Trailer and implement rust

[SpotsyMatt]

So, life's busy - way too busy - and I'm trying to catch up with all the places around my farm that I've neglected for far too long. One of the problems that some of my equipment has is rust. The trailer met has some surface rust on it, particularly on the ramps and the chains that secure the ramps. Similarly, the bucket on my tractor and the top of my finish mower has a few rust spots.

Rust removal on the inside of the bucket is easy enough - typically shoveling up some gravel will clean that up pretty well, but the other parts of it aren't as easy.

I was considering taking a wire brush or a wire brush drill attachment to the rusty areas to remove any lose stuff and then using a product someone mentioned from Gempler's - Rust Converter Frequently Asked Questions | Gempler's - to convert the rust and then repaint the to a color that matches the existing paint - at least for the finish mower.

Has anyone used this before? I'm looking at their site's FAQ about the product but was looking for some independent info on it. Or if you've got a different idea about dealing with the rust, I'd really like to hear it.

Thanks much!

Matt

 

[B7510HSD]

So, life's busy - way too busy - and I'm trying to catch up with all the places around my farm that I've neglected for far too long. One of the problems that some of my equipment has is rust. The trailer met has some surface rust on it, particularly on the ramps and the chains that secure the ramps. Similarly, the bucket on my tractor and the top of my finish mower has a few rust spots.

Rust removal on the inside of the bucket is easy enough - typically shoveling up some gravel will clean that up pretty well, but the other parts of it aren't as easy.

I was considering taking a wire brush or a wire brush drill attachment to the rusty areas to remove any lose stuff and then using a product someone mentioned from Gempler's - Rust Converter Frequently Asked Questions | Gempler's - to convert the rust and then repaint the to a color that matches the existing paint - at least for the finish mower.

Has anyone used this before? I'm looking at their site's FAQ about the product but was looking for some independent info on it. Or if you've got a different idea about dealing with the rust, I'd really like to hear it.

Thanks much!

Matt

We use Rustmort from napa in our shop with good results !!

 

[Diamondpilot]

Once you get rust it will be a issue for long to come. What I do is when it gets bad I have it sandblasted then Rhino lined. It will last forever then.

Chris

 

[Egon]

Do a Goggle on Rust prevention. Lots of articles and information.

Phosphoric acid can be used on the rust to handle it. Dairy milk cleaning line products may have phosphoric acid in them. They are probably cheaper than many other products.

I used some on a very rusty trailer last year. Everything still looks good.

 

[Egon]

Rust removal
Phosphoric acid may be used as a "rust converter", by direct application to rusted iron, steel tools, or surfaces. The phosphoric acid converts reddish-brown iron(III) oxide (rust) to black ferric phosphate, FePO4.
"Rust converter" is sometimes a greenish liquid suitable for dipping (in the same sort of acid bath as is used for pickling metal), but it is more often formulated as a gel, commonly called naval jelly. It is sometimes sold under other names, such as "rust remover" or "rust killer". As a thick gel, it may be applied to sloping, vertical, or even overhead surfaces.
After treatment, the black ferric-phosphate coating can be scrubbed off, leaving a fresh metal surface. Multiple applications of phosphoric acid may be required to remove all rust. The black phosphate coating can also be left in place, where it will provide moderate further corrosion resistance. (Such protection is also provided by the superficially similar Parkerizing and blued electrochemical conversion coating processes.)

If you do a little searching on the internet you will find lots more information.:thumbsup:

picture of the trailer I used it on before cleaning off the rust with a needle scaler, chipping hamer and wire brush. I had more but a computer program absconded with them and will not let me retreive them.:confused2:

 

[ToadHill]

I use POR 15, it chemically converts the rust to something else and seals the area from exposure. I've used it on the frame of sports cars I've rebuilt for many years with great success.

 

[pat32rf]

I've found that the rust converters work on thin surface rust, where they can penerate to the base metal. If its the thick rust from years of storage, then they will form a coating, but don't get all the way down to base. In which case the result can chip off if hit with a stone etc. Generally, if a wire brush will take it off (versus a chipping hammer) then you don't really need to remove it, just convert it.....then paint over. It won't be a smooth surface though.

 

[greasemonkeyok]

I concur with Pat32rf. The rust converters with a latex-type paint combination are not the best choice in my experience. I prefer using just the chemical converter first, but haven't located a good supplier recently.

 

[SpotsyMatt]

I had to run over to Tractor Supply this morning to get West Nile shots for the horses and while I was there I saw they had something called "Rust Kutter" - a clear liquid in a spray bottle. Tried a little of it on a rusty part of the trailer and can see that it converted some of the rust to black. Not sure how well the stuff is going to work but I bought a small container to try.