TuffTorq K46 Repair Guide with Pictures

   / TuffTorq K46 Repair Guide with Pictures
  • Thread Starter
#72  
Yes, the K66 is a good transmission. The issue with the K66 is the cost on the unit itself and the required wheel and tire upgrade.
 
   / TuffTorq K46 Repair Guide with Pictures #73  
All I can say is Thank you, thank you, thank you. Your post was great and it worked really good. I did up grade the center section that was another 150. dollars. but the engine works good so i figured what the heck. when i first started I was concerned pulling of the tranny would be hard, but 6 bolts later and talking off the linkage and drive belt and it dropped down. I did find using a long screwdriver on the idler pully and forcing it over worked really good to reinstall the drive belt. Tranny was so easy to pull, I think every 50 hours or so, I'm gonna pull it turn it up side down and drain fuid and add fresh.

Hopfully it will last a long time. Thanks again:)
 
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   / TuffTorq K46 Repair Guide with Pictures
  • Thread Starter
#74  
All I can say is Thank you, thank you, thank you. Your post was great and it worked really good. I did up grade the center section that was another 150. dollars. but the engine works good so i figured what the heck. when i first started I was concerned pulling of the tranny would be hard, but 6 bolts later and talking off the linkage and drive belt and it dropped down. I did find using a long screwdriver on the idler pully and forcing it over worked really good to reinstall the drive belt. Tranny was so easy to pull, I think every 50 hours or so, I'm gonna pull it turn it up side down and drain fuid and add fresh.

Hopfully it will last a long time. Thanks again:)

You're welcome! Nothing like the smell of fresh cut grass after you just saved some big cash!
 
   / TuffTorq K46 Repair Guide with Pictures #75  
Hi Lightningrod,
I've got a Scotts L2048 and while I've got my mower deck off for spindle repairs, I'm attempting to change/renew the tranny drive belt.

I see in post# 14 you did just that. I'm having a real hard time getting the idlers off!? What did you use to pull them? Or did you? I don't see how the belt can be removed without removing the idlers? Is there something I'm missing here?

I have what's called a "large gear puller" (from an auto parts store) but it just seems to bend the sheaves as I apply pressure; and the front idler is fitted so close to the bracket that there really seems to be no room to get the puller over it? Can you tell me just how you got those two idlers off? One is a flat and 1 is a "v".

I'm not a mechanical dummy but I sure can't seem to figure this out. Any assistance greatly appreciated. Thanks, Greg
 
   / TuffTorq K46 Repair Guide with Pictures
  • Thread Starter
#76  
Hi Lightningrod,
I've got a Scotts L2048 and while I've got my mower deck off for spindle repairs, I'm attempting to change/renew the tranny drive belt.

I see in post# 14 you did just that. I'm having a real hard time getting the idlers off!? What did you use to pull them? Or did you? I don't see how the belt can be removed without removing the idlers? Is there something I'm missing here?

I have what's called a "large gear puller" (from an auto parts store) but it just seems to bend the sheaves as I apply pressure; and the front idler is fitted so close to the bracket that there really seems to be no room to get the puller over it? Can you tell me just how you got those two idlers off? One is a flat and 1 is a "v".

I'm not a mechanical dummy but I sure can't seem to figure this out. Any assistance greatly appreciated. Thanks, Greg

I didn't have to remove them. I just unbolted the transmission.
 
   / TuffTorq K46 Repair Guide with Pictures #77  
Hi LOGG,
Yes, I know you did the tranny update; and posted a superb line-by-line how-to!! Thanks for that GREAT info!! I have read it several times and will follow all the advice/steps whenever I get to the stage that I need to rebuild mine. However......

I am currently rebuilding/reinforcing my deck and replacing two spindles.
I noticed that my drive belt has numerous cracks in it. While it's not yet broken, I believe that I might as well change out the belt now before getting stranded while out in the field. I have read about several other members having over 300 hours on their machines over the course of many years ownership. Well.....

Come on now fellow TBNrs...has no one yet replaced the main drive belt??? I just know that someone has done this before. I'd suspect that while doing a tranny rebuild -- one would think "Wow, this would be an excellent time to refresh the drive belt also." I wouldn't be asking for assistance if'n I could figure out a way to get the belt free from the idlers without pulling idlers off. But, I just can't seem to see how the belt will fit between the metal flanges that help hold it in place without causing damage to the expensive belt itself. And, I'm currently stuck on how to get those pesky idlers off. Any grand ideas out there?? How about any ideas at all??
Thanks fer listening... Greg
 
   / TuffTorq K46 Repair Guide with Pictures
  • Thread Starter
#78  
Hi LOGG,
Yes, I know you did the tranny update; and posted a superb line-by-line how-to!! Thanks for that GREAT info!! I have read it several times and will follow all the advice/steps whenever I get to the stage that I need to rebuild mine. However......

I am currently rebuilding/reinforcing my deck and replacing two spindles.
I noticed that my drive belt has numerous cracks in it. While it's not yet broken, I believe that I might as well change out the belt now before getting stranded while out in the field. I have read about several other members having over 300 hours on their machines over the course of many years ownership. Well.....

Come on now fellow TBNrs...has no one yet replaced the main drive belt??? I just know that someone has done this before. I'd suspect that while doing a tranny rebuild -- one would think "Wow, this would be an excellent time to refresh the drive belt also." I wouldn't be asking for assistance if'n I could figure out a way to get the belt free from the idlers without pulling idlers off. But, I just can't seem to see how the belt will fit between the metal flanges that help hold it in place without causing damage to the expensive belt itself. And, I'm currently stuck on how to get those pesky idlers off. Any grand ideas out there?? How about any ideas at all??
Thanks fer listening... Greg

I think JD has a service bulletin on belt changes. Try the JD site. I have not had to change the belt.
 
   / TuffTorq K46 Repair Guide with Pictures #79  
Hi Logg....An update...
My new transmission drive belt and some other parts arrived and I just now completed the drive belt change. The JD service bulletin gave some good info but was lacking in what I was asking about. Oh well, I plunged ahead anyhow.

I couldn't figure out a suitable means to remove the idler pulleys; so I just used a cresent wrench and bent (slightly) the metal protusions that guide the belt and keep it within the realm of the idler pulleys. After the new belt was on, I just bent the guides backs a tad. All seems well. I haven't yet run/moved machine under it's own power but I'm sure it'll go as should.

I know bending metal is not the proper answer but it's what I thought was the only alternative to otherwise poking/prodding with a screwdriver or something to get the new belt up into the pulleys. Greg
 
   / TuffTorq K46 Repair Guide with Pictures
  • Thread Starter
#80  
Hi Logg....An update...
My new transmission drive belt and some other parts arrived and I just now completed the drive belt change. The JD service bulletin gave some good info but was lacking in what I was asking about. Oh well, I plunged ahead anyhow.

I couldn't figure out a suitable means to remove the idler pulleys; so I just used a cresent wrench and bent (slightly) the metal protusions that guide the belt and keep it within the realm of the idler pulleys. After the new belt was on, I just bent the guides backs a tad. All seems well. I haven't yet run/moved machine under it's own power but I'm sure it'll go as should.

I know bending metal is not the proper answer but it's what I thought was the only alternative to otherwise poking/prodding with a screwdriver or something to get the new belt up into the pulleys. Greg

Hey, if you are satisfied, and its safe, and you saved a buck, who cares? lol
 
 
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