TuffTorq K46 Repair Guide with Pictures

[joebob]

I forgot to add that the machine shop guy had no problem grinding across the case, close, bot do able

[idakiteman]

I forgot to add that the machine shop guy had no problem grinding across the case, close, bot do able

Joebob...thanks for followup. I'm sure there are many different sorts of milling/grinding/polishing machines, and some may be able to do the centercase while others not. Could you phone the shop you used and ask them what make/model machine they used and let us know. Make it easier when hunting/phoning shops to ask if they have a specific machine or equivalent...Thanks.

[idakiteman]

Also, about washer #39 that sits in recesses between motor revolver and center case...my unit is back together (and running like new, BTW) so I can't verify, but I'm pretty sure that washer is there to provide a smooth, slower spinning surface for the bypass pin to contact when it's pushed to separate the motor and centercase for freewheeling. It may perform other functions too, but that's one primary function I could see. But you'll see a bright ring or track on that washer from bypass pin contact.

Also, I did not buy the magnets & holder upgrade for the centercase because the ring filter looked pretty darn clean despite my tranny clearly being about shot, and it'd only trap ferrous debris, not aluminum. I'd have had to wait another week to get those parts from TT and paid $16 shipping, so didn't seem to be worth the time or money. If I decide to do the "K57 upgrade" which adds the "charge pump", I'd do the magnets along with that.

[Kyle_in_Tex]

Well that repair didnt last very long, plowed about 200 feety of laneway, went to put it in reverse and the belt came off, cant get the belt to stay on the pulley, now I feel some obstruction in the pulley,guess the transaxle is finished now. I'll have to call TuffTorq for a whole new transaxle.

I was kindof afraid there was a reason for the stripped pulley/belt jumping. Maybe a cracked gear tooth getting caught? Hope you can fix it cheap.

[trainguy]

Trainguy here, I ordered a new transaxle from TuffTorq's website. The JD dealer wanted $962. for a new one, and direct from the manufacturer its $583.00
since we get a lot of snow up here I dont have time to do a repair. Once I get it going I will try to overhaul the old one with new parts. I will go back to square one and read all the posts here and dismantle it and order the parts required for the repair. The transaxle was never out of the tractor since one of the four bolts holding it to the frame was seized in the axle housing. I know the guy and the JD dealer who both say its never been repaired before. Right now I have the old one split apart, the magnet if loaded up pretty good and the one filter I see is absolutely filthy. Getting my camers ready to document the assembly.

[sjsmith2262]

Trainguy here, I ordered a new transaxle from TuffTorq's website. The JD dealer wanted $962. for a new one, and direct from the manufacturer its $583.00
since we get a lot of snow up here I dont have time to do a repair. Once I get it going I will try to overhaul the old one with new parts. I will go back to square one and read all the posts here and dismantle it and order the parts required for the repair. The transaxle was never out of the tractor since one of the four bolts holding it to the frame was seized in the axle housing. I know the guy and the JD dealer who both say its never been repaired before. Right now I have the old one split apart, the magnet if loaded up pretty good and the one filter I see is absolutely filthy. Getting my camers ready to document the assembly.

Trainguy,
regarding "bolts holding it to the frame was seized in the axle housing", there's a great write-up out here somewhere on on anti-seize stuff. Unfortunately I do not have the link to it, but... bottom-line to it was mix a 50-50 solution of: ACETONE and ATF (Automatic Transmission Fluid). I've personally tried this homemade concoction and without question Liquid Wrench doesn't hold a candle, not even close to the home brew... (be careful though with the acetone, highly flammable and it will eat any painted surface)

[joebob]

Ida;
I'll try to get the info on what was used. I did'nt see the machine, but was told it was a surface grinder, using kerosene, I think to grind the aluminum block.

[Getgood]

Been reading through the posts and can't thank those enough for the knowledge and help in advance.

I bought a 2005 L118 recently with known transmission problems. 450 hours, regularly serviced, other than transmission its in excellent condition.

Dropped transmission easy enough and will get to opening it tomorrow, but found the initial problem this evening. There is a hole in the lower casing about the size of a thumb. Please see picture.

I'll get a better look inside tomorrow but does anyone know if the casing is repairable? Welding or metal epoxy?

Appreciate any tips.
Thanks,
John

[idakiteman]

OMG John...that is one big hole. If it was a lot smaller, I'd suggest patching w/ some JB Weld, but that looks too big I'm afraid. I'm no welder and don't know if tranny case is weldable metal (aluminum) or unweldable potmetal, or even if weldable, if something that big is weldable while keeping added material thin enough to avoid interference w/ differential gear. I'd be concerned about strength & durability of any patch that large, whether welded or JB Weld. Added material has to stay thin and could make weak spot. You can buy replacement lower case from Tuff Torq for $135.00. However, the bigger issue to understand is: because of that hole, the tranny no doubt ran without oil and that may have irreparably damaged many other parts. It doesn't take too many parts before cost starts exceeding cost of a good used or new tranny. Let us know what the inside looks like, but your best bet may be to buy a used or new replacement tranny.

[joebob]

John;
Shurly some one has a spare case to give you, w/all the bad trannys around.