Kyle_in_Tex
Super Star Member
not sure. may have to hybrid some parts off of your old one.
TuffTorq K46 Repair Guide with Pictures
- Thread starter LotsofGreenGrass
- Start date
not sure. may have to hybrid some parts off of your old one.
essexcoupe
New member
Have emailed them and hoping they will respond to me
Lucky Iam a NZHRA member and we have a shipping facility out of CA as I am sure they wont ship to me here in NZ
but you never know
Lucky Iam a NZHRA member and we have a shipping facility out of CA as I am sure they wont ship to me here in NZ
but you never know
Kyle_in_Tex
Super Star Member
sounds like a plan
gtunney
Member
- Joined
- Apr 23, 2011
- Messages
- 41
- Location
- Western Mass, USA
- Tractor
- JD X585, New Holland TC29D (Dad owns tractor, I paid for its backhoe)
Welcome to the clan, Essex.
essexcoupe
New member
Thanks for the welcome,
checked out thread 791 and it wont fit the LT166
so will have to keep looking
checked out thread 791 and it wont fit the LT166
so will have to keep looking
essexcoupe
New member
Would this be all the parts I would need to do a rebuild
and fit the k51b tuff torq
TUFF TORQ 7A646084460 Pump Motor 168T2025090 168T2025080 Parts Rebuild Kit K46
thanks
and fit the k51b tuff torq
TUFF TORQ 7A646084460 Pump Motor 168T2025090 168T2025080 Parts Rebuild Kit K46
thanks
Kyle_in_Tex
Super Star Member
There is a guy named Eric at tuff torq who can sell you parts and answer questions. I don't know if he has an email address or not.
GammaFlat
New member
I've read the entire thread. Thanks a million to all who have contributed here. I have learned so much. I feel so much more comfortable owning the "big box" lawn tractor now that I understand it better. I too had heard that the rear ends fail and were not serviceable.
I summarized the issue with an engineer who had a lot of experience with the "pump type" used in the K46. His experience comes from work in oil fields. He also has a long history of high performance engine rebuilding, Process Control Equipment Design, etc. His resume is long. I'm sure he's engineered many things that directly impact your life every day.
He had three recommendations for me if I was going to rebuild: 1) Make the surfaces as smooth and flat as possible/practical, 2) Use Mobil 1 15w50 (or rough equivalent synthetic 3) add Zinc to the oil. He wasn't worried about going down to a "5W" oil for the sake of cold conditions if I was using zinc. I am no longer concerned about going "too smooth" on the surfaces mentioned previously after my engineer friend said, "you can't go too smooth". Apparently the zinc takes care of the "lubricant clinging to important parts" issue. It (zinc) also wants to combine with moisture, then drop to the bottom of vessel. These are both good things.
The plan: Change the fluid, change or clean filters/magnets, use 15w50, add 1 or 2 ounces of zinc. Depending on how the fluid and parts look, I may accelerate the rebuild schedule (Plan B)... I'll try to take a "minimalist" approach at first. I ordered zinc additive but I'd like to research it more before make a recommendation. Generally speaking, car engines with a flat tappet arrangement need zinc to lubricate the metal to metal contact surfaces. In theory, newer engines don't really have metal to metal contact and the zinc can damage the catalytic converter... so it's been removed from most motor oils per EPA rules.
Plan B: Do everything in the original plan and smooth the crap out of the motor and pump. If needed, replace broken parts or parts with excessive clearances.
I have a JD L110 with 140 hours purchased in 2001-ish. It currently works fine but has the distinct "fluid bypass" noise... A howl or low whine sound that I don't think it had earlier in its life. It does lawns in the summer and snow blowing in the winter. I had a plow on the front for the first few years (I found the plow a waste of time - I much prefer the Lightning 2 stage snow blower). I end up doing a large part of my neighborhood which takes longer than if I had a small blower and just did my own driveway and sidewalk (Am I the only silly person doing this?!).
I'll get back on here to share my experiences as I get through the maintenance of my K46.
Again, thank you to all contributors.
I summarized the issue with an engineer who had a lot of experience with the "pump type" used in the K46. His experience comes from work in oil fields. He also has a long history of high performance engine rebuilding, Process Control Equipment Design, etc. His resume is long. I'm sure he's engineered many things that directly impact your life every day.
He had three recommendations for me if I was going to rebuild: 1) Make the surfaces as smooth and flat as possible/practical, 2) Use Mobil 1 15w50 (or rough equivalent synthetic 3) add Zinc to the oil. He wasn't worried about going down to a "5W" oil for the sake of cold conditions if I was using zinc. I am no longer concerned about going "too smooth" on the surfaces mentioned previously after my engineer friend said, "you can't go too smooth". Apparently the zinc takes care of the "lubricant clinging to important parts" issue. It (zinc) also wants to combine with moisture, then drop to the bottom of vessel. These are both good things.
The plan: Change the fluid, change or clean filters/magnets, use 15w50, add 1 or 2 ounces of zinc. Depending on how the fluid and parts look, I may accelerate the rebuild schedule (Plan B)... I'll try to take a "minimalist" approach at first. I ordered zinc additive but I'd like to research it more before make a recommendation. Generally speaking, car engines with a flat tappet arrangement need zinc to lubricate the metal to metal contact surfaces. In theory, newer engines don't really have metal to metal contact and the zinc can damage the catalytic converter... so it's been removed from most motor oils per EPA rules.
Plan B: Do everything in the original plan and smooth the crap out of the motor and pump. If needed, replace broken parts or parts with excessive clearances.
I have a JD L110 with 140 hours purchased in 2001-ish. It currently works fine but has the distinct "fluid bypass" noise... A howl or low whine sound that I don't think it had earlier in its life. It does lawns in the summer and snow blowing in the winter. I had a plow on the front for the first few years (I found the plow a waste of time - I much prefer the Lightning 2 stage snow blower). I end up doing a large part of my neighborhood which takes longer than if I had a small blower and just did my own driveway and sidewalk (Am I the only silly person doing this?!).
I'll get back on here to share my experiences as I get through the maintenance of my K46.
Again, thank you to all contributors.
Last edited:
Tbone14
New member
Guys - great thread - it helped me pull my k46 apart and get it cleaned/reassembled and refilled.
Now the bypass shaft is loose vertically (it can pop off of the lever) and it doesn't feel like it is engaged to anything. What did I do wrong? Do I have to pull this thing apart again? Thanks in advance
Now the bypass shaft is loose vertically (it can pop off of the lever) and it doesn't feel like it is engaged to anything. What did I do wrong? Do I have to pull this thing apart again? Thanks in advance
Tbone14
New member
Guys - great thread - it helped me pull my k46 apart and get it cleaned/reassembled and refilled.
Now the bypass shaft is loose vertically (it can pop off of the lever) and it doesn't feel like it is engaged to anything. What did I do wrong? Do I have to pull this thing apart again? Thanks in advance
Now the bypass shaft is loose vertically (it can pop off of the lever) and it doesn't feel like it is engaged to anything. What did I do wrong? Do I have to pull this thing apart again? Thanks in advance