TuffTorq K46 Repair Guide with Pictures

[diggler1971]

So, I've read all these posts and watched a couple videos before tearing into my son's L110 mower transaxle. What I'm trying first is thorough internal cleanup and machining (sanding) the pump and motor and there corresponding mating surfaces on the center case. That all went well and the parts all smoothed out nicely. Although it took a good bit of sanding with 400 grit sandpaper and cutting fluid. I have it back together on the bench and I'm waiting for a new filter and filler cap. My question regards the oil to put in the unit. I was going to put mobil 1 5w-50, but I can't find it locally. In fact, I can't find anywhere local that has any brand of synthetic 5w-50. I can, however, get mobil 1 15w-50 locally. I'm thinking that the difference is negligible from 5w to 15w, as it's at the cold viscosity end of the oils capability and he won't use this mower in cold weather anyway. Am I wrong on this, or is the 15w-50 "close enough"?

 

[RBLapham]

I was going to put mobil 1 5w-50, but I can't find it locally. In fact, I can't find anywhere local that has any brand of synthetic 5w-50. I can, however, get mobil 1 15w-50 locally. I'm thinking that the difference is negligible from 5w to 15w, as it's at the cold viscosity end of the oils capability and he won't use this mower in cold weather anyway. Am I wrong on this, or is the 15w-50 "close enough"?

In my local "Reiley's" auto parts store I couldn't find it either - there must be 50 brands and 100 different viscosity ratings on one wall Had to ask and sure enough they had some 5-50. The biggest requirement is "Full Synthetic" - the viscosity not so much. Synthetic will hold up much better taking the heat. Using the 15-50 should be fine as long as you do not live in a real cold climate.

 

[DaddyJoe]

I just complete the repair of my L130 transmission over the weekend. I cannot thank the originator of this thread, in addition to the multiple YouTube videos, that provided me with the confidence to attempt, and complete this repair! It was really quite easy and made my 12 year old tractor feel like new!

I purchased the repair kit which included the pump, motor, and center case, plus three quarts of Tuff Torq synthetic oil for $400. Well worth it! Not to mention I also have the personal satisfaction of completing the rebuild.

Thank you again!

 

[John Deere L130 Derek]

So, after three weeks on the ship I return home to give this another go. Since I was last on the manufacturer sent me another rebuild kit which I have installed. Still no go. I just tried to flip the wedge upside down - just for the **** of it - and got nowhere. I also tried going back to the original 10W-30 oil it came with, hoping that it was a viscosity issue and still no better.
This lawn tractor will be visiting the scrap bin quick if I don't get it cutting in the next couple days.

 

[DaddyJoe]

Check this guys video. He did an excellent job and I used it for reference before and during my rebuild. Hope this helps.

Google: Part 4 John Deere L Series Transmission Rebuild / Repair Differential and Motor

There are also parts 1, 2, and 3, however since you're already removed your transmission numerous times they would be worthless to you.

I am wondering if the issue has something to do with the disengage mechanism being permanently disengaged?

 

[Rob Willis]

I just ordered some parts from Tuff Torq to repair my 2002 JD L110 (K46V-0144099).

What is the silver bracket piece?

Should I replace my plungers with the different piece (plunger->filter->spring) or keep the ones that were in it (plunger->spring->bb ball)?
I didn't know if the one was a newer improved version? I have the ball IDS, they sent filter IDS parts.

Thanks!!!

 

[wactbn]

It may be too late, but this is where the bracket goes:


I've tried both IDS designs, but didn't notice any difference between them.

 

[amberjack1234]

What a fantastic job. Thank you soooooo very much.

 

[Tractornewb]

I just changed my oil with 5-50 Mobil 1 after 50 hours. Had the dealer do it. He complained that these units were not designed to be serviced, but I had them do it anyway. They had to order a new plug for the transmission. They said they could not put in a drain plug into it. For my John Deere D140 mower, it ran 2.5 hours of labor.

It wasn't too bad. I had them change the drive belt on it too and got their spring special stuff done too. Now the slight whine on the transmission went away, and it should be good for a loooooong time. It also seems more responsive to pedal pressure, but it could be the old belt was a little loose.

 

[jasper502]

I have a JD D170 Lawn Tractor. From what I can tell it has a K46 transaxle and my case it's leaking from the left axle.

Reading this thread would lead me to believe that I can just do a seal replacement:

https://www.tufftorqservices.com/in...epair/K46_T40_TLT200Axle_Seal_REPLACEMENT.pdf

vs paying the $1500 my local repair shop wants for a brand new transmission.

Can anyone confirm if I am on the right track here. I figure I have nothing to lose to try other than my time and what should be small cost for the parts.