RBLapham
Silver Member
A little over 2 quarts
TuffTorq K46 Repair Guide with Pictures
- Thread starter LotsofGreenGrass
- Start date
olliesL110
New member
Great thread and much appreciated.
Just had my neighbour call in, his John Deere L110 Automatic just went bang in the rear.
What he said happened, is that when he started it it didn't sound right, there was a strange howling noise coming from the rear and when he drove it further he heard a bang from the rear and then the mower would not move.
The motor runs fine so it is not from there
After following the instructions from this thread, I got the Transmission out and on the bench to pull apart.
Well it has got me stumped.
ps: It has 360hrs on the meter - K46V
Opened the transmission up, and pulled every thing out and checked it and can't find a thing wrong with it, no broken bits - no siezed bits & only a few light shavings on the magnet, oil looked fine.
Remembering that there was a big bang and then it just stopped, it wouldn't go forward or reverse but the motor was running normally.
Just to be sure I went and started the motor to make sure the drive & cutter pulleys were working/spinning and they were fine.
When you hear a bang you expect to find broken bits but there is nothing and nothing to suggest that it may have jumped a cog or similar.
So is it possible that nothing broke but the cylinder block pump or the cylinder block motor have just given up the ghost and the bang was a last gasp.
Very confused
Rich
Just had my neighbour call in, his John Deere L110 Automatic just went bang in the rear.
What he said happened, is that when he started it it didn't sound right, there was a strange howling noise coming from the rear and when he drove it further he heard a bang from the rear and then the mower would not move.
The motor runs fine so it is not from there
After following the instructions from this thread, I got the Transmission out and on the bench to pull apart.
Well it has got me stumped.
ps: It has 360hrs on the meter - K46V
Opened the transmission up, and pulled every thing out and checked it and can't find a thing wrong with it, no broken bits - no siezed bits & only a few light shavings on the magnet, oil looked fine.
Remembering that there was a big bang and then it just stopped, it wouldn't go forward or reverse but the motor was running normally.
Just to be sure I went and started the motor to make sure the drive & cutter pulleys were working/spinning and they were fine.
When you hear a bang you expect to find broken bits but there is nothing and nothing to suggest that it may have jumped a cog or similar.
So is it possible that nothing broke but the cylinder block pump or the cylinder block motor have just given up the ghost and the bang was a last gasp.
Very confused
Rich
Last edited:
RBLapham
Silver Member
Maybe a little late but did you try turning the K46 pulley to see if the axles moved before you took it all apart?
Did the shaft under the K46 pulley/fan look OK? several reported it stripped. Also check the keyway pins on the axle to wheels, may have broken one of them. I never took mine apart so hopefully someone else can give you a way to check the pumps.
Did the shaft under the K46 pulley/fan look OK? several reported it stripped. Also check the keyway pins on the axle to wheels, may have broken one of them. I never took mine apart so hopefully someone else can give you a way to check the pumps.
Molerj
Platinum Member
- Joined
- Jul 18, 2001
- Messages
- 610
- Location
- Eastern Ohio
- Tractor
- JD 955, 1978 Economy Power King, JD X500
Have youchecked the thrust bearing under the cylinder block pump? It may be cracked. Bearings are encased in nylon type housing.
olliesL110
New member
All of the above checked and all ok
olliesL110
New member
All good in that respect
olliesL110
New member
How do you know if you have enough fluid in both chambers??, I filled it up via the vent valve (the one with rubber cap on top of the plug), does it flow through to both chambers as I couldn't see any obvious flow channel - I did put 1.8L of 5w/50 syn oil.
The reason I ask is I have put it back together, (I also replaced both the small idler pullies and
the belt to be on the safe side)jacked it up und done the air purging, got the wheels to go forward & back
then lowered it and tried it out.
It goes forward ok for a little bit then very slowly, in reverse some times it works then the next time it won't
I done the air purge 3 or 4 times for the same results.
When it does go it makes a howling type sound when under pressure, so that is why I queried the oil bit as I am wondering
if there is enough in each chamber - I put exactly 1.8L of 5w50 syn oil.
Or is it a matter of continuing the air purging.
The reason I ask is I have put it back together, (I also replaced both the small idler pullies and
the belt to be on the safe side)jacked it up und done the air purging, got the wheels to go forward & back
then lowered it and tried it out.
It goes forward ok for a little bit then very slowly, in reverse some times it works then the next time it won't
I done the air purge 3 or 4 times for the same results.
When it does go it makes a howling type sound when under pressure, so that is why I queried the oil bit as I am wondering
if there is enough in each chamber - I put exactly 1.8L of 5w50 syn oil.
Or is it a matter of continuing the air purging.
RBLapham
Silver Member
A previous post - on the ground - had to run forward - reverse back and forth quickly for a bunch of times and then it started working great.
When I refilled mine I only used 2 Quarts and it is working just fine. I only drained and refilled with Syn 5-50. Yes there is a passage between the two sides. I used the flat plug and not the vent.
Since you are down under - you probably don't need to turn it over to drain:laughing:
When I refilled mine I only used 2 Quarts and it is working just fine. I only drained and refilled with Syn 5-50. Yes there is a passage between the two sides. I used the flat plug and not the vent.
Since you are down under - you probably don't need to turn it over to drain:laughing:
olliesL110
New member
Since you are down under - you probably don't need to turn it over to drain
Very Good, I like
All fixed 1.8L was not enough, I added an extra 200ml total = 2L and away she went, just like new again.
Regards
Rich
doxford jim
Veteran Member
- Joined
- Mar 29, 2007
- Messages
- 1,007
- Location
- British Columbia, Canada
- Tractor
- 1959 MF-65 sold, 2007 Jinma 554 diesel.
Hi Guys,
I have just read through this thread and found it to be very informative and interesting - great job by the original poster.
I have a JD D170 rider mower and am wondering what transmission I have - it is the hydrostatic. I can't look at my mower as it is in the shop at home and I am away from the house visiting friends some 100 miles away.
So, does anyone know what the hydrostatic transmission would be - my guess is the Tufftorque K66 ???
One other question that may be of interest. I live in a fairly cool climate and have not been using the mower at much more than 1/3 throttle when cutting ggrass. From this thread it appears this reduction in speed means reduction in air flow over the transmission housing. The reduced throttle position use is partly due to gas consumption (we pay $5.40 a US gallon or $6.00 plus for an imperial gallon) and partly due to ground roughness. I have a lot of grass to cut - usually takes around 4.5 hours including refuelling time. What is your opinion on this reduced throttle work ?
Thanks for any and all comments - I am learning a lot with this thread.
Jim
I have just read through this thread and found it to be very informative and interesting - great job by the original poster.
I have a JD D170 rider mower and am wondering what transmission I have - it is the hydrostatic. I can't look at my mower as it is in the shop at home and I am away from the house visiting friends some 100 miles away.
So, does anyone know what the hydrostatic transmission would be - my guess is the Tufftorque K66 ???
One other question that may be of interest. I live in a fairly cool climate and have not been using the mower at much more than 1/3 throttle when cutting ggrass. From this thread it appears this reduction in speed means reduction in air flow over the transmission housing. The reduced throttle position use is partly due to gas consumption (we pay $5.40 a US gallon or $6.00 plus for an imperial gallon) and partly due to ground roughness. I have a lot of grass to cut - usually takes around 4.5 hours including refuelling time. What is your opinion on this reduced throttle work ?
Thanks for any and all comments - I am learning a lot with this thread.
Jim