TuffTorq K46 Repair Guide with Pictures

   / TuffTorq K46 Repair Guide with Pictures #471  
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So a few pictures from what I found inside. Spent a few nights cleaning it all up. Culprits were the planetary gears inside the final gear along with the axle gears. All were significantly worn with several teeth completely liberated. Pumps, motors and IDS showed extremely minor wear.

Ended up giving my friend JB weld and $30 in new gears from Tuff Torq a shot. Worked great initially two nights ago when I test drove.

But this evening I found a small puddle of very clean 5w50 under the transmission. Found out while I had checked the clearance of my JB patch with the final gear prior to sealing, there is evidently more movement once physcially driving. This caused the final drive to chip away and crack my JB weld. When I resplit the case I could see toward the isnide edges I hadn't sanded enough down and left about 1/8" additional of material.

So now I am wondering if anyone has a bottom casing they don't need? I'll happily send a pre-paid shipping box.....In the meantime I might just try and fix my error. It's either that or the 'Honey Do List'....

Thanks
John
 
   / TuffTorq K46 Repair Guide with Pictures #472  
I am trying to rebuild my k46 and I ordered the parts from tuff torq. In the Filter IDS bag there is some kind of bracket. Can someone help me with this part. I cannot figure out where it would go. Thank you.

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   / TuffTorq K46 Repair Guide with Pictures #473  
It attaches to the bottom or side of something...... the pump block or motor block....using existing bolts....I have seen it shown in parts diagrams within this post.....just look back on one of the 48 pages.
 
   / TuffTorq K46 Repair Guide with Pictures #474  
Thanks I found the placement by looking at the pdf of the parts diagram. See the picture below.

Picture credit to Lotsofgreengrass

tranny.jpg
 
   / TuffTorq K46 Repair Guide with Pictures #475  
OK.....make sure the gear shafts are in correct place....I screwed up mine when the cover went back together....I might have spun the axle shafts which causes the gears to climb out of position during bottom cover install.
 

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   / TuffTorq K46 Repair Guide with Pictures #476  
Thanks Joebob,

I have a 2007 LA 120 (JD) and had same transmission slippage when hot (15 min.)! Started with less than 100 hours and tore apart at 160 hours. Found scoring as JOEBOB described and took a chance and got center case, motor cylinder, and pump cylinder mating surfaces milled down approx. 3 mil. to remove scoring. COST $32.5 Pre-loaded cylinders with Mobil 1 15w-50 reassembled, filled with 15w-50, installed tranny, performed tufftorq air purging procedure, removed tranny to check fluid level (had to add some), reinstalled tranny, crossed my fingers and; voila, ran like she was brand new! One thing to note is that it's February and only ran for 5 minutes but had a lot of jump when accelerating from a dead stop and did not notice the whine when going up steep hill. THE TRUE TEST WILL BE THIS SUMMER WHEN TEMP'S ARE HOT AND 1 HOUR RUN TIME. I'll do my best to update this summer. Thanks again Joebob and LotsofGreenGrass and others for all the posts! Never tore a tranny apart before but found it relatively simple with all the pictures, diagrams, and posts!

THANKS, SHANE
LANCASTER PA.
K46 fix
I have a John Deere L110 w/ 53 hrs., & a bad transaxel.Tried heaver oil, no joy. Looking at the surfaces of the block, & motor & clutch cylinders, I noticed very slight scoring between ports. This was the cause of the failure. I took the parts to a machine shop,& they surface ground the parts for $25! Cleaned everything in mineral spirits, including the filter which came out clean & white, blew everything out, reassembled, added 2 quarts & a cup of 10w30, & bingo a new transaxel!!! It seems a lot of these may have the same prob.Don't waste your money on unnecessary parts for 2 or 3 hundered bucks. A few things to watch on reassembly, you need the drawing from Tuff Torq.

1 Make sure freewheel rod stud inside case clears small pin (#25). When free wheel rod is pulled out, it pushes on pin which pushes on washer (#39), which in turn pushes motor cylinder, breaking seal betw.cyl. & block.

2 Make sure washer (#39) dos'nt stand proud of block surface after machining.

3 Make sure notch in axel pin(#64) corresponds w/notch in bottom case.

4 Note orientation of motor housing(#36).If you get it backwards, pedal operation will be reversed.

1
 
   / TuffTorq K46 Repair Guide with Pictures
  • Thread Starter
#477  
Could have it patched with a braze or weld possibly.
 
   / TuffTorq K46 Repair Guide with Pictures
  • Thread Starter
#478  
To all. I apologize if you have left a message for me and I have not replied. Apparently, I am not getting message notifications.
 
   / TuffTorq K46 Repair Guide with Pictures #479  
LotsofGreenGrass,
I would like to THANK YOU for your writeup with the EXCELLENT pictures.I followed your writeup and repaired my K46 Trans axle,and it is working fine.Without people like you and this great forum,we would be paying alot for these type of repairs.Would also like to thank the people at Tuff Torq [Derrick Dolain] for all there HELP they were GREAT.
THANKS AGAIN,Lotsofgreengrass
Ed
 
   / TuffTorq K46 Repair Guide with Pictures #480  
How much oil roughly does the K46V hold?
 
 
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