Removing dry cylinder liners

   / Removing dry cylinder liners #11  
I agree with the welding. It works like a charm.

When we rebuilt the 8n motor it had .040 sleeves. So they were really thin. I'd actuall call it more like dragging the rod across the liner as opposed to welding. Just a few seconds to make the full pass across the 6" or so liner
 
   / Removing dry cylinder liners
  • Thread Starter
#12  
Looks like I'll get them out then. Just thought, will the new liners be the same outside bore as the factory fitted ones? Is anywhere I could find out what size Ford bored them out to to fit the factory liners? Could be a problem if they were bored out bigger than the replacements. Bruce
 
   / Removing dry cylinder liners #13  
The block will be stock size . The only one I ever had trouble with was one that got cracked when a piston broke . It was welded up and bored back out but they went too far , the liner was a loose fit . They Chromed the outside of the liner , linished it on a lathe and then fitted it to the block .

Also when fitting liners it is best to have them in an Esky of dry ice . Be careful only to handle them with your finger tips on the bottom lip if you can get your hand inside them , or with your finger nails under the top lip if they have one . If you grab them like a WineO handles a bottle , you will get hot spots from your fingers which can grab the block and jamb it halfway .

Some people use a freezer to shrink them but a freezer is never close enough to the engine and they will be expanding by the second while you are getting there .
 
   / Removing dry cylinder liners #14  
ford motors post 1965 did not have sleeves they were cast iron bore blocks if it has sleeves they where put in at a machine shop they where not like the ford tractor pre 1965 which had drive sleeves i have cut the sleeves out with a torch but be carefull and dont cut into the block but the right way to get them out is to pull the motor and have them bored out but make sure when u go back together with the motor u have finished sleves or u will have to pull the motor and have them bored do ask how i know so dont do what it did if it has sleeves the smart thing to do is pull the motor out to start with
 
   / Removing dry cylinder liners #15  
A dry cylinder liner has a flange at the outer circumference of the upper part of a liner barrel, and also has a grind relief groove formed below the flange at the outer circumferential surface of the liner barrel.
 
   / Removing dry cylinder liners #16  
You could run a bead or two around the liner and this will shrink them,but you allways get spatter where you don't want it.If you have a cutting torche ,
run a blue line around the liner in a spirle from bottom to top,and let it cool they will fall right out.I rebuild Cat components every day and havent welded
anything out in a long time,bearing cups,bushings all shink nicely this way and you get no spatter .When I say a blue line I mean hold the flame long enouf and move it around to make a blue line .If any of you out there hasn't tried this methed yet you will never go back to welding,give it a try.
 
   / Removing dry cylinder liners
  • Thread Starter
#17  
ford motors post 1965 did not have sleeves they were cast iron bore blocks if it has sleeves they where put in at a machine shop they where not like the ford tractor pre 1965 which had drive sleeves i have cut the sleeves out with a torch but be carefull and dont cut into the block but the right way to get them out is to pull the motor and have them bored out but make sure when u go back together with the motor u have finished sleves or u will have to pull the motor and have them bored do ask how i know so dont do what it did if it has sleeves the smart thing to do is pull the motor out to start with

The 4600 originally had a bore of 4.4", according to the manual some were factory fitted with sleeves because of the porous block problem that Ford had. This brought the bore down to 4.2", which is what I have. I'm not sure if these sleeves were factory fitted or a later addition. I hope Ford (if they are Ford fitted) used standard wall thickness liners and not some extra thick walled ones. The suppliers of the new liners (Agriline) say they are semi-finished and only need honing to finish to take the pistons as supplied.
 
   / Removing dry cylinder liners #18  
The 4600 originally had a bore of 4.4", according to the manual some were factory fitted with sleeves because of the porous block problem that Ford had. This brought the bore down to 4.2", which is what I have. I'm not sure if these sleeves were factory fitted or a later addition. I hope Ford (if they are Ford fitted) used standard wall thickness liners and not some extra thick walled ones. The suppliers of the new liners (Agriline) say they are semi-finished and only need honing to finish to take the pistons as supplied.

Proper installation of service sleeves in a parent bore block requires the block to be overbored (either in the factory or in the field). The finished product (in the case of a 201 cu. in. engine) will have a bore of 4.4" just like it was meant to have.
 
   / Removing dry cylinder liners #19  
Don't run a bead "around it." Run the bead from bottom to top and it will come right out.
 
   / Removing dry cylinder liners #20  
semi finished sleeves need to be bored i have been there and tried that
 
 
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