Ford 1910 4x4, cracked FEL mount.

[shadawick]

Hi Folks,
New here and need some insight into your experience.
I have a Ford 1910 4x4 with Woods FEL. Recently while plowing out potatoes, I was checking everything out, fluids, greasing, etc when I noticed a "crack," where the right FEL loader mount bolts onto the tractor housing. The crack opens and closes as the loader is moved but the crack does not completely encircle the built up boss area where the bolts thread. It is my guess the crack extends into the "bell housing," area as no fluids leak. I guess it is in the area where the clutch is. I don't know when the crack occurred nor remember any recent incident where I "abused or overloaded," the loader. I am lost without this great little tractor and need a realistic solution to the problem. Bottom line can a weld work and be strong enough to stand up to the FEL which is rated at 1600lb lift? I know that is hard to answer without pics, which I will try and get to post soon. I know nothing about welding or repairs of this type, but am in a very serious cash short position (catastrophic illness with wife). I have to be very careful about throwing good money after bad, but also need to make sure the route I take fixes the problem to where using the loader is no problem. I thank everyone in advance for their kind consideration and suggestion!
Sincerely,
Jim aka "Shadawick"

[Hooked_on_HP]

First I would remove the mount and see how far the crack goes. If just the raised area is cracked you might be able to get away with a little longer bolt.If the bellhousing is cracked there isn't a good way to repair it. This usually happens from the mounting bolts being loose.
Bill

[JC-jetro]

Cracked cast bell housing welding will be a difficult task at best and it will never be the same as original. need to investigate the extent of crack. Bell housing replacement will be pricey and difficult. I would entertain possibility of making some type of under mount support to tie the lefty and right loader mount to some bottom support to be extended to rear axle. need to transfer the load to the cracked area to some place else. do you have the right and left loader mount tied together under the engine block?

JC,

[Ford tractor]

Condolences.

There is no cheap way to repair that damage. You should start looking for a used transmission to replace the damaged one.

[shadawick]

Update.
I took my camera down to get pics to post but Murphy's law came into effect, "batteries need charging," so nothing but cell phone pics yet.

I did however go to the local Ford dealer and met with the service manager and showed him the cell phone pics. He called the guy's over (including a couple of old hands with over 20years Ford service each) The general consensus was:

First try welding, by an "Experienced man who knows what he is doing and has worked machinery before." I also mentioned that I had heard to "drill a hole in each end of the crack," to help stop progress.

Second option, locate a "used or new bellhousing," and replace.

I have decided to do the following:
Get the bellhousing welded and limit heavy loads with loader, while locating a replacement bellhousing. If successful, continue to use the repaired housing until something "let's go," and keep the replacement housing in reserve, and only then replace it. All the above provided a replacement whether used or new can be found (a big IF!)

I also go to looking closely at the Wood's loader mounting system. Both the left and right front mounts connect with a big steel yoke underneath as well as have a heavy wide steel mount that extends from the front, back to at least 4 bolts that mount to the underside of the transmission and rear end. Overall a really substantial mount, which all the more makes me question, "What in the world did I do that cracked the right front mount in the first place?"

What do you guys think? I really do appreciate your input.

[JC-jetro]

Update.

Get the bellhousing welded and limit heavy loads with loader, while locating a replacement bellhousing. If successful, continue to use the repaired housing until something "let's go," and keep the replacement housing in reserve, and only then replace it. All the above provided a replacement whether used or new can be found (a big IF!)

I also go to looking closely at the Wood's loader mounting system. Both the left and right front mounts connect with a big steel yoke underneath as well as have a heavy wide steel mount that extends from the front, back to at least 4 bolts that mount to the underside of the transmission and rear end. Overall a really substantial mount, which all the more makes me question, "What in the world did I do that cracked the right front mount in the first place?"

What do you guys think? I really do appreciate your input.

Sounds pretty logical, I look at to see if I can put any gusset plate in some form or fashion to remove the stress from the cracked area. I'd look to see if there is any way part of I beam, square tubing or whatever I have available to make a " splint" to beef up and keep the housing held together. I might consider bolt or weld the splint to the tractor or loader mount somehow. Of course I'll throw the aesthetics out of the window

JC,

[MrChris]

I know my tractor manual recommends checking the loader frame bolts for proper torque every 25 hours of use. There is even a proper torque sequence. Loose bolts to the block mounts can cause cracks.

[jimmysisson]

I second Mr Chris. You probably did already, but all the mounting bolts should be checked for proper torque. Sounds like some were maybe loose, and loads were concentrated on the bell housing ones? Woods may have torque specs, or you can find them far down in this long bolt article I cribbed from the New Holland forum. Which is probably a good alternate place to post Ford problems. Good luck though, it's a tough position you're in.
Jim

Pirate4x4.Com - Extreme Four Wheel Drive

[shadawick]

I second Mr Chris. You probably did already, but all the mounting bolts should be checked for proper torque. Sounds like some were maybe loose, and loads were concentrated on the bell housing ones? Woods may have torque specs, or you can find them far down in this long bolt article I cribbed from the New Holland forum. Which is probably a good alternate place to post Ford problems. Good luck though, it's a tough position you're in.
Jim

Pirate4x4.Com - Extreme Four Wheel Drive

Wow, that is a great article with a lot of information! Too bad you can't copy or download it, I just entered it as one of my favorites under in my tractor and equipment folder. I appreciate all the advice and suggestions.