1965 Ford 3000 Starter Problems

[Bharris246]

Hello! First time posting... Just purchased a Ford 3000 tractor a couple of months ago. Ran fine no problems since purchasing. Problems started when kids were playing on in and left ignition key on and drained battery. Replaced battery still did not start, only heard a click. Figured it must be starter had it checked and replaced still nothing. Then replaced starter solenoid and just today was able to get started but it contiued to run even after turning off ignition and removing key. Removed - battery cable to stop running. After reconnecting I am back to square one. Just a clicking noise.

In trying to start, the starter did seem to be continuosly cranking even after I stopped turning the key. I am guessing the new starter is probably burned up but cant figure out why it continued to run after turning off and removing the key especially after replacing solenoid.

Any help?

Thanks!

 

[banjodunn]

G'day check all your leads for good contact inc the ground, low voltage can cause a starter to hang in and continue cranking, sometimes a tap on the solenoid is enough to free them otherwise you may have to strip the starter as the contacts in the solenoid may have welded themselves together
BTW Welcome to TBN

Jon

 

[kjung17]

Had a similar situation on JD 4020. Customer had installed a new starter. New starter would not disengage. Customer thought it was electrical. Checked system, found no problems. Loosened starter and moved it away from the flywheel (just taking up the slack in the holes), tightened it down and the problem went away. Couldn't have moved it more than .015". Darn the friction.:thumbsup:

 

[gregsons]

I just got ride of a ford 3500 that had the same problem. I replace the starter due to the issue and then went there all the wireing well most of it. after pealling off about 2.5 miles of electric tape i thought i found the bad wire. put it all back and found a few days later that i didnt fix it. some days it would fire up some days it wouldnt . someday the starter would continue to crank, someday it would work.
When ever the starter continued to crank i would just pull the terminal off the battery.

PUt a charger on the battery get a tester and go threw the wires one by one. i would start up at the ing. and work my way back to the starter. its a long slow job.

I also found a second lead of the back of the starter that went to the regulater . could not understand why it was there, unhooked it and that helped alot with the battery drain, but didnt solve it .

The ford i was working on was a lost cause so i didnt wana was too much time on it hope that s not the one you bought lol

 

[Bharris246]

Thanks for feedback and suggestions. I did replace some of wiring (battery cables, 4 post solenoid - starter cable, and wire from 4 post solenoid - ignition coil) their are two other wires I have not replaced:
1) From back post of solenoid to ignition (I think)
2) Another that is on main post of solenoid tied in with + terminal from battery (not sure where that goes?)

Should have good connections but have not tested.

Will try and move starter back a bit as well. Should I just put a washer between starter and frame?

Anyone think I should try replacing Ignition switch while checking ignition wire?

Thanks for all the help! Still learning

 

[Patches]

Not sure if this is a related problem or not; we bought a 4000 Ford with similar issues. On the firewall, just above and to the right of the starter solenoid you'll find a black box with a bunch of wires going to it;all saftey switches function through this box. Looking at the two wires on the right, one comes from the ignition switch, the other goes to the starter solenoid. The original owner had replaced the starter, starter solenoid, ignition switch and some wiring; we found these connections corroded and loose. Cleaning them up and tighening the connections by squeezing the female blade connectors cured the problem. If it could only be that simple for you :thumbsup:

 

[Bharris246]

Not sure if this is a related problem or not; we bought a 4000 Ford with similar issues. On the firewall, just above and to the right of the starter solenoid you'll find a black box with a bunch of wires going to it;all saftey switches function through this box. Looking at the two wires on the right, one comes from the ignition switch, the other goes to the starter solenoid. The original owner had replaced the starter, starter solenoid, ignition switch and some wiring; we found these connections corroded and loose. Cleaning them up and tighening the connections by squeezing the female blade connectors cured the problem. If it could only be that simple for you :thumbsup:

Is that the voltage regulator? Thanks!

 

[Patches]

No, it's not the voltage regulator; the name of the control escapes me, but it's a control box through which all safeties are wired. If you're standing on the left side of the tractor, looking at the starter and follow the large battery cable up from the starter, you'll find the starter solenoid. Follow the light gauge(18 or 16)from the solenoid back towards the ignition switch and I believe you'll find it runs to this "box". The wires are connected to this control box via blade connectors. These are where we found our troubles; loose and corroded. As mentioned earlier, we simply removed the connectors one at a time, so as to not mix them up, cleaned the corrosion and tightened up the female side of the connection, which is on the wire. Perhaps your 3000 is different from the 4000, but I would be quite surprised if it is

 

[Bharris246]

Ok, it has been a long winter and I am finally heading back out to try and fix this problem.:thumbsup:

Since last post I have taken the new starter off and taken to get tested and it is fried. Luckily, it was warrantied and I have another but do not want to put it on and fry it again. So after taking off starter again, I have found another wire from ignition (I think), to the ignition coil that was in very bad shape. I am goin to replace that wire but am wondering if there is any chance there could be a problem with the coil and causing the starter to contiously crank.

Only other things I can think of are voltage regulator or ignition switch. But the switch doesnt stick and after replacing solenoid again I only hear the clicking sound.

Just looking for any other advice before I try and start again. Starters aren't cheap!!!

Thanks!

 

[Soundguy]

No, it's not the voltage regulator; the name of the control escapes me, but it's a control box through which all safeties are wired. If you're standing on the left side of the tractor, looking at the starter and follow the large battery cable up from the starter, you'll find the starter solenoid. Follow the light gauge(18 or 16)from the solenoid back towards the ignition switch and I believe you'll find it runs to this "box". The wires are connected to this control box via blade connectors. These are where we found our troubles; loose and corroded. As mentioned earlier, we simply removed the connectors one at a time, so as to not mix them up, cleaned the corrosion and tightened up the female side of the connection, which is on the wire. Perhaps your 3000 is different from the 4000, but I would be quite surprised if it is

on a 4000 about all you have is a vreg and v-stab.

not many safety switches except a trans neutral switch.. and that's it.

to the op.

I'd change yer points and coil, and make sur ethe resistor wire tot he coil is in place.

if the solenoid has not been changed.. change it.. weak batteries make solenoids weld contacts.

repalce the switch as well.. dirty contacts can cause the starter to run on.

does this have the stock genny or an alternator conversion. if a conversion is it a 1 wire or 3 wire 10/12SI delco or a different unit like a externally regulated 10DN delco or motorolla?

did you clean up the crond cable to chassie / starter connection good?

soundguy