8n 1952 weak spark

[joeragg]

Help?I have a 1952 n8 ?till the 6 volts system
She does not want to start
Depending on here demeanor

I think it is a spark trouble?seems the spark is weak

If I put her on charge and then try to fire here up she in more cooperative and will start sometimes.
After she is up going she just purrs

How do I figure this out?..layman—´ terms please.

Oh I have changed the switch

 

[jonyyuma]

Change that Puppy over to 12 volts, You will need an alternator that has an internal regulator. 12 volt battery , and a resisitor for the coil.I did mine 20 years ago, and my starter still works great. If you want a real hot fast firing tractor, then spring for a pertronox distributor kit and coil, My tractor starts in 3 revolutions now.Yesterdays' tractors and many others sell the parts listed here. I adapted my alternator from a gm wreck. You will not regret junking the 6 volt...Jy.

 

[RickB]

You can cover up a bunch of sins with a 12V conversion, or replace the 60 year old wiring, failing key switch, corroded battery cables and it will probably get along just fine as a 6V machine.

 

[jonyyuma]

Yes, it all depends on how long you want to work on it each time .. I really ignored the iron carburator that rusts up, or if you leave gas too long, clabbors solid inside.My distributor was worn out, and needed points about every other few hours.We both did not mention the condensor, which helps the spark. Plus check the wiring directly to the distiributor, and the tiny rubber insulator that protects the wiring there.But< I still stick by my cure, to prevent hours of Tinkering each time you need it...Plus I turn the gas off and run it out each time..Jy.

You can cover up a bunch of sins with a 12V conversion, or replace the 60 year old wiring, failing key switch, corroded battery cables and it will probably get along just fine as a 6V machine.

 

[RickB]

Yes, it all depends on how long you want to work on it each time .. I really ignored the iron carburator that rusts up, or if you leave gas too long, clabbors solid inside.My distributor was worn out, and needed points about every other few hours.We both did not mention the condensor, which helps the spark. Plus check the wiring directly to the distiributor, and the tiny rubber insulator that protects the wiring there.But< I still stick by my cure, to prevent hours of Tinkering each time you need it...Plus I turn the gas off and run it out each time..Jy.

There's nothing wrong with a 12V conversion. But it won't cure carb problems, and if the primary ignition circuit wiring is junk, it still will be after the typical 12V conversion because few will actually rip out the old harness and toss it. And a main harness for any 1939-1965 Ford gasser is cheaper than an auto parts store Delco alternator.

 

[jinman]

Even with a 12V system, my old Ford Jubilee would often have condensation problems allowing the spark to jump to ground long before it made it's way up the wires to the plugs. If you have electricity nearby, a hair dryer inside the distributor could work wonders. Also, make sure the coil and distributor cap are very clean/dry inside and outside. Pull the plug wires and clean off the plug insulators too. Clean and dry really makes a difference on old 6V and even 12V systems.

When I was experiencing problems with my system, I would always check that I had power to the coil when the key was turned on. A voltmeter or test lamp can show that quickly. Next, I'd pull the wire from the coil off the distributor cap and remove the distributor cap. Then, while holding the coil wire end very close to ground, I'd open and close the points manually to create a spark from the end of the coil wire (if you aren't careful, you'll get a jolt too). Of course, the engine/rotor has to be turned so the points are closed to start with, but that's easy to do by tugging on the fan belt or using the starter motor. You can watch the points to see that they open and close as they ride on the distributor cam face. While they are open, you should be able to measure the 6 volts from the coil. If you don't get a spark jumping from the coil wire when you open the points, then they need attention/cleaning/adjusting. By doing this test, you can check out everything except the rotor and high voltage distributor cap functions. Normally the rotor and cap will work fine if dry and carefully seated in the proper position.

Since you say that your 8N runs great once it starts, I'd be that if you get everything clean and dry, you won't even have to do the "experiments" above.

 

[joeragg]

OK.... thank to everyone.....!!!!!

Hopefully ......with the advice

I can get her attention again and get her up and running ??

off to the garage I go

Many thanks to all

Joe

 

[jonyyuma]

Even with a 12V system, my old Ford Jubilee would often have condensation problems allowing the spark to jump to ground long before it made it's way up the wires to the plugs. If you have electricity nearby, a hair dryer inside the distributor could work wonders. Also, make sure the coil and distributor cap are very clean/dry inside and outside. Pull the plug wires and clean off the plug insulators too. Clean and dry really makes a difference on old 6V and even 12V systems.

When I was experiencing problems with my system, I would always check that I had power to the coil when the key was turned on. A voltmeter or test lamp can show that quickly. Next, I'd pull the wire from the coil off the distributor cap and remove the distributor cap. Then, while holding the coil wire end very close to ground, I'd open and close the points manually to create a spark from the end of the coil wire (if you aren't careful, you'll get a jolt too). Of course, the engine/rotor has to be turned so the points are closed to start with, but that's easy to do by tugging on the fan belt or using the starter motor. You can watch the points to see that they open and close as they ride on the distributor cam face. While they are open, you should be able to measure the 6 volts from the coil. If you don't get a spark jumping from the coil wire when you open the points, then they need attention/cleaning/adjusting. By doing this test, you can check out everything except the rotor and high voltage distributor cap functions. Normally the rotor and cap will work fine if dry and carefully seated in the proper position.

Since you say that your 8N runs great once it starts, I'd be that if you get everything clean and dry, you won't even have to do the "experiments" above.

Great write up, i did not know if he had a multimeter, or tester.In answer to the points, my distributor really needed bushings or rebuilding. The pertronox is available in 6 volt or 12 volt, just cannot believe the spark that unit generates...with out any bushings or wear plates.. My generator had failed, and yes the igniton switch was gone. I use an 20 amp toggle switch, if they want it ,then take it, no key.But look out for the dog.. I really hate to part with mine , had it since 1981. Might spring for the new alloy carburator, but it was about $150.00. Now have Kubota, just to help the Ford.....JY.

 

[Soundguy]

Yes, it all depends on how long you want to work on it each time .. I really ignored the iron carburator that rusts up, or if you leave gas too long, clabbors solid inside.My distributor was worn out, and needed points about every other few hours.We both did not mention the condensor, which helps the spark. Plus check the wiring directly to the distiributor, and the tiny rubber insulator that protects the wiring there.But< I still stick by my cure, to prevent hours of Tinkering each time you need it...Plus I turn the gas off and run it out each time..Jy.

sorry... i'm with rick.

FIX what's wrong with it.. then maintain it like it's suposed to be and it will be fine.

I have plenty of tractors on 6v.. I change their oil and do -AT MOST- yearly maintenance on them.. like cleaning bat terminals, checking wireing.. and sometimes cleaning and gapping points. there are many times this becomes a once per two or three year interval.

can't remember the last set of points I changed that simply wore out after i installed them...I've got plenty of sets that are going on a decade of use..

LEARN to maintain a machine.. it's easier than retrofitting it.

soundguy

 

[Soundguy]

another thing to do is pull the spark plugs and check their condition.. look for fouling.

if they are more than a couple years old.. or fouled.. splurge for a new set.

spark plug wires should be metalic core.. not resistor wires.

i like a hot plug like an al437.. though the oem range like an h10 should be fine in an otherwise good system.

once you get electrical out of the way, if it still hard starts.. we can look at fuel and compression..

soundguy