1 10.21 10.21

    I was pretty disappointed at the $16.05 UPS Ground charge for such a small order, since it would have fit inside a $10 USPS Priority Mail Medium Flat Rate Box, although I would have much preferred "free" Amazon Prime shipping.

    I got the vent valve and sealing cap on the advice of a previous post. I broke the vent valve while removing it, so I'm very grateful! The sealing cap stayed intact, but I replaced it anyways since the rubber had already developed an outside surface crack. The magnet had a nice collection of metal bits, but didn't strike me as overly concerning for an old machine with 374 hours.
    -2012-10-23-813-1-a

    I didn't use the filter as I decided to drill and tap the bottom case in situ and didn't feel like cracking the case and sealing it up again. And this would be a good exercise to see how little work I can get away with. Thankfully I already had an M8x1.25 tap in my toolbox so that saved me at least $6.
    -2012-10-28-831-1-a-2012-10-28-833-1-a

    Overall it took me about 3 hours to remove the transaxle, drain the oil, add the two new drain holes, fill with new oil, replace the damaged fan, and reinstall the transaxle. A snap ring tool was needed to remove the fan. Although I had to replace my fan anyways, it really needs to come out to gain access to the sealing cap.

    When I first drove it, it was slow moving, but gradually regained its speed after a few minutes of driving back and forth. I won't really know how effective the oil change will be until we get hot weather again next summer, since I took off the mower and installed the snowthrower in preparation for whatever Sandy decides to bring to NH.
    Why didnt you order from amazon ? Shipping cost's are high due to labor rates and fuel prices in the US .

  4. #414
    New Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Posts
    2
    Location
    Peterborough UK
    Tractor
    Countax, Cub cadet

    Default Re: TuffTorq K46 Repair Guide with Pictures

    Quick update on replacing the deferential gears.

    I've emailed Derrick at TT about this.

    Having assembled things I'm alarmed at the amount of play in the new differential gears.

    Are there any official (or unofficial) figures for the #61 diff kit, c-ring, thrust washer or axle end float clearances?

    Visually, the other components appear to be ok and nothing appears to be too worn, But I'd imagine the excess play was a major factor in the drive gear wear pattern (as attached) the coast gear war pattern looked ok.

    With the Thrust washers (#70) and c-rings (#71) in place the final gear (#62) moves alarmingly and I need to push in the #61 side gears to remove the play.
    Then there seems to be over 2mm clearance each side between the #61 side gears and #71 c-rings.
    It looks like there should be some kind of shims or thrust washers between the #61 side gears and #70/#71 components.

    My previous experience with cars and shaft drive motorbikes tells me that the clearance between side and pinion gears should be a fairly close fit.

    As a test, I made up some .75mm shims between the c-ring and side gear and that's tightened things up considerably, but I'm not convinced it's the sole answer - or even advisable :-)

    Anyone else noticed this?

  5. #415
    New Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Posts
    15
    Location
    Etna, NH
    Tractor
    L130

    Default Re: TuffTorq K46 Repair Guide with Pictures

    Quote Originally Posted by evo803 View Post
    Why didnt you order from amazon ? Shipping cost's are high due to labor rates and fuel prices in the US .
    How did you find these parts on Amazon? I found only the white fan on Ebay, but none of the other parts. I even entertained buying motorcycle drain bolts, but I couldn't find any on Ebay nor Amazon in M8 size and for less than Tuff Torq including shipping.

    I've been getting very good shipping rates on many parts (John deere mower & snowthrower parts, Generac generator parts, Poulan Pro chainsaw parts, Delta faucets, etc.) I buy on Amazon and on Ebay, mostly thanks to plenty of competition. Tuff Torq doesn't seem to have many competitors to think about.

  6. #416
    New Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Posts
    15
    Location
    Etna, NH
    Tractor
    L130

    Default Re: TuffTorq K46 Repair Guide with Pictures

    Quote Originally Posted by RBLapham View Post
    I hope you cleaned the cooling fin's they look pretty plugged up. Keeping it clean is a prime reason it will last longer.
    I brushed more of the dead grass off the fins before putting it back on the mower. It was no surprise that three of the cooling fan blades were broken off when I bought the L130 three months ago. The previous owner was pretty diligent about maintaining it for the first few years, but slacked off for the last few.

  7. #417
    New Member
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Posts
    17
    Location
    fallston,maryland
    Tractor
    1958 JD 620,JD 410 backhoe,scotts L2548

    Default Re: TuffTorq K46 Repair Guide with Pictures

    For George Brennan....I thought the play in the diff. gears was excessive in my trans..and asked Derrick without a good answer. It seems to be doing fine now. I replaced the large gear because of wear in the slots that the pins for the smaller spider gears ride in.....I just supposed that the slow speeds don't require exact tolerances here.

  8. #418
    New Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Posts
    5
    Location
    athol idaho
    Tractor
    craftsman lawn tractor 917.28870

    Default Re: TuffTorq K46 Repair Guide with Pictures

    UPDATE as of Nov 15, 2012
    -dsc00147-jpg -dsc00148-jpg -dsc00149-jpg -dsc00151-jpg -dsc00152-jpg -dsc00153-jpg -dsc00155-jpg
    I used a Dremel Tool with a small wire wheel to clean the old gasket material off the mating surfaces. It helped to get the material out of the little groove that is in the middle of portions of the surfaces.
    I then used acetone to get the surfaces really clean.
    I had a loose round magnet that I couldn't figure out wear it went. Called TuffTorq but no one was there except for the operator. She sent me an email attachment supposedly showing where the magnet went, but it didn't have anything but a little black arrow that didn't show anything. I looked at the parts blow up for my K46BT tranny at:https://www.tufftorqservices.com/COM...er?mode=comnet
    It appeared that the magnet labeled part 8 which fits into the magnet holder labeled part 9 was under the Seal Cap 30 labeled part 15. Didn't see any other magnets in the blow up, but I had one that fell out when I dropped the lower pan. I decided to use the Seal All glue in the yellow tube that is supposed to be impervious to oil and gas and glued it into the circle of the lower pan which will be under the filter and on the bottom of the tranny when it's installed. Hopefully the glue will hold. If it comes loose, the magnet could get sucked into the gears and cause big problems. The TuffTorq operator Kay said they had heard of people epoxying the magnet, but I wasn't sure that epoxy would hold up in the heat and oil.
    I went to check for another magnet holder among the parts that I had sitting on the foot pads of my lawn tractor and found the two brake pads. Glad I found them before I sealed the tranny pan on. Had a little trouble figuring out how they went in as the parts blowup isn't clear, but I looked at LOGG's pictures and saw that they go on either side of the brake disk. My pictures above show the magnet glued into the lower pan, the seal cap being removed and the magnet and magnet holder pulled out. I showed the Seal All glue so you can find it at your local stores. It worked good to seal up a plastic fuel tank on a child's ATV that cracked along a seam. Epoxy didn't work at all. only dripped through the crack and never hardened, probably because it was pretty old or I didn't put in enough hardner. Also showed the Ultra Copper gasket goo I will use per a previous poster's recommendation. The glue is drying tonight and I will probably put the tranny pan on tomorrow (my 68th birthday, what else should you do but get something done on your birthday at this age? I can't sit around eating cake all day...but drinking wine wouldn't be so bad...maybe I'll wait until the weekend when it's raining again!)
    I might should a video pointing out the various things I found broken and how I cleaned up what I thought were some areas that needed a little polishing and cleaning before re-assembly. I just hope I have the forward/backward part in right so I don't have to redo the job.

    Accidently posted an IMPEACH OBAMA pic I had in my pictures folder that I post on my blog at:
    GOLDTRADERCOMMENTSAUGUST2010.BLOGSPOT.COM
    I removed it from the main post but can't remove it from the ATTACHED THUMBNAILS below
    Give my blog a view. You will learn lots if you follow it daily. I post lots of important information to help you learn just how fast out country is going to heck and is about to suffer a complete economic collapse. Follow me daily as things are falling apart extremely fast, maybe even by the end of the year or sooner if this Petraeus mess brings Obama down. I'm not for Romney either as almost all of the people running for office are simply self-serving greedy criminals being bought by the banksters and corporations to do their bidding. They don't give a darn about us citizens. We are expendable. Ron Paul was the only honest man speaking the truth and even he wouldn't have been able to fix this mess. The only thing that will do that is a complete default on the debt and starting over clean which won't ever happen and would lead to complete violent anarchy, so until then, which WILL HAPPEN EVENTUALLY, the Fed will keep printing paper fiat money until the dollar isn't even good for toilet paper. Get ready for some very hard times ahead. We probably will be pushing our hand mowers unless we can make these tractors run on bio fuel. Either that, or eating the grass.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails -dsc00142-jpg   -dsc00143-jpg   -dsc00144-jpg   -dsc00146-jpg   -impeach-obama-jpg  

    Last edited by cedricward; 11-15-2012 at 07:00 PM. Reason: removed a picture, spacing pictures for better viewing

  9. #419
    Member
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Posts
    37
    Location
    Sydney, Australia
    Tractor
    JD L110, MTD Yardman, Toro Wheelhorse 268-H, JD LA120

    Default Re: TuffTorq K46 Repair Guide with Pictures

    Hi All,

    I managed to pick up a JD LA120 on the cheap because oil was poring out of the RH shaft....Turns out the shaft washer had warn straight through allowing the wheel spacer push into the shaft seal, ripping it open. The mower was just about moving when I picked it up and there was a small amount of oil still in there (about half a quart).
    Anyway I have few questions for all you K46 specialists .... before I investigate what's happened inside...

    • If a transaxle runs low on oil will it damage itself or just stop running?
    • Is there anything that I should closely inspect in there when I open up the case?
    • I have a T40J TRANSMISSION ..... But what's the "W/FILTER IDS"?


    Many thanks for your help
    Neo

    -k46-label-jpg
    Last edited by Neo; 11-16-2012 at 08:32 PM.

  10. #420
    Member
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Posts
    37
    Location
    Sydney, Australia
    Tractor
    JD L110, MTD Yardman, Toro Wheelhorse 268-H, JD LA120

    Default Re: TuffTorq K46 Repair Guide with Pictures

    Hi,

    Can anyone help me with these questions above???

    Also, does anyone know what this adjuster and locking not does?

    I need to find a replacement wheel shaft seal too.... Would I be able to get this from a regular seals and bearing shop ... or is this really something special that only TT can supply?
    Below is a picture of the LH seal that's still Ok.


    All the best.
    Neo

    -20121118_090916-jpg

    -20121118_090723-jpg

Page 42 of 72 FirstFirst ... 323940414243444552 ... LastLast

Similar Threads

  1. Replies: 13
    Last Post: 05-31-2009, 08:50 AM
  2. JD Owning/Operating FAQ (Please Help)
    By Muhammad in forum John Deere Owning/Operating
    Replies: 42
    Last Post: 02-08-2009, 10:38 PM
  3. cub cadet panel repair
    By harleyizy in forum Parts/Repairs
    Replies: 8
    Last Post: 12-12-2008, 12:49 AM
  4. Pictures, Pictures
    By ddl in forum News/Feedback
    Replies: 9
    Last Post: 11-17-2001, 08:35 PM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
© 2013 TractorByNet.com. TractorByNet is a registered trademark of IMC Digital Universe, Inc. Other trademarks on this page are the property of their respective owners.